That's looking real nice - not so low that you have to be worrying about speed bumps, but low enough to look lean & mean.
Thanks guys! I did receive my $169 eBay Chinese radiator, It looks like it will hold water.....lets just hope it can cool down AZ summer temps. I am following this thread on the 67-72 chevy trucks forum and thought I would share. From what I can tell its a 100% bolt on front end that is in the prototype phase. Looks wicked to me. We are heading out to Anaheim tomorrow for the Brothers Truck show, can't wait to see all the old iron!!!
That radiator looks like it might work. Let us know! Interesting concept for a "bolt in" front end. My guess is it'll cost a lot, but it should have the right geometry, and GM spindles too
Home from the LA trip. I would like to thank Taylor for the excellent price on the bumper he sold me, its going to work out awesome, thanks man and good luck getting your truck back on the road! Brothers Truck Show was such a blast. I was so excited about all the great trucks it was hard to take it all in. Can't wait to drive the 57 out there next year! Here is a link to the pics
The temps dropped a bit so I asked my buddy Matt to come over and help me weld in the step notches. They still need to be ground down, dressed up and boxed in but they are IN, thanks Bro!!! Anyone have any thoughts on trying to use the old Panhard bar on the rear end? I plan to weld in two brace pieces that tie in the step notches together side to side on the top. This should give me a good spot to weld in shock supports. Then I will box the whole thing in and it will stick above the wood bed floor.
Neither Buzz, its a Panhard bar. This rear end is originally out of a '68 C10. I am just trying to see if its something I want to mess with adding. I know from reading the bar needs to be as long as possible and parallel to the ground at ride height to work properly. Once we are back at ride height I will see what my options are.
You probably don't need it, the leafs will do a good job of keeping the rear where it needs to be. If you're going to swap it out for a 4 bar later or something, then it might be worth building the mounts now for the panhard.
I thought it looked kind of long to be either, but I was looking at the leaf springs and trying to figure out why you would need it... Was the '68 rear end the correct width? I have a rear axle, but it's always good to know which rear ends fit these trucks.
Good to know. Hey, while you guys are online I have a question; Did you heat and bend your drivers side steering arm to fix the draglink angle after lowering your truck? I bent mine in two spots and got really close, but the front of the draglink actually transverses the lower shock mount by about 1/2", which means I still need to bend the arm inward a bit to clear the shock. When I explained what I did to bend the arm to a couple buddies, they both seemed concerned that I may have made the steering arm brittle by heating it up to red hot a couple times (two places) to bend it. I didn't quench it and it wasn't cold out...I let it cool off on it's own. Have you had any or heard of any issues with brittle arms after being bent?
It might be nice if you're either doing the bag thing, or if you're building a go fast drag racer. Leafs work ok for me, but I'm not into dragging trucks on the ground like some guys are.
What's the order for the fuel sending unit? Gasket, sending unit, then lock ring? This looks like its gonna be a total headache fitting this together
I have a 56 3100 with IFS and power disc brakes for sale it anyone is interested. It runs and drives well. It is in Deming, New Mexico. PM me if you are interested.
LOL, Buzz the bouncer, well played sir. Thanks Blake welcome to, how to do things in the wrong order twice and being lazy during our scorching Summer.
Hey Buzz, sorry I missed this earlier. I have not bent my steering arms yet, I will be doing that soon though. With my limited knowledge gained here is my plan. Slowly heat things up to just cherry red, one guy reccommended turning off the lights so you can see it turn early. Make your adjustment then throw it in a pile of sand to cool. I also still need to heat the steering arm tie rod hole and pound the taper in from the bottom up for the new style tie rods. If I get lucky I will try to do both of these adjustments under one heating cycle.
You actually don't need to heat it at all. I used a 3 1/2 ton jack style press to do it and it came out fairly easily.
Cab pillar is stitched in it still needs lots of work but at least the windshield should fit. both doors fitment still blow monkeys. Installed a short water pump and pulleys, they line up perfect but are aluminum, will these wear out faster than steel?
Template for pulling fan. Can't mount a water pump fan due to new designer AL pulley using centering socket screws Allen head screws. Bummer
My blower drive came with an aluminum lower pulley for the fan belt. I noticed recently that it's worn out. I have 100,000 miles on it! so you should be ok
The Jalopy Journal
