I’m putting together the backing plates for my 39 and I have run into a couple issues I need help with. 1- in the first two photos you will notice that I’m using 67 F series stuff with self adjusters. I set it up to also have the mechanical adjuster feature, but this makes the self adjustment work backwards on the brake. I’m guessing that the 56 windows didn’t account for self adjusters and I just need to deal with not having manual ability on one side. Sef adjusters always go on the trailing shoe. 2- the 56 anchor pins don’t seem to accommodate all the extra stuff, so I think I should scrap the anchor pin plate. (Pic 3) who has used the 56 setup with self adjusters before?
Can you grind the plate thinner to make space for the springs I’d squeez the red spring closed a little At least that’s what the old timer showed me when I worked at a brake shop in the 70’s
Maybe, although it looks like the other brake fit just fine, so maybe I just screwed this one up. I like the idea of squeezing it down.
It seems looking at other Ford brake drums that are set up that the adjusting cable is on the shoe with the longer lining, as well as the longer top spring. As far as the springs, that washer that appears to have wings might have a register that its not setting on correctly to allow room for both spring wires to fit. Remember short brake lining shoe points to front of vehicle, long shoe lining points to rear of vehicle.
That’s what I saw as soon as I put them together. I put the adjusters on based on the adjustment window location like a stock 56. Then I realized that the windows from that year didn’t account for auto adjusters, but then my brain took over and it was 11 at night. I got really hung up on the adjuster window not lining up with the wheel. But that’s what I get for using 67 hardware on 56 plates
I have the exact same set up on my 39 and it works perfect. Put all the shoes and adjusters on the backing plates, then mark where you need to have the adjuster slot on the backing plate be to access the adjuster wheel. Then drill holes of the appropriate size in the area where the new slot needs to be to open the slot up. File it smooth and your done. you can plug the original hole with to rubber plugs the hardware kits come with. Its the same backing plate for right and left because there is no self adjust on the f1 or earlier F100 brakes. I've been using these for years and at one time rebuilt them and sold them at swap meets as ready to go units with self adjusters. As for the anchor pins, don't use the 56 pins, use the 66 ones so they are the right length for the adjuster stack at the pin.
Here is mine mocked up during building my 39 right before i marked and drilled the holes to create the new slot.
Also since you are putting F1 / F100 brakes onto your 39, and if you want to retain the use of the original banjo bolt for the hose fitting, you need to use Brake hoses for a 52 to 54 ford. They allow the use of the copper washer for the Banjo bolt, fit the F1/F100 wheel cylinder and still allow the use of the original 1/4 inch brake lines (same hose for driver and pass side, driver has banjo fitting, pass 1/4 inch line threads right in.) . Its Raybestos Part number BH16179. they are just the right length too when using a dropped axle. I don't care what anyone says, These brakes work better with 1/4 inch brake lines. Some one will tell you that 3/16 and 1/4 will work the same. it wont. If Henry could have used smaller lines he would have, it would have been cheaper.
2540 (left) and 2541 (right) are the Dorman left and right self adjuster kits . Dorman HW3137 spring kit, 1968 F100 11x2 fronts (that's what it's showing now, not sure what it was when I looked it up). Also someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't there a left and right backing plate?.
i thought that you could swap the backing plates side to side and the lower slit would then work with the star adjuster - the back plates are the same pressing BUT the 4 locating holes to bolt to the sp9indles are clocked a certain way left and right to lean the plate backwards each side
p.s. IF only they made a 37-40 axle that was 47.5'' wide to king pins with a stock perch BUT only a 1'' drop rather that 2'' over stock - or a 3'' dropped axle rather than 4 - you could use the steering arms destined for a 5'' dropped axle and the tie rod would clear the wishbone.................
oh I see.......... the point of the inner banjo is so that you need not have a relatively sharp 90 degree bend there in the lines, hmmm I get it. where do you get the fittings?
LOL There it is. The offset windows still bug me on the driver side, but that’s my ocd and not an actual issue. My ocd is why this car isn’t finished yet.
I also just realized I used the right side adjust kit on the left backing plate originally and that’s why it’s on the primary shoe. I was not paying attention and wouldn’t have need to make this thread at all if I was. But it got me back on the HAMB!
This is the best tip yet! I asked the Early Ford Store about bendix to oem 39 fittings and they told me I needed custom lines. Thank you, thank you!
The slits are on the same side of both plates. In a 56 the only dif is the primary and secondary shoe. So the adjuster is pointing the other way. Swapping plates is possible, but it it clocks the wheel cylinder a bit differently
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