Technical 54 WCFB woes and my incompetence

Gary, I’v read every post on both threads
You sound like the smartest guy in these threads
that being said
forget about logic (to many variables to be concise)
for troubleshooting you only need the pure simple facts
your logic seams to me is based on ***umptions
sometimes simply replacing parts will get to the promise land
when you solve this puzzle, you will see the logic

One other item I do not recall reading
with regards to the pertronics
did you measure the gap on the sensor to rotor?

I also appreciate your resolve and effort

 

I am not the smartest guy in the world, but I like logic to solve issues for me. And I did not read the air gap between the pick up and the Pertronix unit. My brain was too full of **** to even think of something so simple. Not that I could change the air gap because it does not have a sliding scale when it screws down into this particular distributor. I have shopped around and cannot find dual points within two days service of my shop so I’m going to go with a single point and adjust the dwell to 28 and start this bugher and see what happens

 

If it’s a magnetic PU you’ll need a set of br*** feeler gauges.

 

Yes, you are correct budget and I do not have a set of price pick ups, but the unit is already out and I am installing points like the majority has already supported doing

 

This is the type of reply that really turns folks off.
All I can really add, it must be hard for the smartest person in the room to ask for ***istance.

 

For testing=yes.. If you have extras. But, for the parts thrower's, =just throwing a dart......It separates those who know, and those who are willing to listen if you don't...........
Testaduda..........

 

well, if you have noticed, I have done every test that I am able to do with the limited amount of the 1950s tools that I have. And I am putting points back into it at the insistence of people who are convinced that it’s the pertronix unit or something in the ignition. That is failing. This should prove or disprove that and I hope to God that these points take care of that issue

 

I've been following............Hope it come's to fruition, but- I hope you acknowledge who helped with suggestions, and point out who was correct with their diagnoses.

 

Yes. best to install dual points. If one doesn't fix the problem, surely someone will say you needed two sets to get the coil saturation time for a hot enough spark.

 

I’m not a **** bag, of course I will give credit where it’s due. And I’m hoping that ALK the guys that said the pertronix is the issue are correct, and the one guy who mentioned the dwell control of the unit is a likely culprit (due to air gap between magnetic impulses I believe ) that’s gone haywire, because as pertronix themselves say on their site that generals they are a simple work or no work system.

 

Oh I’m aware . A single points set should accomplish this, and I’ll use a dwell meter to get 30 degrees of dwell to the best of my ability. That’s standard dwell time for 69’s and 50’s v8 engines.

 

If I may, you’re not a **** bag, but others are ****heads.

have a nice weekend!

 

Would I have it running by now?
Who knows. Probably would have bought one of these by now. The red one is an @TR Waters product.

My beater is running a carb built by a 16 year old. Traded a quart of paint for it
the other runs a Q.
The pertronix possibility is just that
Symptoms point to a lean issue, ignition issue, possible obstruction issue, or maybe a mechanical issue such as weak valve springs.

You asked for suggestions to fix a carb that you already blue printed.
That leads suggestions back to the other possibilities. The possibility remains it could be neither fuel nor ignition related.

the one non OE variable is the ignition. It left Chrysler running without that variable.
Was the carb ever tested by spraying additional fuel?
Has the carb guru made a diagnosis?

 

My point EXACTLY lol than you for seeing the funny in it. I hate everyone that was right about the issue….
Still not done with distributor, there was no hardware left in it thanks to the pertronix unit.

 

@Gary Kitchens
You now have enough posts as an FNG to post an ad on the HAMB.
Post a want ad for a new carb and distributor.

 

It’s not “funny” what you have said, in fact it’s demeaning.

 

You obviously missed a couple of other demeaning quotes pointed at me, but that’s OK.

I never claimed to be the smartest guy, I only wanted one or two people to explain ‘how’ sometimes could be broken in a system that the makers say is a work or fail unit. Not really any better between, until that someone actually DID make a great point about the dwell! THAT alone gave me confidence in his statement.
What doesn’t give me confidence is statement that simply say something is bad, without even attempting to explain why.

therein lies the reason for my stubbornness.

this one ant an insult? Lol you guys are funny. I said **** talkers, in an endearing way, because they kept trying to help through my stubbornness. But the smartest guy in the room doesn’t keep asking for answers to his questions seeking logical explanations. And that what I continue to do when my brain freezes up, I didn’t measure the air gap for the pertronix because it totally slipped my mind, and the set screw allows no deviation in its placement.

so that brings us to the conclusion of the pertronix….

my distributor is in the points are in the Dwele is 31° and the timing is 4°. The idle speed is 603 RPM now let’s see if you guys were right and I pray that you are cause I’m really tired of this car.!

