Technical 54 WCFB woes and my incompetence

Would a carburetor problem cause "timing breakup"?

A Jegs article says weak valve springs will lower the mechanical ability of an engine to rev, and make popping noises. I don't know how to explain the difference in RPMs when it loses power.

But, again, as I understand what you said, the primary circuit only allowed it to rev to 2700, then 3700 before it lost power. How do you explain that when you're mostly suspecting the secondary circuit?

 

I glad you ruled out the timing chain and gears on that old engine

 

It is useful to realize that everything suffers from wear in a high milage engine.
It is very likely to be a combination of a few problems.
That makes it harder to nail down, and why most people end up opting for a rebuild.

 

I like the idea of testing the carburetor on the Ford 300, if plausible. Would the lower flow (CFM) prevent the 300 from revving higher than the 331 does? It seems that an adapter made from wood, plastic, or aluminum might work, and not take too long to make. And/or make an adapter for the 300 carb to the 331?

 

That's quite true.

 

Gene-Koning provided an explanation in his post #256. See my post #286 I added another step.

 

I’m curious about the design of the ”****” carb adaptor.

 

That’s a great idea! It should still rev though, maybe not as fast. It would be a quick way to know if it is carb or not. That way you could for sure get past one issue and either pursue it or put it to bed. Call it a generic test bed!

 

I think the red/bold above is the cause of a lot of misunderstanding and faulty communication in this thread.
Some folks are quoting numbers seen with a timing light, some may be referring to numbers displayed on a distributor machine. They are not the same.
Maybe we should specifiy crank or distributor degrees when discussing timing.

 

They beat me to it, Distributor degrees are half of what crank degrees are, so your 12 is really 24 at the crank.

And your dual point distributor is designed for two sets. Each set should have 26-28 degrees of dwell and together should be 32-36 total. One set, as explained already is a little advanced, the other a little retarded. THEY ARE NOT a primary, and one back up set, they work together for a longer dwell time.

To get the longer dwell, they doubled up two shorter sets and spaced them out. Depending on what set you are running, you are advanced or retarded.

Does it matter all that much?

You should be able to run one set as long as the timing is right and you have the correct dwell, it would be no different the compensating for a slack timing chain. It will run, but won't be ideal.

 

spark lead https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-1207-guide-to-early-hemi-engines-part-2/

 

You both make excellent points I should have realized that. I completely left it out of the discussion. I will correct my posts for accuracy.

 

He claims the timing chain is in good condition. I don't buy it. He should rotate the crank one direction until the rotor turns , mark the dampner, rotate it back until it moves again, mark the dampner, count the crankshaft deg. and divide by 2. That should give an indication of how bad the chain is.

 

The entertainment boost has been excellent. I feel the outcome will be a loose threaded tip on a spark plug or something of that nature. The fix will never be posted and Mr Kitchen will vanish, never to be heard from again.

 

OK thread open. First question although I am still going by the books. My part number is 1AZ – 4001C.

This distributor is not listed in my book which goes 55 to 62. But I am setting it to the specifications in notation number three just like it says for all of those different distributor part numbers.

My coil ohmed out to 1.1 and after a second or two 1.2 ohms, but more time on 1.1. My new backup coil is the same readings. The secondary winding is 5.15 ohm on both terminals, and the new coil is 8.58 ohms on the inner windings.

hints or advice?

 

Excellent so it’s exact same specifications that makes me happy

 

What are the question. When his car came in the shop in the old school days to check the dwell did they remove the Insert a piece of paper and check it while I need to individual points or did they check the dwell altogether with both points still working to be between 32 and 36?

 

You would set them separate.

 

I believe someone mentioned doing one set at a time a few pages back, I may be mis remembering though

 

Dammit, I deleted the wrong post

 

Back in the days one would pull the cap to inspect it and all components inside the distributor.

 

I get what you’re saying now. It would seem to me that if your total number was correct that them being lopsided or uneven between the two sets could affect how it acts?

your getting 34 but maybe it’s 30 and 4 not 17 and 17.

hopefully that made some since.

To your question, I have no idea but pulling the cap off to look doesn’t seem like an extreme measure?

 

OK deposit just got deleted had a great picture of my 34 1/4° of dwell which is plenty according to the book. My idol vacuum is 21, my idol timing is spot on 4°.

And when I was asking earlier that I ignorantly the deleted, because my phone was in catching up to itself was.

You guys are misunderstanding my question. When I go to Texas car to a shop to get checked out, they don’t bend over the car and go through the firewall and take apart. The distributor cap measure the gaps on the points they measure the dwell first and then if there’s issues with runnability, that’s when they check the points physically. I set both of my point gap .017 and I’m getting 34.25° I could drop them down to .016 and I could probably get 36° but I’m not really concerned about that until after I see some replies.

 

You’re almost where I was talking about Tim lol I definitely don’t have 4° on one and 17 on the other. I know exactly where my points are set because I set them by hand with a distributor on the bench. And my dwell was 34 1/4 which should be sufficient once this car warms up. But I had to leave for a meeting and I’ll be back at seven.

 

See post 305 (Sargentlethargic) !
Ya need to figger-out how to 'prove' the carb ! Put it on another engine with a home-made adapter or something.
Ya seem to have beat the electrical to death AND the timing chain question.
It cranks very easily...it idles very nice.....it just won't take the fuel when its mashed.
Sounds like a carb issue fer sure.
6sally6

 

I'm trying to figure how a timing chain affects TDC as you said Gary. Explain it. And 50deg total timing isWAY out of the ballpark .Lippy