Yeah OJ, got rid of the shop truck to make a bit more room to work, will also help out in making space for the upcoming Peter Tommasini class at the shop..
Wow! Peter Tommasini? THE Peter Tommasini? He is an incredible metalshaper, isn't he from Australia or thereabouts? Whens he coming to your shop? Doing a workshop? Sorry about asking so many questions, they just kinda popped up.
OJ, yes THE Peter Tommasini. He will be here Oct 1-4 for a metalshaping class. I think Nashville area was as far east as he came in his US tour last year, so I wanted to get him out here in Mid Atlantic. Had the classes posted in MD and VA social forums.. Still openings in other classes, check metalmeet for details.
Get some messages on occasion asking about fixing oil cans on sheet metal, so I thought I'd share some ideas.... I've seen on far too many automotive forums that any request for help dealing with an oil can invariably generates a response to pick up the shrinking disc, despite no detailed information given besides "I have an oil can" Before I suggest to someone how to fix an oil can, it is best to find out what kind of oil can you are dealing with, first and foremost. I consider there are two kinds, a tight oil can and a loose oil can, each will require a different method of repair. Tight oil can: This is almost exclusively caused by body damage, whether a dent, glancing crease, or media blast damage, and is especially noted by displaced metal that will oil can when considerable pressure is applied, and may or may not forcibly spring back. When the body damage occurs, it stretches the panel throughout the dent or crease. A typical dent, whether straight in or a glancing blow, will have direct and indirect damage. The direct damage goes inward, stretching the panel as it goes. The indirect damage, is a much lesser amount of springback, compounded by the internal stretch pushing outward circumferentially, and you will see an outward bulge around the perimeter of the dent/damage. Although the initial inclination may be to shrink this outward bulge, for the most part this adjacent area is relatively damage free, it is mainly being spread outward by the stretch forcing outward. Shrinking the center damage will start the process of relieving the stresses pushing outward, relaxing some of the bulge surrounding the dent. After a bit of shrinking, using the shot bag against the outside of the crease/dent and some light taps with a flat body hammer or slapper from the inside will help to start manipulating the crease/dent back into it's original place. I would add that too much shrinking all at once may give you the loose oil can, so profile templates are highly recommended as they work well to let you see how the panel is reacting so you don't go too far too quick. Tight oil can, part two: Where some tight oil cans from dents may be challenging to determine where to start your shrinking (if it doesn't have an obvious sharp crease to show where to work from) the following process will normally find the area that needs shrinking.... Cycle the oil can in and out a couple times in order to find the outer perimeter. If it helps to mark it with some painters tape, a sharpie, so be it, use whatever works. Now using your thumb from one hand apply slight pressure on a point on this perimeter. Use the other hand to cycle the oil can again, using the same pressure as before. Keep moving your pressure point around the perimeter and cycle the oil can for each spot until you get to a point on the perimeter where the pressure will keep the oil can from cycling, it locks it from moving. This should identify your "sweet spot" that needs shrinking, and there may be more than one sweet spot Loose oil can: This is typically caused by welding, over-eager torch shrinking, or shrinking something when you should have stretched, (or fatigue over the many years that has caused a larger panel/hood to settle). Any panel will shrink from heat, causing the crown to draw in from the surrounding area. This is especially noted by a loose, easily flopped back and forth oil can. This is fixed by stretching, typically in the area of the weld and HAZ. Loose oil can part two: In some cases we'll see that a dent (or tight oil can) has actually caused a loose oil can in the outer reaches in the adjacent area. The direct force (dent) may have caused displacement of the inherent stresses of the panel (crown) such that it pulled at the adjacent metal elsewhere, resulting in a loose oil can outside the area of the dent. Here the loose oil can should be left alone and focus on removing the stretched area (dent) that moved the panel. Once the dent is removed, this action alone should correct the loose oil can in the adjacent area.
Well there has been a slight break in the updates, as I've been in Okinawa for about a month. Not to fear, Kyle has been plugging away on the wagon, it even has a floor in it, as you can see here... He did get a quite a bit of blocking done while I was gone.... And did get some wet sanding done on a few of the interior trim pieces. Today he started on the rear floor, part of the problem with welding a flat plate is that it doesn't stay flat. The plug welds to secure the floor to the bracing beneath caused some shrinking, which resulted in the metal between bulging outward, some up, some down. Looks about like the Atlantic on a calm day. Today, as I was going to be wet sanding, he was going to try some torch shrinking. To better make this a one person job with minimal risk of open flame, we thought to give the "electric" torch a go. The plastic dust pan served as a tray to hold the wet rag, keeping it in closer proximity to where it was needed and attempt to limit the amount of water elsewhere. The results showed quite an improvement, and it's in need of some bumping at this point.. But alas, the gas tank is in the way, so we will likely get the body back on the rotisserie here soon in an effort to get the remaining prep prior to paint completed. Meanwhile, I was wet sanding and couldn't find the squeegee, so a trip to the local Ace Hardware at lunch, and we had a replacement. Works well, and no metal hardware on this new one to add any scratches.... Exterior of the hood is about done...
The last time we removed the car from the frame we used two engine hoists, which proved to be a bit cumbersome and a pain to get the frame rolled out. So I thought to try something different, this time an engine hoist at the front, and a winch in the back. Needing an anchor point for the winch, I welded this up last night to span two of the shop's trusses from overhead.... Rear lift eyes use the tailgate hinge nut plates... Front lifting eyes bolt to the hinge mounts on the firewall... We have lift-off! The frame has a bit of welds left to do and we can clean it up and get it to the powder coaters... Dana helping out tonight... One way to clean it out... Here's the framework added to support the fuel tank and rear floor.. This shows how nice access is for prepping, works equally well in painting..
