That hood modification is going on my to-do list On a side note, these trucks look a lot better with some taller "old style" tire sidewall IMO. The first pic is about perfect with the top of the tire hidden in the fender
I've been watching your build. Really great! Squirrel is right, that looks like a mid-70s 4x4 rearend. I'm getting ready to install the same rear in my '58...3.73 gears and all. Have you figured out how you are going to hook up the parking brake on that rear. I'm just curious. I haven't spent a lot of time looking at it or tried to figure out what combination of parts I might use but it's in the back of my mind, so I thought I'd ask.
stock parking brake cables should work. As long it's a 1/2 ton, and you don't have a 59 truck that came with a posi
I think Jim is right. The trucks paring brake cables are longer than what is on the newer 12 bolt. I think the newer rear end also has larger lead cable ends that may need to be resized, not sure just yet.
Quick update. Ok, just finished honing the master cylinder. Its not perfect but it has no "major" pitting. Need to order the rebuild kit now. The inside of the reservoir is extremely rusty, I am going to try the old battery charger and electrolysis to bust it loose. The BBC 1/2-20 harmonic balancer bolt is installed, thanks Jim and Apache for the advice. Removed my old exhaust manifolds and found they were cracked, no biggie Jims headers will take their place. Slapped on some of the Rustoleum on the chassis to test it out. This stuff is tuff as nails once its hardened up. Going to try and paint the rest on Friday. Heading to Yuma on Sat to pick up the radiator, shroud, condensor, electric fan, and overflow.
Just thinking ahead here. When I go to install the side mount engine mounts and new crossmember where in the frame should I align these, top middle or bottom? Or am I looking to keep the intake carb mount level and then just leave room for the radiaor and HEI? Maybe it will make more sense once I mock up the engine with the old bellhousing and crossmember..... Another out loud thought. The driveshaft that came with the motor and trans, the U joint in the driveshaft is too big to fit into the yoke of the 12 bolt rear end. I suspect that this driveshaft will need to be cut and balanced but I don't know for sure. End of outloud thought.
I used a 68 Camero drum drum master cylinder on my 55 with a bracket I bought at a swap meet from a Chevy parts vendor, Speedway sells one almost like it for $79.99 and uses you original brake pedal. If you go the dual master cylinder route you will need a proportioning valve to balance the front to rear bias. One of the biggest changes in steering is to install the roller bearings that Speedway and other vendors sell. Use a tapered shim or shims to increase the caster, this will make the stock steering harder to turn but will run down the road hands off. I drive mine long distances and have for years without any steering issues, I wedged mine to increase the caster in 75 when the State was redoing I-35 through Austin, Texas as the thing would hunt and jump lanes where they did the asphalt overlay before I did it.
You can mock up the front mounts with the old bellhousing, then do the trans crossmember after you do the front. Just set the carb flange or trans pan parallel to the frame.
Sounds easy enough! What about moving the engine forward an inch to leave room for the HEI? I only need to Mock the engine and trans up paint the frame fab up under cab battery mount rebuild the master cylinder\bench bleed then maybe I can mount the cab.....
You could move the engine forward. Or get a point distributor, they fit just fine. Although I think you'd be ok with an hei with the engine in the stock location. I'll see if I can get my son to get you those headers, he works 12 hr shifts so he is kinda burned out after work. And his suburban is still here, it was leaking coolant out a freeze plug at the back of the block Monday, and for various other reasons it's getting a new motor today.
Power Steering info for the future. Here are the steps you need to take. 1. Make sure the existing front suspension components are in good working order like Ogre said. 2. Decide if you want to use the existing column, modified for a lower bearing, or an after market column. This will determine what is needed on the column end to mate to the box. 3. Decide what box you want to use, aftermarket, Toyota or newer GM. This will determine what in needed to mate to the column. It can be splines, D shaped or even welded or pinned. 4. Box will determine what is needed to connect to the stock drag link. 5. PS pump will be determined by what engine your have, type of head (old smooth or newer with bracket mounts), short or long water pump, stock exhaust or headers, high or low mount and if you want an integrated or remote resivior. 6. Check for other conflicts like headers, wheels hitting drag links, etc. Once all the parameters are set then you can start shopping. I would recommend looking at the build threads to see what everyone has done, and the amount of labor to configure your own Vs. $ to buy ready to bolt on. Loooong article about PS conversion http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/TF_powersteering.htm Some photos to help vizualize <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
look at how far the wheels will turn, also. They might not go all the way to the right with that box in the way? or might not turn all the way to the left with the pitman arm angle Stock steering does work, but it helps to have been driving an old truck for years to build up your muscles
I did, yes. It really as difficult as you might think. Cut out a triangular-shaped "slice" out of it, nudge it down, relief-cut the base, weld it up. Boom, no more hammer-head look. Here are a few progress shots of the process; Outline of the "slice"; Relief cuts; A little finish welding, and ready for some filler and paint;
Tobias you dirty little monkey, get to work on that scooter!!! On to my issue of the day since each day seems to bring one!!! I am mocking up the engine for the motor mounts. My frame side to side is the exact same level as the carb from left to right. As I would expect because the engine is now bolted to the old crossmember and being held in place by the cherry picker. Anyway I have snugged up the engine mounts to the engine and they don't look right to me. The passenger side mount is almost at the top of the frame and the drivers side is 5/8" below the top of the frame rail. Next is the crank pulley. There is no way in hell the engine can go forward an inch for the HEI. I can't even get the 3 belt pulley on there right now. Its either gonna have to be points (booooo) or modify the firewall for the HEI. drivers side passenger side balancer to front crossmember
OK, to complicate things even more. Just measured the frame to the floor directly below the motor mounts since the frame is on jackstands. Drivers side is 20 1/16" Passenger is 20 3/8" EDIT For shits and giggles I am going to swap the mounts from side to side and try to level out the frame to the floor distance.
