Technical 54 WCFB woes and my incompetence

Again, apologies to Gary for adding confusion late last night. It should have dawned on me that the timing specifications in Anthony’s manual were listed in degree’s at the distributor. That’s what I get for being too ****y sometimes. You’d think I’d learn. Hopefully the rest of these guy’s will keep my *** in line.

 

Hey Lippi, search the HAMB for the words 331 timing or look at my link that I linked that article to everybody on there talking about 50° and 50° that. That’s where I got it from right here on this same site anyhow I’m not there anymore thinking about 50°. I’m listening to what you guys are saying.

 

Oh, and there’s another thing lippy, I am going to measure the timing chain slack because it’s driving you insane but give me a while cause I have to take off the radiator fan shroud in order to do it

 

It's not driving me crazy YOU said the timing chain effects TDC, How? The timing marks are on the crank and tab. How does the chain change that. TDC is TDC. Read your posts. Just trying to help.

 

Port Orchard, Wash...........where they made The Goonies ?!
(Sorry for the detour)
6sally6

 

Again, this is really getting interesting. And again, this image is inserted purely as a bit of humor, to keep tempers from flaring out of control.
Enjoy from Dennis.

 

Set the points 16-19 check the dwell ,put the initial timing to factory rpm and specs, then plug in the vacuum advance and leave it alone. JMO. And listen to Mark. Lippy

 

TDC ,in most instances , does not refer only to crank position but to cam /valve timing as well which , of course,involves ignition timing ( since its cam driven)

 

Piston TDC. Im saying When #1 is at TDC it's at TDC no matter where the cam is he had a post where he said the cam and chain effected TDC. It doesn't! Valve timing and ignition timing may be affected by the chain being loose or whatever but TDC is TDC.

 

Bought this big caddy for a couple hundred bucks. Complete with trans and pulled. Previous owner replaced wires, coil, plugs, cap…… couldn’t get the “sputter” out of it.

 

I'm surprised it sputtered at all. LOL

 

oh hell, no, I’m not falling for that **** I’m doing exactly by the book until by the book doesn’t work lol and then we’ll see what happens

I know all about cam, timing and crank timing and how everything works. now chill out with your replies, while I get the slope of the chain measured so it will appease some of yall

 

Fella's Im sorry but I had a six hour round of Chemo today and it's been fun trying to follow this thread but it;s been fun but I'm done. See you on another thread.

 

Good luck to you Gary. Lippy

 

Cranked ok. Idled ok.
But that’s about it

 

Here’s your chain slop measurement. I measure about 14 degrees between the to spots, could be closer to 12.

and y’all think that this slop is causing the car to flatline whenever the secondaries are open?

well I’m going to put it to the test. We will see.

 

12/14 degrees of crank rotation before the rotor moves?

 

That’s what it looks like to me. I had some help looking at the rotor as I was trying to move the engine with the fan and holding the belts cause I’m not about to take the front end off again I put a mark and I moved it and he said stop it I stopped. I put another mark it’s about 12 to 14°.

 

Probably about right for an almost worn out engine.
Unofficial internet slack consensus seems to be that 7-10 is replacement time.

 

LOL! I was in Auto shop that period!

 

I'm sorry to hear that lippy, I hope you get well.

 

OK 2100. RPMs is exactly 16° in this distributor. I’m going to run the damn thing and check if it pops and find the max where is currently sitting at 4° and 511 rpm. All in is 41.5 degrees at 2500.

there’s a tiny bit of popping in the secondaries as you get up to about 3000 to 3500 RPM but it pulls constantly and pushes that car down the road just like it was brand new almost lol 3/4 throttle this thing is absolutely spot on.

so I wanna say thank you to everybody that prove to me that these Protonix can’t go to ship without feeling because once everything is dialed back into the regular points and the jet settings I fixed it is just a beast again regardless of the sloppy timing chain and 101,000 miles

 

This is correct. To find "True" TDC you need a piston stop a degree wheel (a graduated harmonic dampener will get you very close) and a pointer.

position the stop so the #1 piston does not reach to top of the stroke.
then rotate the crankshaft one direction until the piston hits the stop.
mark the wheel.
rotate the crankshaft the opposite direction until the piston hits the stop again.
mark the wheel.
count the number of degrees between the marks and divide by 2.
rotate the crankshaft back that number of degrees

That is true TDC.

The camshaft timing is separate and can be phased to relative to TDC depending on the application.

 

Glad you finally got some where now. Yea, that timing chain is on its way out. Better prepare her for a rebuild in the future.

 

Wait... so we are calling it a best effort win?

 

Ya chain is no bueno.

 

That stuff will need to come anyways for a new timing set.

 

No Gary, wait........... I think you could be right. It is definitely a carb problem. Logic says so......

I've just got one question. How did you manage to get the thread re-opened ???

 

So is it fixed and installing points fixed it?

 

The last three posts I put up did not show up because I was not in an area that they would come through. I’m just gonna tell you guys that thank you. It was the pertronix after all including the two small of carburetor jets. Right now I can take the throttle to the floor and it will pull up to about 4500 RPMs where I want it to no longer pole and it shifts nicely. Everything is going to be copacetic with this car, because it no longer falls flat on its face!

it breaks up at about 4140 200 RPMs, but it shifts much earlier than that. It pulls strongly up to the shift five and that’s all I wanted was a carburetor and ignition system that would work smoothly through full throttle into second gear.

so, according to the logic, everything about that Petronas was wrong, and once I fitted the dual points in it, and set the Dwelle to between 29 and 32 for the both, which is a very smooth .017 on each set of points, everything words as it should from idle up to the shifting of second gear. I don’t care if it goes 130 miles an hour or 95 miles an hour and all of the legal parameters this person will drive it. The car will perform perfectly regardless of the stretched *** timing chain, and everybody saying that the valves are bouncing, etc. cause they’re not doing it now. and it was all about the damn electronic ignition failing and the too small of jet sixes combined with it.