Does the ball look like its setting deep enough in the push rod cup? Lash is set to .020 cold. I've been told the rods are too short as well.... but they are what the book calls for 8.125".... any recommendations?
I recommend a small block Chevy. But-that looks right to me. My y block ate push rods till the valves quit sticking.
What manufacturer? There was a bad run of Y-Block pushrods a few years back, the radius was not quite correct, to accept the adjuster ball. This causes failure of the pushrod cup. Need to check this, with dye. A sharpy marker works fine. It does seem better if the ball cup surrounds more of the adjuster ball, don't it? But they seem to work fine this way. (I'm no expert) afaik though overall they look a little too short, threads of the adjuster screws should be about halfway, say, and those look like they are at the end of their travel. I suppose if they lash out OK they will work. Ted Eaton has an article at his website on how rocker setup - pushrod length - affects the ratio. You have effectively increased?? the rocker arm ratio with those pushrods. That may or may be not what you want. http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2007/12/
Go read the article Truck64 listed. Y block pushrods can be all over the place from milling the heads, to decking the block, to the valve seats. The other deal is the travel of the rocker arm across the valve stem. Best done right. I’ve had a mismatch in cup size fracture, it makes for a pretty good miss when the pushrod falls out.
As per "miker98038", Check your rocker travel across the valve stem for all your rockers on each head. if they are all off by similar amount, you may need to shim equally under the rocker stands (especially if the heads were milled more than .060) to correct("center") the rocker face travel across the valve stem. NOTE: ALL the stands need to be shimmed the same amount to avoid "loading" the stand/shaft ***embly!!
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