 

Just an fyi.
This should be the dwell on the dual point for the hemi

 

[drum roll]

 

Gosh I give up on etiquette.
I haven’t missed a thing. You however speak like , well, nevermind.

But consider this (earlier thread as well as this one) when asking for ***istance, why should anyone tell you a flaw in your logic? Some have, but you didn’t get (in your mind) a logical reply, so you discounted those thoughts and ideas because “you can’t show me where I am incorrect “ or similar.

 

Thank you Anthony it is in my motors manual throttle dual both says 34,36 1AZ – 4001C total both sets 32/36.

but I am only running one set and I won’t get a new one for several days because I have to buy the dang things off of eBay.

The car will now rev to 3800 RPMs through a bit of stumbling, but it gets there, and it still falls flat on his face with the secondaries. So I gained progress, but not enough to open the secondary.. maybe this is where a set of .064 rear jets would come in handy.

the Points run cleaner for than the pertronix by 1000 rpm! I’m STOKED! next step is the new replacement coil going in because I can’t test their output with my tools. If the results are identical, I’m going to lean back towards air fuel mixture rather than ignition, but will reserve full judgement for the day the second set of points gets installed.

thank you for not giving up on my bull headedness!

 

Budget, I cannot apologize enough if you guys get offended that I am not paying everybody the kudos, they feel they deserve. And I don’t think it’s wrong for me to ***ume I could get a good counter argument rather than just the statement that this part is bad without at least trying to tell me why it’s bad like one person did.

Now I’m sure that somebody’s gonna say that because there’s only one set of points in it, the dwell is 31° I’m gonna eliminate the coil NOW, and that second set of points in a few days when they come in because I believe that you guys are walking me down the correct path. If I cannot articulate my appreciation, I apologize sincerely. But I won’t be **** talked to because I haven’t **** talked to anyone else. Except in jest because many of you have been correct.

now onward to the brand new ignition coil to see what happens

 

One last thing on etiquette I’ve been a member of health forums for over 22 years and I always explained the best of my ability. Why something doesn’t work the way somebody thinks it should. I never just say it doesn’t work. Try this without a good explanation. Maybe that’s just me But that’s the way I work so I expect others to work similarly and maybe that is my problem. But I do not have a chip on my shoulder. I swear!

 

No change with a new coil same parameters as it was the original one, so I’m gonna put the original one back in. Now I’m going to relax watch a bunch of Netflix take care of my mom’s insulin and meds and relax for the rest of the night, I can’t do anything else until the other half of the points get here.

Might I inquire as to how to set the dwell on dual points? The book says each set 26 to 28 with a total develop offsets at 32 to 36. How do I read each set individually with only one coil powering both points?
My primary points gap for the only points that are in it right now is .017.

 

I think they used to insert a matchbook cover in 1 set while adjusting the other.

 

I believe you said that the engine lost power with the primary "****erflies" being the only ones open and with the secondaries being the only ones open. It seems to me that you might want to try doing that again, now that the Pertronix ignition is removed.

 

No one is or has asked for kudos for their reply, but if you go back to your first thread, and read through this one and pretend it’s someone’s else’s problem you are trying to ***ist with, then read the replies that the OP has given. OP would not be you in this instance, you would be like me following along.

 

Dwell is the amount of angle the distributor turns and the points stay closed. I know how to set the dwell by estimate using the points gap. But I don’t know how to do it for two sets with a dwell meter only working on one coil.


Back when I was a kid I used to open up all the points on my car is July 22- 25,000 because I thought you got a hotter spark from that. I didn’t realize that the hotter spark came from the coil ability to build up energy while the points are closed.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...o-set-gap-on-a-dual-point-distributor.459917/
http://www.panteraplace.com/page16.htm#:~:text=To set the dwell, disconnect,total dwell of 34 degrees.
Now, I’m no expert on this.
I picked up a dwell meter recently, plus have one I bought years ago but never used. The subject came up last year here.
I plan to set the dwell on my next points set up. It’s a single.

 

I am packing up to walk away for the night. I just realized that I was only running at mechanical vacuum plus my initial four so that’s right at 30° because I forgot to hook up my vacuum line like a retard whose brain has been overworked. So tomorrow morning I’m going to run the test again after. Warm the car up.

earlier today someone showed shock that I mentioned that was running 41 to 43° of full timing. And then adding the timing together in the book gave me numbers that would probably coincide with their shock seeing 4° at idle and the distributor specifications, and the motors manual says the advance starts 1° at 375 RPMs, 12° at 1725 RPMs with the added 11° of the vacuum at 17 hg’s . This thing should be running fast at 26° advance.

but that is not the way this distributor works because the max mechanical advance on this distributor has been verified at 26° bringing my all in at 30, and then add the 11 1/2° of advance for a total of 41 1/2°. If there is a necessity to limit this, let me know. If not, then I’m happy with it.