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57 Chevy BelAir Gasser Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by KrucksGarage, Jan 9, 2023.

  1. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,230

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Mine wasn't a name brand. I got it from the transmission supply place out of Alabama that I got my transmission rebuild kits from. It's a 9,000 lbs. lift capacity. The slab I had poured has 4 plus inches of drop in a 32 foot span.
    One post I had to cut up some 3/4 inch plate for the low side and used thinner plate as it went to the high side.
    20231117_165000.jpg
    20231104_172747.jpg
    I have a 24x31 carport that will cover it.
     
  2. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Looks great! That will sure be nice to have that structure over it. Asymmetric is always nice for no door bashes on the columns. I have a couple rubber strips that get installed on mine for door bumps.
     
    Tickety Boo, mad mikey and saltflats like this.
  3. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,230

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I put some bump strips on mine for fancy car I worked on in the day job, it can still be close with a asymmetric lift.
    No worries of that anymore. My stuff ain't that nice. :D. This one is home and just for me. I'm sure my buddy's will be pissed when they can't use it. ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2023
    KrucksGarage and 427 sleeper like this.
  4. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Ha! All sounds good...

    I'm looking forward to the buddys and family coming over to wrench on their junk (and mine). You know what they say, if you build it, they will come...I do love shop time with friends and family though, and we help each other out in many many ways so it's always a good trade off.
     
    saltflats likes this.
  5. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,230

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I'm the one that does all the work. The buddy's just get in the way.
    I have a customer that has given me a 4 post lift that I'm giving to one of my friends for his garage, they can all go fight for the use of it.
     
    KrucksGarage and 427 sleeper like this.
  6. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Hahaha, perfect! Sounds like a good score.
     
  7. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    I got my Ford 9-inch housing back today from my buddy at the hot rod shop, he had to straighten it 3/16"on one side so it's dead nuts now and he did a great job narrowing it. It started life as a 70's 31-spline full size half ton Ford truck axle. It's down to just over 55" WMS to WMS. I have the stock axles cut down just to make a roller out of it and sleeved them instead of installing the 35-spline axles and a spendy third member, I'll do all that later. When I get a chance here soon, this will allow me to get the chassis under the body with the slicks installed. Really looking forward to that!!!

    PXL_20231122_014115596.jpg PXL_20231122_043606772.jpg PXL_20231122_043649471.jpg PXL_20231122_044153732.jpg PXL_20231122_044559056.jpg PXL_20231122_050143454.jpg PXL_20231122_051634422.jpg PXL_20231122_053452937.jpg PXL_20231122_053622914.jpg PXL_20231122_053704031.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2024
  8. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 21,565

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    We're hav'n fun now!
     
    KrucksGarage likes this.
  9. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    I made a couple u bolts, only had a couple that actually fit the ford setup. Also popped out the studs and drilled in a couple that would hit the 4.75" Chevy pattern. Got the rear end bolted in and jacked up the body to get the chassis back under. It's now sitting at ride height with a little extra front height to account for the big block weight to come. I'll be cutting the front frame off to build gasser rails next. I'll be moving the rear axle back a bit too clear the front of the tires against the quarter. Probably just redrill the spring perches with a new locating hole. Fun to see the car mocked up with the wheels and tires at ride height.

    PXL_20231204_010410145.jpg PXL_20231204_010343956.jpg PXL_20231204_010124905.jpg PXL_20231204_010142385.jpg PXL_20231204_005514974.jpg PXL_20231204_005547417.jpg PXL_20231204_005456770.jpg PXL_20231204_004942344.jpg PXL_20231204_004928040.jpg PXL_20231204_004846573.jpg PXL_20231204_004843613.jpg PXL_20231203_233322764.jpg PXL_20231203_225712270.jpg PXL_20231203_225653359.jpg PXL_20231203_205118597.jpg
     
  10. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    I'm getting ready to cut off the front frame section and build my new rails and all that. Curious about drumming up some feedback on anyone's experience with frame rail dimensions and why for these applications. I searched around a bit and found a few examples, but thought I'd look for input here as well.

