Hot Rods 57 FORD Build #2... Glutton for Punishment.

Why can't that swaybar be mounted the same way as the factory unit?

 

Jeff
That's one super serious big boy sway bar. You are going to be happy with it. I'm
happy to see that you already have it installed.

 

Ain't that the cats nuts? My brackets were painted black otherwise the same dealie. It made a dramatic change to mt '59's handling.

 

That was a simple solution, no brake by me so I'd be machining them out of bar stock hot-rolled steel, which I have a lot of. I have a CAD drawing of my version of Cal Trac bars. And a shopping list roughed out. I'm using a pair of eBay yellow traction bars right now. The OG Cal Tracs are an issue as you approach the front spring eye, little real estate there.

 

I'm with you on nicop. I've used it on the last couple of builds. I have steel leftover. I don't think I will use it.

 

My clutch master is probably the same. I made up an aluminum mounting bracket, too thin a section and has too much flex. A 1/4" steel plate was the answer.

 

Looking good Jeff!

 

That Ni-Copper is the greatest thing since sliced bread.

 

I use a doubler plate on all clutch installations. The original clutches had very little spring pressure on the pressure plate and didn't flex the firewall much. Coming forward to hydraulic masters or Ford pull cable types and the firewall is always flexing which will lead to fatigue cracking. It's easier to spread the force and not have to repair than be repairing a finished car on down the road. If you don't drive your car, it's not a problem. If you put 5000 miles per year on it, you might consider this. The wider the area you can spread the force out on, the happier you will be. I don't know if Mr. Norwell will drive this car a lot or not. It looks to me like he needs to hire me to drive some of the many hot rods he has. Specially those that need burnouts to be happy.

 

This isn't the sexy stuff but it's the important part that makes your car, you know... work. Nothing pisses me off more than stuff that is poorly engineered or just left non-functional because the builder didn't take the time to think through problems. Nice work here, loving the progress.

 

^^^
Well, I'm back on the unemployment line again. I was looking forward to a job I could enjoy. LOL.

 

Most of you guys following this thread already know I don't think like normal people. That said, were it me doing a hyd clutch in my 57 the Master would not be in sight on the Firewall. Being it's so small and connects via a hose it would be under the Dash out of sight. I have this thing about stuff that just looks wrong being in plain sight. But I'm not doing this job so carry on.

 

Another way that comes to mind is stock manual linkage modified to work the master mounted on the Frame rail and a short hose to the bearing. Anything to keep it out of sight.

 

I'll go back under my Rock now.

 

I still get a little flex in the firewall, but it is tolerable. You could try another piece from the inside to sandwich it up, however that area is a tad busy with the pedal bracket and all. I'll look to see if I have a copy of the CAD drawing in my shop.

 

From the inside, even a sheet of 3/16" stainless would shore it up. I was thinking of 5/16" plate for the outside, but used what I had around. Now I think of it, the 5/16" wouldn't have helped, it has to be sandwiched. My 1st 2 tries were from 1/4" aluminum, not nearly strong enough.

 

Hundred percent on the Nicopp. That's what I used on the coupe and will on the 56. I used stainless on my 68 Camaro and it was hell to work with. For my 56 I got a couple different clutch kits. One from Mcleod and one from Modern Driveline. I think the modern one if a nicer piece and uses a Wilwood master but once again the stiffening plate is a little thin like the kits you guys have shown. What is it with these cheap manufacturers. I'll make my own plate for sure.

 

Sounds perfect to me!

 

I can also hack any portion out of my parts car and send it your way if needed. It’s now at the point of the firewall being the only useable pieces left…

 

I want to add my comment about the clutch master. To the best of my knowledge, none on the market have a steel sleeve in them now. I have plenty of exp. with these and the failure rate is kind of high. I would want mine to be accessable for easy replacement. I made sure the piston rod was in line as much as possible. Most clutch pedals have an arc in motion so centering the rod where it has the most pressure on the piston was my goal.

 

Looks great, but I don't see any line-lock.

 

Really, really enjoy this thread and your build! And here I thought having not one but two Meteor glove box lids in my garage made me special, haha! \I noticed in the picture of your hoods you have a Meteor splash pan too, with the filler insert in the dip. A friend of mine restored a 57 Meteor awhile back and put a FORD pan on, and kept asking me what was wrong because something seemed like it was missing....

 

for a canadian car that has almost no rust, what could have been wrong enough with it for it to be scrapped?

 

Probably the simple fact it had to many doors.