Featured Hot Rods 56 Ford Mainline

I see now, after a second look, you do have the bell crank you need. Just check to see if you have the kick-down rod.
I agree with others' suggestion on the front cross-member. Use a hammer and a punch or something similar and tap around underneath the cross-member looking for weaknesses in the tube. Hopefully it's solid.
I would recommend getting rid of the crankcase vent on the front, side of the engine. cover with a plate and reroute a pcv setup on the intake manifold. It will do better for you. And the side mounts have been known to drip some.

 

I have read about this on forums. Been thinking of making my own gasket for the spin on plate. Filters (well, gaskets) cost like $60 here. But after inspecting the old fossil big rubber circular gasket, i guess I better buy a new canister to get the gasket.

Making my own will likely tesult in a mess.

 

Yes, I have the bell crank, and the rod for the trans. The bell crank is welded so it cannot move. That will be a later problem to solve - someone might have done it for a reason. Or not.

I might adress the crank case vent later on. It would be nice to have a drip free engine.

 

Old cracked rubber gasket.

 

Wow! 60 bucks for an oil filter. Sheesh!

Those fiberous gaskets work well. I tried a rubber O-ring gasket once. IT DID NOT WORK!

If you can do the crankcase vent change now while the engine is out, of course, it will be easier. But I understand.

 

Yeah, some charge $10 each for SBC Ac Delco spark plugs. Rockauto in the US is something like $1.5.

 

The “new” gaskets available do NOT work, particularly with a high pressure/volume pump, tried and failed 5 times. The new “ rubber” is too flexible and the oil will get around it every time, maybe not right away but soon, 5 minutes into my engine break in I had oil pouring out , second time about ten minutes, starting to panic, the next 3 attempts went no better, shitting my pants at this point. My solution was to find another engine with the Ford spin on adapter and carefully remove it with the gasket intact and use that, the aftermarket adapters are not as robust and warp easier from over tightening. After all the aborted attempts the break in worked out but not something I’d ever want to repeat.
Most of leaks at the back of the engine, I’ve found to be from the valley and valve covers.

 

Ok, I might be in for some fun times.

My gasket was burned/dried/stuck to the block. So I guess I have to find an engine block with an intact gasket stuck to it, and transplant everything, haha.

Why did guys remove the OEM canister style filters? Did they leak too? Not fashionable in the disco era?

 

I made my oil filter gasket as I bought an original 58-up plate and nut. You can buy 1’ square gasket material sheets with 3 different thicknesses at any of our part stores. They look like cardboard but are not. I cut one with a pair of scissors 13 years ago and it’s never leaked.

 

Couple thoughts. Make sure your plate is flat, and perpendicular to the block. It’s not unknown for them to be bent from over tightening to try to stop a gasket leak. That’s more of a problem with some thinner aftermarket plates than the oem Ford.
Some of the Ford suppliers list the canister filter and gasket separately. Just the gasket wouldn’t be such a shipping/duty problem, but I really don’t know. If you look into that, an email should confirm it’s the fiber gasket and not a rubber one.

Last, being the same age as jimmy six, I’ve also got gasket material laying around, and Dad taught me to make gaskets so long ago I don’t really remember when. That’s the solution I’d be headed for. Either way here or the Ford Barn (or yblocksforever) someone should be able to give you the thickness of the new gasket.

 

Thanks. I have some different gasket material sheets, I often make my own - including exhaust gaskets. I will give it a try, I believe I have a suitable thickness.

 

Years ago I cut one out of a TIDE detergent box. It worked well after I got rid of the truck.

 

The engine I used came from a 58 grain truck so fair bit of room, but looking at the driver side from front you got the fuel pump and maybe vac pump them the draft canister, steering box, then the canister filter and the oil pressure sender and finally the clutch components, pretty busy area. The canister filter on the truck was huge and multiple points for possible leaks. The one I removed was clearly a leaker, all slathered in silicone, bottom of canister dished in from over tightening, homemade oversized washer all slathered in silicone as well, no way I was going to try using that big frigging abortion

 

The 312 has larger diameter main journals so it has to be reworked to fit the 272/292 blocks

 

As a point. The pistons on a 272-292-312 all have the same height. The rods are shorter on a 312. A 292 bored .050” over size with a 312 crank with the mains turned to a 292 diameter makes a great 312 because the 292’s main webs are thicker near the crank; remember you need the 312 rods too.
I believe a 272 can be bored to use std 292 pistons.

 

that’s what I did for my 272, works great

 

Damn! Rebuilt right here in the dirty 'No. Crazy. Seems like based on the spacing it is 1**4. Place has been around since 1944, so it could be a bunch of different years, 64, 74, 84, 94??? My long lost buddy Gene used to be an engine builder at Schedler's. I've been trying to reach him. Will try again. Very cool.

 

From what I can tell the crank, bearings and cam lobes look nice. I took peek as I replaced the rear seal. Also cleaner than I expected under the valve covers and in the oil pan. Here is a better view of the plate:

 

Made a thick gasket. The plate is straight, and I believe the flange sits very well on the gasket. I hope it will seal well.

Oil pan is installed an I am soon getting ready to put engine + gearbox together and install in car.

 

That looks like 1964 to me.

 

If you still have the pan off, pop a bearing out they are dated on the back side. That would give you a good time frame to when it was rebuilt.