    2x4, 2x3, what was thickness was used, etc...

    I've got a pretty good idea of how I'm going to cope it all together and where to cut the frame forward of the front body mounts.

    For now I'm going to stick with this 56 Chevy drop beam front axle and just make it work but later I'll probably work through WAC customs and get a straight tube moly axle built for it. I can fabricate new spring hangers and swap all that later if that's what I decide to do.

    It'll be a BBC setup.

    Thanks for any feedback...
     
    sidewayzz69, mad mikey, Baron and 2 others like this.
  11. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,309

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Most all frame stub's I've seen or read about were 2"x4"x1/8" rectangle tube. I'm sure other sizes and technique's were used too.
     
    mad mikey and KrucksGarage like this.
  12. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 21,565

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    As long as you're doing it and considering it's going to be a big block I'd consider using 3/16" wall tubing.
     
  13. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Thanks for the feedback fellas.

    I was just pricing out the material with my local welding and steel supply guy, interestingly the pricing is closeer than I expected at a buck a foot more for 3/16" wall...

    2"X4" - 1/8" wall: $11.00/ft
    2"X4" - 3/16" wall: $12.00/ft

    Other than any extra weight concerns, which works be pretty minimal I can't see any negatives going with 3/16".

    Also priced 2X3:
    2"X3" - 1/8" wall: $7.38/ft
    2"X3" - 3/16" wall: $12.01/ft

    Prob not going to go that route but I've seen guys use it as well.

    I've got a steering box to mock up and I have the trans; I haven't brought a big block home yet but I'm eyeing a few.
     
  14. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,230

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I would match the thickness of the factory frame.
     
  15. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Spending a little time on the 57 tonight, got the front frame section cut off and the frame spacers all peeled out of the rear section. I stopped at the steel yard but they were out of stock on the 2x4 rectangle tubing in both 1/8" and 3/16" wall. Should be able to get that this week and carry on fabbing up the front section. I'm still pondering if I want to use 1/8" or 3/16".... I'll also pick up a section of round tubing for a front bar.

    PXL_20240107_031123598.jpg PXL_20240107_031133019.MP.jpg PXL_20240107_031315282.jpg PXL_20240107_033329312.jpg PXL_20240107_033346198.jpg
     
  16. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,230

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Doesn't look like 3/16 on the original frame. Not sure adding that forward would be any upgrade.
     
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  17. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Yea I took calipers to it and it's only around .090" on the factory stuff. Front factory cross member is quite a bit thicker at just over 1/8".
     
    Thor1 likes this.
  18. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    I built my front frame section in the shop today. I used 2x4, 1/8" wall rec tubing for the rails. I pulled back 12" to start the taper and only came down about an inch. It's long right now, I'll figure all the dimensions on the car and cut it down once I decide for sure how I want to attach it. I've got the stock front section cut off. I decided to cut it straight down instead of a "Z" cut line I see a lot, I have several ideas on how to attach and reinforce it, but please share any ideas and methods you have done or seen and liked.

    The center to center dimension of the frame rails is 31-7/8", which is the spring pin center to center measurement of my '56 Chevy ('55-'59) truck solid beam drop axle that I'll be using (for now). The tube spreader piece is just tacked for now. We'll see how the stance comes out, and if I don't like what I have to do to get where I like it, I'll maybe swap to one of the WAC moly axles.

    Looking forward to getting this cut down and installed. I like how it turned out so far...

    PXL_20240204_051214461.jpg PXL_20240205_003908437.jpg PXL_20240205_032300686.jpg PXL_20240205_032713951.jpg PXL_20240205_033437890.jpg PXL_20240205_035217426.jpg PXL_20240205_041401367.jpg PXL_20240205_060312297.MP.jpg PXL_20240205_060317889.jpg PXL_20240205_060420114.jpg PXL_20240205_060411821.jpg
     
  19. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    I thought about bringing the cross tube forward to being flush with the front edge of the frame rails rather than held back like it is here but couldn't decide, so it's only tacked in place for now. Anyone have thoughts on that, appearance vs. purpose, etc...? I do think I dig the look of it held back a bit. If I bring it forward I'll just bevel the area where it's flush to get good weld penetration and grind it flush like the other joints and leave the fillet weld in place around the remaining portion. 6 vs. half dozen I guess...
     
