Have a 55 pontiac chieftain with 287 stratostreak with auto trans. Finally getting it up and running after sitting for a while and have a water leak at back of motor that I need some help with. Leaked before it sat. Put 4 gallons of water in it today. Didn't even start it and there is water dripping out around a bolt at rear drivers side of motor. Bolt ties into the bell housing or whatever the plate is between the motor and trans. Doesn't look like it is coming out of head or between head and block. Dripping pretty good out of this bolt which is tight. Anyone have an idea why water is coming out of this bolt? Is there a water jacket there, cracked block, freeze plug leaking at back of motor under the bell housing? Thanks.
Of course it will be the most inaccessible freeze plug... replace them all to ward off evil spirits. There was a good post yesterday on freeze plug installations. Bob
Yep, while you are at it spend a couple of bucks more and get brass ones if they are available in the sizes you need. They will outlast the car. Don
Thank you all for your help. Is that a stratostreak block in the picture? I think I know the answer, but the motor has to come out for access to replace freeze plugs, correct? Man, hoping someone has a way to do it without pulling motor....
Where do you get freeze plugs for this block? Local auto stores don't have anything for this car, imagine would be same for freeze plugs.
i bought mine from NAPA,i bought a 389 kit & a couple singles--but that was a while back--chuck you could check with kanter's $20 if they have em, http://www.kanter.com///index.aspx?...t=1400&Sb=0&Vdr=&Itm=&MDv=1&MDpt=0&MSb=0&Prc= OR rockauto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1351123,parttype,11833
All you need to know is the diameter of all the freeze plugs in the block and the style (some have shallow dishes and some are deeper). The size is generally stamped on the freeze plug, and you may find a kit for another car will also be the correct size for most or all of the ones in your motor. And yes, replace every one in the block while it is out. When one goes the others are not far behind. Don
Brass ones are great, Dorman carries them and should be available from NAPA or any other REAL parts store. Bob
I had one in a stock car that drove me nuts. I'd be deep into a feature race and get black flagged for putting down water on the track. This happened to me 2 weeks in a row. Pressurized the system, radiator, water pump, hoses all looked good. Nothing from the intake, running down the heads... wait... what's that puddle under the transmission? I had a pinhole in a freeze plug on the rear of the block, way up high. Luckily stock cars are easy to tear down. I did them all while I was at it. You'll really have to pinpoint the location. With pure water in the system, you may see a rust track down the block, try to clean up the block first if its real greasy. Bob
Yep like Don said, just get the diameter of the freeze plugs and go to Napa and let them know what you need. Autozone and the like will have them but not know it.
Hello all, finally got a chance to fix the water leak in my pontiac after sitting for a year or so. It is at my brothers shop since I don't have the space or lift to do it. In order to help him get it out of his shop quickly I was hoping for some more input from you all. Its going to get done in little bits as he gets his paying customers in and out. Pulled the trans cover off today to take a peak and saw the flywheel with a million bolts attached to it (see pix). Question from him is when we undo all those bolts how is the trans attached to the motor? Is there anything we should keep an eye out for or is it like a current trans where the torque converter slides out? Any tips on getting it back in or is it also like a late model trans? Only manual I have is for the car with a manual trans. Thanks
Sorry, think I missed a step. Pulling the auto trans out so that I can get at the freeze plugs at the back of the motor.
The 32 (?) bolts have to come out. The torque converter is a two piece unit. The flywheel will stay on the engine and the trans and rear converter half will then slide back. CAUTION!!...the torque converter is full of trans. fluid which is going to spill out! Some of those HydroMatic converters have a small drain plug on them to drain it first.
A few other things, you'll need to get a new torus (torque converter looking piece) gasket as well. Check local or deal thru Fatsco. I would put some anarobic( red non hardening sealer) that gm has used for trans' to seal up the flywheel to the crank flange.
Do you happen to have any pictures of what this torus and bell housing setup looks like inside? Have gotten some responses that I should not remove this on a lift leaving the motor in but to remove trans and motor. Any thoughts on that? Thanks
http://www.pontiacsafari.com/MPC/Pages/page_0270.jpg You should really check out the entire Pontiac Safari site, there are online 55 and 56 Pontiac manuals. Those would show at least how the factory would do just a trans r&r. I would agree though with others that removing the engine and trans would be easier in the long run and less chance of damaging the gasket for the torus. Pop out the radiator and top support and the engine trans will come out thru there. The trans unbolts from the engine adapter and slides down and out. Just a warning the hydro trans is very heavy. Probably one of the reasons also to do it this way.
If your planning pulling the engine route I would change the other freeze plugs for the same reason this one failed.
Yep as 55chieftain suggested pulling the engine and trans together will make the job easier and less dangerous. Did one on my brothers 56 Olds very simular set up and it was a messy and scary job seperating them in the car.
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