That's the problem with leaving in the original crossmember - no wiggle room. You may also want to get the cab on the frame before you install those mounts permanently. I lowered my 455 Olds & moved it back a couple of inches. I can remove the distributor (barely). No HEI - small cap Mallory (HEI's are ugly anyway) Only way I was able to do this was to cut out the crossmember. These 455's are kinda big. The nice thing about a SBC is that they are small & you can get some good setback on them - you will need to drop it more tho I needed to notch the valve covers in the rear for the firewall - that's how close it is. The only reason I didn't go any lower with the engine is because of the fan belt clearance at the crank pulley. I have less than an inch - see pic Those are nice mounts. Voodoo, nice work brother.
Frame is now level. I removed the motor mounts and swapped them side to side. No difference. With just the engine bracket in place and no bushings or frame side brackets in place I can get a very good measurement to the frame on each side. For some reason the passenger side sits about 1/4" higher with the frame and engine in perfect level. Maybe its nothing to worry about, I don't know. Beer time.
did you put the level on the frame at the front and the back, side to side, to make sure it's not twisted? I sure like a crossmember under the engine to hold the mounts...no twisting load on the frame....
Tjet, your talking about the front crossmember causing no wiggle room right? My original bellhousing cross member will be coming out soon and a new automatic trans crossmember will be going in. Hell, on the bright side if I have to go to points I will have an EMP proof vehicle!!! Jim, the frame is NOT level side to side, front to back. Just behind the radiator supports its showing a bit low on the passenger side about my 1/4"... Behind the motor above the crossmember its level.....
Hi there, this has been a great topic. I live in Las Vegas and it is also hot here in the summer. I bought a 57 chevy pickup that was a real nice truck when I got it but no air. Got to have my air. I installed an Old Car Aire A/C unit from Tuckers Truck here in Las Vegas. Installation was pretty easy until I tried to get fancy. I also used Allan Grove brackets for the a/c and alt. fit like a glove. When I say fancy on the install I ran my a/c lines straight out the pass side and through the wheel well and up and back through the right front fender and through the right kick panel to the air handler under the dash. Cleaned up the under hood somewhat. AS far as steering this is my second tri-five truck and both were almost like power steering when stock form. I think they have a great ratio from the factory. I run stock brakes and seem to work good. Truck had a six and previous owner installed a create 350 with the stock three on the tree. I pulled it and installed a BW T-5 five speed out of a s-10 truck. Works awesome. I wouldn't try to drag race it but I love the overdrive on the freeway. And they are pretty cheap to purchase. Anyway I went with a 1977 chevy blue paint with a white interior with some wide whites and blue rims with beauty rims and dog dishes. I love the way the truck rides and handles. Needs some better tunes but the a/c will freeze you out. Oh yea I got the electronic controls for the hot water valves and temp controls. i'll try and attach some photos of the car. I believe my son is in the drivers seat. Also did the Rustoleam paint on the frame after sand blasting and primering. Redid the wood in the bed and one of my Termite friend made me a cool wood box for the rear and side rails. ok keep up the good work. YRUHOT..........Doug
No, the crossmember at the trans. BTW, find an old distributor out of a 60's or early 70's vette. Small delco cap, vac advance, & tach drive. They also will take a pertronix or Mallory Unilite conversion. ...But not so good for an EMP blast. Just stay away from CTU or Jack Bauer & you will be ok Another reason to get the cab mounted is that you get a better reference on engine placement. Below is a pic of how my motor used to set - not straight at all - see the sideways tilt? I fixed it. Mucho better
nice truck! the power steering conversion using 73-87 chevy truck on the outside of the frame will cause your left wheel/tire combo to rub unless you go with narrow one.
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