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  20. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,036

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    IMG_2437.jpeg Had you profiled your rails prior, yes flush would be nice. As it is currently, the reveal around the tube is just as good. Leave it.
     
  21. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Yea it would only be the front portion that would be flush, most of the rest would be welded to a reveal, but would have a flat/flush front face for an inch or two. I didn't want to taper it too far down, so I only went with a 1/12 taper. I suppose I could have tapered it to a narrower front and beveled more of the tube edge to create a flush majority of the diameter too. I figured since this will essentially be serving as the front bumper in the event of a wreck I'd keep it a little more stout.
     
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  22. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 21,565

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    All the combinations have pretty much been tried, might as well trust your own eyes.
     
  23. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,230

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Looks good where it is or get a piece of tubing that matches the radius of the end of the frame.
     
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  24. Yowza! ... lookin very good...
     
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  25. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Appreciate it fellas. I'll probably add a temp brace to keep the width and get it cut down and installed here soon. Looking forward to having tires on the ground.
     
  26. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,552

    manyolcars

    when you weld this section to the original frame, what is the reference point for level? 90 degrees to the firewall? level to the frame under the floor?
     
    KrucksGarage likes this.
  27. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    That's an outstanding question. I set my frame where I wanted it before chopping the front section off, and reference marked off the floor. My shop floor is dead nuts level, I installed concrete with no slope, so I can plumb-bob, reference mark, straight to the floor. In this case, I pulled some triangulation type measurements off the factory frame based on reference marks before cutting, and welded bracing into the frame to keep shape before cutting as well. There's always some amount of spring in the material and it will shift if not braced in advance, similar to cross-bracing a body before cutting floors out.

    We'll see how it works out in my case, but most importantly, I'll install the front clip for fitment, with shims as it was set from the factory, square everything to the existing frame, and when I go to install springs and the front axle, I'll base the location off of the rear axle setting, spring hangers, etc, so everything tracks straight and the front axle runs parallel to the rear axle. I don't measure too much off the body, mostly based on frame measurements, and set the body for fitment/appearance.
     
    sidewayzz69, mad mikey, Thor1 and 2 others like this.
  28. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,552

    manyolcars

    thank you for the response. I plan to do the same to my 55. Will your new section be level with the garage floor? What other point on the car matches the angle or level of the new section? Anyone?
     
  29. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Just checking the width, experimenting with the level and making a plan for cutting parts for attaching the new section. The subframe is still long, I'll get things measured up and get it cut down to length soon. Happy with the width, 31-7/8" center to center to line up with the 56 Chevy truck axle spring pads. Should work out great.

    PXL_20240209_022752417.jpg PXL_20240209_022717077.jpg PXL_20240209_022654334.jpg
     
  30. KrucksGarage
    Joined: Jan 5, 2023
    Posts: 461

    KrucksGarage
    Member

    Got a couple hours into sizing up the front clip tonight. Got it cut to length, tapered and capped the back ends to slide further into the frame and fit up against the upper profile. Thanks @Baron for the thoughts on that and sharing a few pointers. Next will be the rear front leaf spring plates, which will take up the gaps on either side between the old and new frame sections, similar to the NicKey style gasser clip. Then grafting everything together. Still mocking things up and I'll final weld the front cross bar. PXL_20240304_022309915.jpg PXL_20240304_025736748.jpg PXL_20240304_030204527.jpg PXL_20240304_030237642.jpg PXL_20240304_030315009.jpg PXL_20240304_030324419.jpg PXL_20240304_030339852.jpg PXL_20240304_030348777.MP.jpg PXL_20240304_030356903.MP.jpg
     

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