Does anyone know what the torque spec is for the front hub nut? I don't see it in my shop manual. Thank you.
If this is the nut that holds the brake drum onto the stub axle then the normal thing is to tighten it firmly which stops the drum from spinning then back it off until the drum just starts to spin and insert the cotter pin.......I don't recollect ever seeing a torque spec for brake drums using tapered bearings.....but could be wrong........andyd
Shawnin, get everything cleaned up, no high spots burrs etc. tighten the nut while turning the drum. Find that spot where you have loaded the bearings to where they have a drag on them. back of enough to where you have the bearings nice and free. Make sure there is no axial movement but easy to turn. If you cant find that sweet spot and still get a cotter key thru the castle nut you will have to change washer thickness
Backing off the nut after you "snug it up" removes the preload you just put on the bearing.... this is a mistake a lot of people make. Snug it up and WATCH the alignment hole for the cotter pin, if it needs a little more grunt to line it up then do so. Just think about the preload on carrier and pinion bearings. The wheel bearing is a load carrying bearing and it will tend to loosen up on its own in a few short miles. If you take that preload out then the bearing will loosen up too much and cause problems... excessive brake pedal travel, play in steering etc. and it doesn't take much play to be a lot of play !
Make sure you join us in the 1952-1959 Ford Social Group. Lots of good info in the group. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/social-forums/1952-59-ford-social-group.282/
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