Seems the best way to mount a SBC in a Tri Five is with the side mounts and a transmission crossmember. Do most people remove the old bell housing horns that are mounted on the frame? What is the idea of the 4” forward mounts ? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nothing wrong with the original 4 point mounting. Folks move the engine foreward to install a big block or more dist clearance.
Those 2 small mounts on the front of the motor just don’t seem as strong as the mid mount setup and a transmission crossmember. At that point I don’t see any reason not to remove the bell housing mounts. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have seen it done both ways, but if you have the older stock bell housing, using the standard front mounts and the bellhousing mounts, makes it easier to route the headers, particularly on the LH side. My first swap on this truck, was from the 6 cylinder to the 283, and it was a no brainer. There were no problems with clearances, even the stock exhaust manifolds fit with no issues. I used the truck three speed for the first swap. The placement of the distributor is not a problem, but I don't think you could fit an HEI distributor in with the engine bolted in the stock rear mounts. I have a big block in my 55 now, and I used the original stock mounts on the rear crossmember and the 6 cylinder front mounts. I was running an M21 Muncie, and there were no issues. Even in this installation, the distributor placement was not a problem. Bob
The theory is that front stock mounts and a turbo 400 tail shaft mount will crack bell housings. Stock front mounts with a 4spd and scatter shield mounted with a rear trans mount works fine. those original bell housing mounts tend to sag even when fairly new contributing to cracked distributer caps. The after market side mount kit and a tail shaft mount is a good upgrade you wont regret and I have taken off the chassis bracket on all I hav ever done. It looks cleaner and you have a bigger selection of headers. Pat
When I switched the BB from the M21 to the TH400, I had snubbers on the stock rear mounts, and an added crossmember with a transmission tailshaft mount. I beat the crap out of it and I am still running the same transmission. There is a pattern to make rear transmission mounts that adapt the rear mounts to the bellhousing of TH400. The installation I saw was one where the center of the rear crossmember was cut out, and caps welded on the ends to clean it up. It looked great, and according to the owner, worked well. This is what I will be doing with my new installation, but I will not be cutting crossmember. Bob
Any particular tail shat mount anyone is using or homemade ? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I run the original style front mounts and the stock style cast iron bellhousing. I don't put out tremendous H.P but never had a problem . Those bellhousing mounts are positioned wide and they are strong. just my opinion
Mine is a modified mid 60s Chevy transmission mount. I had to make Vee cuts in it about 5 inches from the centerline to get the proper transmission alignment. Mine is slightly different than Johnny Gee, in that the mount is in the center of the crossmember. Working great since 1980. Bob
Mine is centered as well and!, located lower on cross member. Trans fit's nice as does the exhaust under it.
If you use the front mounts with a rear cross-member only [no side mounts or bellhousing mounts] the engine will "torque over" so torque straps are required. If you want to run headers with side mounts and a rear cross-member it is easier if you remove the old rear frame horns. Moving the engine forward can produce oilpan to draglink issues under full steering lock. a 56-57 oilpan with the deeper length oil pump will remedy this [they are getting pricy] With a Muncie , get a steel scatter-shield and weld tabs on it to mount the side bellhousing mounts and use the stock front mounts. [a rear cross-member is optional and not needed] or for a daily driver just pick up a 55-57 V8 bellhousing and use a 3 bolt starter nose cone[on a normal starter] and the Muncie will bolt up to this . The 6 and V8 use the same side mounts
In my opinion, the original method is best. I have a 350/Muncie 4 speed in mine on original mounts front and bellhousing. Couldn't be any easier.
On the stock rear car mounts I drill a hole horizontal thru both steel halves and the rubber and install a bolt with a esna nut just snug. That works to keep them from sagging or coming apart. Trucks have a thru bolt that comes from the bottom and threads into the bellhousing. There are aftermarket mid engine mounts that allow using a late model auto trans and the stock rear mounts. I guarantee the front pedestal mounts on a tri five are plenty strong and will handle all the HP most engines make. I also commonly install a Torque chain from the frame to a high point on the engine on the drivers side.
In 1958 Chevrolet went to the three point mount on passenger cars. Trucks retained the 4point mounting well into the 60,s The corvette in 58 mounted at the very front of the engine and on the tailshaft of the trans. Nailhead buicks mounted at the front of the engine and tailshaft of the trans. Flathead fords did it also.
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