Hey guys I’m having some play in my front end and I believe it’s the shaft from the steering box that goes thru the frame that holds the pitman arm. I know there’s a couple adjustments on the box. But I’m not really sure how to adjust it. I was told it’s very rare that these boxes go bad. So maybe a adjustment is all I need. Anyway have a how to on how to tighten this box up? Or what I can try to fix this issue. I’m having some play when I Jack the truck up and wiggle the wheel side to side. Looks like it’s coming from the shaft. No play up and down on the wheel. Thank you guys
if the shaft is moving from side to side, then it's most likely the pitman shaft bushings in the steering box are worn. You can adjust the screw on the other side of the box, but that won't really fix the problem. Those bushings are usually worn, and will make the steering a little loose. used to be you could go to the local Chevy dealer and buy new bushings...they're a bit harder to find now. The rebuild kits from the truck places include a lot of other parts that you usually don't need. but you can buy just the bushings and seal. You also need the gasket, but you can make that pretty easily. https://oldchevytrucks.com/me297.html
Do you have any info on how to install these? Or rebuild this box. So I need those 2 bushings and the seal and then also need a gasket? That’s all
^^^^^^^^ That will replace the parts most likely to wear. Has instruction book on how it's done. I've done my car and brothers truck. If you can replace wheel bearings, you can do this too.
I would see what Lee has for you. There boxes are not cheap but they are so nice. The steering box is the personality of how the car feels. I bought a Lee 14:1 with a 30 pound valve and its the best I ever had. I never knew a steering box could make such a difference in how a car steers.... The Lee box doesn't have that over assisted feeling. It snaps back to center like a manual and lets you feel the road. But when it comes to parking it assists you in turning the wheel.
First and foremost.... Make sure the box is bolted securely on the frame. I know Ford F1s can loosen. It's been a long time for me (Advance Design 20+ years), the Chevys may bolt from the top while Fords have three bolts through the frame rail. Anyway check and make sure the steering gear is secured to the frame. If the gear is loose on the frame....that is multiplied down the chain. Be careful with adjustment... They can adjust....some. Really the main purpose of the adjustment was to set the preload. Sometimes this gets out and needs to be put back to spec but when a gear box gets worn, all adjusting does is make it harder to turn. This may actually give an illusion of "tighter steering". What's really happening though is the worm gear is being destroyed and box is still loose...it's just harder to turn. Over adjustment can wreck a good worm gear. What could have been fixed with the bushings and shims will now require the hard parts....Be carful adjusting the gear. Get a Shop manual.
The way I adjust is to pick the front wheels off the ground both at the same distance. Then I have somebody turn the steering wheel side to side a few inches. I look for loose linkages. Usually the Drag Link is loose and / or the idler arm.. Then I loosen the lock nut on the box making sure the wheels are perfectly straight. Then I tighten the bolt taking very small turns making the gears mesh together tighter. Just use very small movements. Turn the front wheels by hand feeling how hard it is to move. Once its a little tighter put a box wrench on the nut and a allen wrench on the stud, tighten up the lock nut until its tight. Take it for a spin and notice how it goes back to center after a turn..
On these trucks, the pitman shaft bushings always wear. You can see this by having someone steer the wheel back and forth a little to take up the slop, as you watch the pitman arm. If the pitman arm moves side to side at the top (at the steering gear), then the bushings are worn. Every one of these old trucks I've had has had worn bushings. None of them needed any of the ball or barrel roller bearings replaced...but the kits all include those bearings, that you won't need. You can spend the extra money if you want, but it's not likely that you'll need to replace them. Yes, replacing the bushings is not a simple job, especially if you go to the trouble to replace the short one in the cover plate, where the adjuster is. They don't include a bushing for that (it was never serviced separately by Chevy, you had to buy the whole cover), so you have to cut a long bushing short, and then figure out how to get the old one out (using a cape chisel works). Having or making a bushing driver is something that helps, if you can't do this, it'll be tough. Keep in mind that I like fixing the actual problem, and nothing else, so my way of doing things is a bit unusual. After replacing the bushings, you need to put it all back together, and add the correct amount of the correct lubricant. You can't buy that from Chevy any more either....corn head grease, or 00 grease, or CV joint grease will work, you need something that flows, but does not run, and you don't want too much of it, only about 10 fl oz I think. To get the box out, you need a good pitman arm puller, too. The mounting bolts don't seem to come loose on these, but it is a good thing to check. Instructions for adjusting are found here http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955truck2/55ctsm0901.htm
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