My 55 pickup has vacuum wipers, unknown condition. I would prefer electric anyway. The later task force trucks had electric wipers, so says the parts catalogs. Since they are identical bodies, why would a replacement electric motor and switch not just bolt into the earlier truck? Thanks
55-57 Task Force trucks used a 55-57 car type electric wiper motor. 58-59 had a different cowl design, and used a 58 car type wiper motor, with special truck mounts, and different linkage. I'm not quite sure what your question is...do you have a link or picture of a catalog page that shows the parts catalogs you're talking about?
Thank you for the reply, I went back and looked at the catalog again, https://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=78, lists 55-57 as being electric. And 58-59 as vacuum. I'm 99 percent sure the vacuum unit in my truck is original, but I would like to run electric. Drove a 48 with vacuum wiper for years, so I know what it's like, and I plan to DD this 55 when done. Didn't know the truck and car were same in 55, I'm going to look at the car catalogs and see what's available. So I guess that my real question is what is the best alternative, the $150 aftermarket universal unit or an original/OEM/reproduction electric unit? I do have a rear hatch motor and switch from my engine donor, but don't want to waste time reinventing the wheel if a stock unit would bolt in and work well.
I would not try to adapt something modern, it usually takes a lot of time and doesn't end up working very well. The aftermarket one (New Port Engineering) works ok. The original electric ones work ok. I have both.... The car and truck motors have different part numbers, in the old Chevy parts book, so you probably ought to see if you can find one for a truck. The original 58-59 electric one is kind of flaky, but you don't have to worry about that because it won't fit in a 55-57 cab.
Saw that you have replied to other wiring q's,,,so, the light in the ignition switch, when was that supposed to be on? Thanks again
The light in the ignition switch is connected to a gray wire, along with all the other dash lights, as well as the radio and heater control lights if so equipped. So, they all come on when you pull the light switch "on", either half or all the way out. And if the resistor is bad, or the knob is turned to the right, they will either not work, or be dim.
So the lights were powered separately from the ignition (aka constant hot)? Guess that makes sense, the knob would be easier to find than the keyhole.