Kerry Im Just skimming through some of theses posts. There are a lot of guys on here with a lot of knowledge. I remember when she died on the way to Brents house. If I remember correctly you had that clear filter on the carb side of the Fuel pump, and there was not a whole lot of fuel in that thing. I had a guy tell me to make sure I had enough fuel coming out. This is from plym_46; When you have established that you have a clear line fromt the tank to the pump, check the output from the pump. Seperate the line from the carb, and direct the output into a suitable container. A plastic beverage bottle works well. With the coil wire pulled from the dist, have an assistant crank the starter. Count the pulses of fuel going into the container. 12 pulses should yield 8 to 10 ounces of fuel. This flow rate indicates the pump is OK. If you get less, check the pump itself many have an internal brass screen between the suction and pressure side of the pump. If the line was clogged, chances are the screen is also. Check the bolt holding the bottom of the pump chamber on. Some of these are hollowed bolts and may be clogged also. replace any inline filters. Worked for me.
may the tank has some rust in it ...my 56 has the same trouble the fuel pump picks up the rust in the tank and pushes it into the filter wich will clog, only every id say 50 to 100 miles i bought a clear fuel filter so i could see if that was the trouble and sure enough thats what it was so i bought a fuel cell for the trunk havent changed it yet but will do in the spring ..with a new filter that should do the trick ..good luck
Tom, Richard and I did that when we re-ran the lines. Seemed to be getting plenty of gas. Just strange to me how sporatic this is..... And that clear filter is gone.....
I hate those glass filters. Had one break on me back in my younger years, luckily no fire. I bought a pickup later that had one and had it come apart the first time I drove it, fire that time. Later, an old Ford I had was acting up and I suspected rust, so I grabbed one of the better Purolator versions (threaded tube insert vs the cast bar w/pseudo threads). It was still sporadically stalling out on me but the filter was clear. I found out later by pulling the carb and pump apart, that the plastic element had shrunk or was just loose enough to let fine rust particles get past and pile up in everything. They would shift around and only cause problems occasionally. Looked like fine sand.
Yep had an old mechanic friend of mine that used to say "90% of carb & fuel problems are ignition and 90% of ingnition problems are carb & fuel" the smarmy bastard
An old-timer once told me that 90-percent of fuel issues are electrical, and I have yet to prove him wrong. I've diagnosed more than one "vapor lock" issue as a bad coil. The coil heats up, cuts out exactly like vapor lock, and by the time you're done walking around, looking at things or letting the "fuel lines" cool down, the coil has cooled enough that it runs fine again. One car (68 Road Runner) only experienced it in stop-n-go traffic: when the car was moving at speed, there was enough air flow through the engine bay to cool the coil. When it got stuck in slow moving traffic, no air through the engine bay, and the owner thought it was vapor lock. He'd cool the fuel pump with water-soaked rags for a while, and the car would fire up and run fine. I finally convinced him to get rid of the brand new chrome coil, and he finished Power Tour without a hiccup. Chrome coils are the debil! They reflect heat back into the coil's oil. There's a reason OE coils were black, and it wasn't for looks. -Brad
Do you have an electronic/hei ignition? If it is not getting a full 12+ volts it will fail and restart after it cools down. A lot of hot rods today run electric fans A/C etc which in turn draw a lot of volts/amps. if so you have to run a high amp alternator to get the power needed to your ignition. just my 2 cents worth
I went to a local show last night about 7 miles away and it ran fine on the way there. Leaving I got about a mile or so down the road and it died. Got it pulled off the road and got it started about 10 minutes later. Moved about 50 feet and it died again.....Long story short, Tom (Invicta) Kurtis (1bdsinner) came back (thanks bros!), and Kurtis could see a wire hanging down and sparking when I started the car. So, moved the wire back where it was supposed to be. Seemed to run fine after and drove home no problems. So right now, it looks like and ignition wire was shorting out against something. HOPEFULLY, that was all it was.
had a buick that would do the same thing and it was the wire going to the coil was bad and it drove me crazy! replaced wire and never had a problem entire time i owned it.
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