Saving wear and tear on the compressor?... Todays progress, we've had to move the frame a couple times and it becomes a chore to steer, so a 1" bolt was modified with a home made steering wheel. Works well, good thing there's no weight on the front end! ....and Kyle's been busy getting the bare metal prepped for epoxy.. Picked up some stump blanks last night to have some extra stations for the upcoming metalshaping class... This afternoon, Debarking with a draw knife... Kyle took over as I used the chain saw to cut some to length... This one is about all the JD bucket could stand.. ....and some Talstar to take care of any remaining ant domiciles.
We're checking this week with a local machine shop to see if we can get the body media blasted... should be a much quicker prep for the epoxy.. In the meantime, the downside to plug welds and mig welds.... cleaning up all those welds.. Kyle working on more welds.. ...and to get ready for the Tommasini class next week, we put all the 55 parts away in the paint booth...
Generally, when people ask the "wouldn't you love to be a kid again" question, my answer is "hell no! I was lucky to have lived through the first time." But if I could go back thirty years, I'd want to be your intrepid assistant Kyle. What an opportunity to learn such a high level of skills, one on one with a master craftsman, at such a young age. I think many are curious - what is Kyles background, and how did he come to be your apprentice?
Kyle's father (Ken) and I were in middle and high school together, he had a 57 Ford pickup that he drove through high school. Ken stopped by one of our yard sales last fall and asked about getting the pickup back in shape. He was curious how full my schedule was, as his son wanted to get it fixed up and back on the road. I kept telling him I had a full schedule out about two years, but he kept persisting. Finally I relented, and said what I needed more than anything was an extra hand in the shop, and if Kyle was willing to learn, I would teach him what I could where he should be able to do any repairs himself, or would help him where needed. Ken liked that option, brought Kyle over the next day (Sunday) to check out the shop and the work I was doing. He started that week and has been helping out since.. Sure have been getting more accomplished with him in the shop. I think he's going to bring the 57 over during the Peter Tommasini class this week coming, he plans to make the repair panels for the back of the bed below the tail lights. We'll be sure and get some pictures...
That is really great of you to take in a youngster with such a full schedule Robert. And it looks as though he is a pretty quick study based on what you've shared with us. Thanks again for some great lessons in craftsmanship and generosity.
Thanks! Getting ready for the metal shaping class at the shop this week, picked up Peter today from the airport. Last night Kyle and I made a pedestal for some home-made stake anvils using a couple 45 lb dumbbells and some pipe/tubing, tonight made the round-head anvil and another with a holder for press brake dies.... .....and stopped by the upholstery shop this morning to get another shot bag stitched up... Counting the hours!
Maybe you'll teach that dude somethin' too ... hell, he may be sweeping your floors teach' !! Have a great weekend Robert. Wish you had a Texas spot .... would love to be there.
I truly believe, there is a long list of fellow Hamb'rs, who will be sad to see all this fantastic metal work covered by paint. Thanks so much, for sharing this build. Floor reinforcements are very cool. JT
Thanks for the kind words, but I for one will sure be glad to have that painting done.... A few of the projects showed up this evening for the class, more to come tomorrow.... One of the attendees brought a CP hammer for us to use... I'm going to have to get Peter here more often, forces me to clean up the place!
Here are some of the highlights of today's class.... Peter shows how to prepare a stump for shrinking.... Discussing weld location in panel forming.... Using magnets to hold a paper pattern for layout.... Wheeling, tuck shrinking and annealing aluminum sheet... Capturing the tuck and shrinking on aluminum sheet Blocking and wheeling our 19 gauge steel fender panel... Forming the rear corner for a Model A.. Blocking on the sand bags and shrinking on the stump.... Wheeling....
Dave, I was unsuccessful in my arm twisting... Here's some of today's class projects. The start of a scooter fender... Test fit of a fender panel... Copper work, trash can taking shape... Paper pattern on a roadster quarter panel.... Using the blocking hammer to pre-stretch Making a pattern for the dies Making a pattern of luan board for a divider offset in trimming the top edge.. What happens when a metal shaper gets around wood products... Trimming and filing up the top edge.... On to the Lennox....
Thanks! Project updates for todays class: Wiring top edge of the copper trash can.. Roadster quarter, making dies for the upper bead detail.... Sharpening the crease A bit of shrinking.... Test fit... Marking for trimming the wheel opening... Inside radius backstop Scooter fender... Trimming... Prepping for Sport Coupe door skin removal We took a short break for a Maryland treat... of course, using only the correct utensils.... Blocking the top section of the roadster quarter.....
Final update of the class, pictures from yesterday. Wheeling door skin for a sport coupe: Annealing copper wire to use as rivets: Cover plate for military vehicle: Paper pattern Tuck shrinking on post dolly Forming upper quarter reverse Wheel opening bead detail added Tipping flange with vise grips with jaws that have been smoothed... Stretching Loading stumps for the journey to their new home.. This class has been a blast, Peter is a wealth of knowledge and experience, and we are honored to have him share and pass this on to others. Anxiously looking forward to next year!
I have some hearing protection that was left behind from this weekend, if one of the class participants would like to claim them.....
The Jalopy Journal
