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Technical 56 Lincoln Power Windows

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by CM3112, Nov 29, 2015.

  1. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    I recently purchased a 56 Lincoln Capri 2 door hardtop with factory power windows. I was under the impression that all of the Windows worked but when the car arrived, only the driver window motor would operate. So as I looked for replacement motors I thought that since I was re-wiring the car, I might look into replacing the factory regulators and motors with aftermarket units. The aftermarket route is less expensive but I will have to drill some new mounting holes which is easy enough.

    I looked at a kit from A1 Electric but wanted to see if my fellow Hambers had any recommendations.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448853781.283606.jpg
     
  2. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    Clean the contacts of the switches first. Ive heard of that fixing non working windows before.

    Dig a little deeper into it.
     
    Zapato likes this.
  3. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 2,096

    greybeard360
    Member

    A lot of times it is the motor itself that is stuck from not being used. Same thing happened on a 64 Cad I had... Only the drivers window worked. You might tap on the motors while pushing the switch and get them to start moving. Of they do, move them up and down several times. Of nothing else, pull the motor and take it apart and clean the brushes and comutator. Lube the bushing and gears too.

    I rapped on my rt front window and got it working but both rears needed to be taken apart to fix them. They worked better than the front ones.
     
  4. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,784

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    All the 'Road-Race' era('52 to '57)Lincoln electric windows(6V or 12V) suffered from corrosion in the switches & relays, the relays usually the most. Yes, it's a PITA to dissemble, clean, & reassemble them, but once done they are usually very reliable, & it keeps the 'original' in place. One other 'special' area to look at is the rubber connectors from the motor shaft to the gear mechanism(nearly 70yrs old & probably brittle as hell!)
     
  5. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,445

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    I took all my switches apart and cleaned them up , also made new plastic switch part. There are relays and wires to check also.
     
  6. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    I checked two of the 4 motors so far and they are definitely bad. Looks like most of the switches are dead too. I will start to take them apart and see if the can be repaired.
     
    contesly likes this.
  7. OLDSMAN
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,422

    OLDSMAN
    BANNED

    I used specialty power windows kit for the front windows in my convertible. I don't know the quarter windows work in the Lincoln, but in my convert the quarter windows pivoted down, so I used electronic linear actuators with the original window mechanism. You may have to do this in the Lincoln in the Lincoln don't go straight up and down line the door windows. If the quarter windows go straight up and down just use a 4 door kit from specialty windows
     
  8. bobo1
    Joined: Dec 18, 2008
    Posts: 504

    bobo1
    Member
    from France

    I have the same problem of the rear left windoow on my 56 premiere Engines rose vertically upward unprotected and axes it seizes up in time a good cleaning and an oiling and it is well. Your car seems dropped how made you dropp it ?[​IMG]
     
  9. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    Well, did some investigation over the holiday and found that the driver motor works but has a dirty switch. The passenger front motor is not working at all so I will try and take it apart. The rear windows had no motors, the switches weren't connected and no wiring to be found. I had only checked the front in the beginning.

    I also found that the driver window regulator is bent were it holds the glass.

    Keep in mind this all started because of a broken driver window.

    So my thought is to use the driver motor to test the rear windows. Buy a new motor if I can't fix the passenger one. Use those for the rear and buy a new power window kit for the front. I will re-wire the whole system and use the original switches.

    The plan comes down to cost in the end. New motors are $225 each plus trying to find a new window regulator. A new window kit for the front is $200 for both windows.

    Should be entertaining...
     
  10. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,445

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    If mine hadn't worked I was going to look at newer motors. Since the originals connect with rubber sleeves I'm sure something can be used. The windows are a pain to get adjusted in the channels because they have to fit on the wing and the rear glass. Good lu
     
  11. martyk98
    Joined: Jun 12, 2006
    Posts: 134

    martyk98
    Member
    from washington

    make sure you research motor numbers. Wing window motors are different than doors (if you are thinking of buying OEM). The points on your switches usually go out first. Bad door seals let water drip right in to the contacts. Also FYI, an aftermarket try five electric windshield wiper motor will work on you car to replace your vaccuum set up. Just cut the motor from the mount, turn it a little, refasten, and presto!!!
     
    CM3112 likes this.

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