1952-59 Ford 55 Engine removal

Looked through here but didn't have any luck. Can I pull just the engine, or do i need to pull the engine trans together???

 

I always pulled them together,personal preference I guess.

 

I find it easier to remove & install them as a unit. No screwin' around trying to get the trans stabbed and lined up.

 

you can do it either way, I usually do it together.

 

I have a killer oil leak in the back of the motor. Drove 3 miles to our local cruise in and back and used a quart!! I don't know if I can change the rear main in the car.

 

FE? Maybe. I've done it with a y-block and I believe they're similar in that area. You have to remove the rear main caps and loosen the others enough to drop the crank down slightly. If it has a rope seal there's a tool called a Sneaky Pete that works...sometimes. If it's a lip seal the job would be easier.

 

272 Y block. I'll put a rubber one in it if I do it.

 

One thing I forgot; you'll need to rotate the front crank throw up out of the way to get the pan off. No need to drop the tie rod. Even with a lip seal you will prolly still have a drip. Old Ford engines like to mark their territory.

 

A few drips I can handle. A quart of oil for a 3 mile put is extreme !!!

 

Yeah, fill up the oil and check the gas was the joke back in the day.

 

With oil hitting 4 bucks a quart it's expensive!!

 

Hard to figger with gas prices coming down, but I guess they gotta make their money somehow...

 

The refiners and pipelines and gas stations are still doing OK,my oil stocks from the drillers has fallen 80%-90% OPEC has increased output to hurt American companies that are fracking and now that China has slowed down demand it's a double whammy to investors with IRA's and 401K .Domestic drillers are also laying off American workers which ****s the deal with Iran will make things even worse.

 

You can change the rear main in the car. Make sure you use the neoprene or rubber one next. I did this myself

 

Well, I repaired it using another method....a 302 with an auto package. Just got it in tonight.

 

Please share some pics and details on what parts you used and what issues you had or tricks you came up with. Inquiring minds would like to know.

 

Just getting the engine in. It seems to sit quite low. I used the anchor type mounts. I want to run stock manifolds so I may need to raise it up some.

 

Engine in my opinion sat too low with the anchor mounts, made some adapters, drivers side 2 1/2 inches high, p***. . 1 1/2 inches high, which offset the engine one inch. Perfect for manifold to steering box clearance issues !!! Just mocked up, all bolts are loose.

 

Wrong Anchor mounts that's why should be these: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/albums/289-302-351w-swap-mounts.41498/ Same mounts in my '54 with Hedman 88400 headers shown below.

 

Header shot.

 

as long as we're talking mounts, does anyone make for a 57 with a y-block made out of polyurethane all I'm finding are made in china rubber and not going to waste time putting them in and waiting for failure.

 

If you do find some let us know. I would like a set for my 56.

 

There was a guy on www.y-blocksforever.com that was making and selling them the new forum doesn't have a good search function but you might ask this guy: http://yblockguy.com/

 

I never thought of Tim. If anyone would know it would be him. He actually built the 292 that I'm putting in my wagon. I'll have to get in touch with him.

 

Please post any and all findings

 

I have a NAPA salesman that calls on me at work and they have a new line of engine/trans mounts called Drivetech. Supposed to be made of virgin rubber rather than recycled. Don't know where they are made but I will ask. For 84-93 mustangs drivers side #DTM 6421639 P*** side #DTM 6421696. Roughly $60 ea. Another choice anyway.

 

No dice so far on the y block mounts. I posted the question on y blocks forever to no avail.