here's a pic of the rearend in his truck, you have to squint to see it, but it sure looks like a 70s truck 4x4 12 bolt from what I can see
I can't see the detail because im looking at it from my Blackberry. Those are nice finned drums tho - 4x4 or something HD for sure
Here is the only shot I have of her rear. Also that driveshaft came with the transmission not with the rearend in this truck. I am hoping it will work on the truck.
Yup, that's what the 70s-early 80s 4x4 12 bolt truck rearends look like. The perches and U bolts look kinda funky....but I guess it works.
The whole perche and U bolt setup was the previous owner, that will be changing with a flip kit Jim. Does anyone have any other chassis painting recommendations after sandblasting other than POR-15?
I use IMRON to paint the chassis. My other truck has 16k miles on it since I re-did it 3 years ago and it still looks like the day I painted it.
How you paint the chassis kinda depends on what your overall plans for the truck are. If you are going to build a really nice looking show type truck, then imron or a other type of high quality body type paint would be good, but you also want to do a whole bunch of prep work first, so you have a really nicely detailed and beautiful frame. I'm more into something like rustoleum or "chassis black", and no bodywork (filling rust pits and other holes, smoothing things, etc), but I do the necessary work and preferably sandblasting to get it all clean and rust free. If you are possibly not going to really finish the rest of the truck very well, then you might not want to spend too much time on making the chassis look nice. The only truck frame I have that still looks like the day I painted it is the one I never finished building the rest of the truck, because I spent too much time trying to make it all really nice.
Alright so it looks more like its going to be Rustoleum on the frame and I love it when FedEx delivers on time. Its a used CPP 3" drop axle.
You might be able to use the original steering tie rod ends if it clears. If not, try a pair of caster angle shims from Napa, # 264-4119 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NCP2644119_0066119236 The 4" axle I installed needed modified steering arms & Speedway tie rod ends.
Make sure you install the thick end of the wedge toward the rear, & the thin edge pointing forward. They will give you 6 degrees positive caster. You may find the OEM shims in there. I think they are 2 deg shims
Thanks again for the tips. Does anyone know if I can use these shackle kits front and rear, instead of paying twice for LMC's? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Nylon-Shackle-Kits-2-Inch-Wide-Spring,31817.html
Daily driver is the way to go. Coming out of our winter months here in the Northeast. Always great to be driving a fun ride.
I don't see how those shackles would work, but I don't have much imagination. As long as the bushing will fit the holes in the truck, and they're for a 2" wide spring, they could work. Make sure the shackles are long enough to let the spring move as far as it needs to.
Thanks brother. I bought two powerball tickets tonight. If I win, this truck ain't getting put together any faster! Some Jamey Johnson music that keeping me thinking....... <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/GpEOmZTYA4A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
awww screw it, its a Truck thread. The men who towed the line http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P637ok6pwVU
BTW, the frame above is bare metal, still needs painted. My neighbor came over, sit his beer on the frame and said "They did a good job on your primer". I said its bare metal, now drink your beer!!! Did my best at straightening the slightly bent front left frame horn, I think it will work. Finally, like 3 hours total time, removed the rear most chassis cross brace rivets and brace. Those damn rivets are some work! If I am going to run an automatic trans do I want to remove the bellhousing crossmember rivets and brace? I purchased a new auto trans crossmember from LMC a while back which is weld in. I am contemplating running the existing chassis and rear axle brake hardlines, is this a bad idea as they "seem" to be in good general shape? I ordered replacement front (2) and one rear (all the same PN from LMC) hydraulic flex lines. Problem is the tee going to the newer style 12 bolt rear end as the shot hose is crimped on . I need to research if a standard 3/8"-24 brake tee will work for all three male fittings. sorry no pics
You probably do want to remove the bellhousing crossmember, and add a new one under the back of the trans. And use side mounts on the engine too. I'm running original brake lines on my old AZ trucks. If you find any rust or other issues with them, replace them...better safe than sorry. Here are those headers I have...
Thanks Jim. I am interested in the headers. Do you have any trips to Phoenix planned in the next couple months? I am heading to Yuma on the 14th of this month but that doesn't help much.....just trying to duck shipping costs
624 heads are paper weights. First time thermostat sticks Crack. I've experienced it and have had sevaeral 350's given to me that were bad. Guess what all have 624 heads
sqrlnts, you got that axle from me. I'm building a '57 3100 as a work truck for my wife's gardening/landscape business. Mono front springs, 70's truck power steering, disc brakes, HD tierod, A/C !!, 327 with 305 heads, stainless tri Y headers, T350, and a second gen Camaro rear, and more "little stuff". My friend Dave and I are getting the truck ready for paint now. Small world............ The wife's truck came with a set of those headers squirrel has and they fit very well. and oh yeah, her truck came with the crossmember under the engine for the side mounts, and at the tranny mount, and the stock bellhousing crossmember was still in the truck. I removed it when the triY headers hit it. Now everything fits like it was made that way. (oh wait, it was made that way, !! LOL). one more thing, I do not believe those Speedway shackle kits will work on our trucks. We've got press in bushings with SCREW IN "bolts" that hold it all together. I found a couple of sets on ebay for cheap, new in the box, and fit right in my truck.
Or you can make your own lines Check out the Leno video at the bottom of the page http://www.brakequip.com/tubes.html Their Ezi-Bend tubing is good stuff. Flares real nice with my Ridgid 345 kit
I hear ya, I am not happy with the casting number cracking history. We will see what happens when it fires up. Small world indeed! Thanks again for the axle deal. You are correct, the shackles will not work, will look on eGay to see if I can score some. tjet, thanks for the link, my lines look pretty solid, just need to flush them out and see how they react to some pressure...
57 Chevy 3100 Master Cylinder rebuild thread for future reference. 57 Chevy 3100 manual steering box rebuild thread rear hydraulic brake line adapter to fit brake tee.
I removed the crossmember in mine when I dropped in the big Olds. I used a cutting torch. I think if I did it again I would drill out the rivets instead so the crossmember could go back in at a later time
I just built a motor with vortec heads. They really do seem to flow really well. I am not an engine build, just a guy learning like everyone else... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnHJLcFcvG0 Take note, if you decided to go with vortec heads you will need to get them machined to accept anything over .480 lift.
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