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57 inline 6 235..Popping,Sputtering

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sloppymotor, Mar 14, 2013.

  1. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    Coffee's on
    I don't see it in the pic either
     
  2. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 10,077

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Haha...I hear that.
     
  3. sloppymotor
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 246

    sloppymotor
    Member
    from iowa

    Pop..POP..Spit Sputter....only when I give it gass...going from first to second...second gear then give it gas..and it wants to pop..like a misfire...
     
  4. sloppymotor
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 246

    sloppymotor
    Member
    from iowa

    when its sitting in natural its fine..revs up like a champ...no hesitation at all....
     
  5. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    Check firing order again make sure its correct. Mabey a condenser heating up???
     
  6. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    Nevermind...if runs smooth in nuetral then fire order good. Something effecting ignition when under load
     
  7. No vacuum line to the distributor, Sloppy?

    If no, condenser is definitely on the list!
     
  8. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 10,077

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah, he had a vacuum leak, and someone probably adjusted the carb richer to compensate...which will make the engine run better but still foul the plugs...which of course doesn't help. And/or no line for the vac advance at all, so no advance either. No wonder it was running bad...and that explains why it ran pretty good until he got 'er out on the road under a load. We'll get 'er sorted out tomorrow.
     
  9. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    Do you have an ohm meter and check continuity in plug wires. Pul each one individually and teat from one end to the other to verify you don't have high resistance in a wire or two?
     
  10. sloppymotor
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 246

    sloppymotor
    Member
    from iowa

    here is a carb pic...
     

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  11. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 10,077

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok Sloppy. Take a break. Have a good night. See ya tomorrow.
     
  12. sloppymotor
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 246

    sloppymotor
    Member
    from iowa

    It do have a Vacuum advance..and it seems to work ok..on the other side of the carb
     
  13. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    Make sure the vac line is good to the dizzy and timing set at 6 btdc if I remeber on a 235. If not, when under accel, you won't be timed correctly or getting the advance it requires.
     
  14. sloppymotor
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 246

    sloppymotor
    Member
    from iowa

    :eek:..huh...????
     
  15. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    there is a vacuum advance pot on the dizzy (distributer takes too long to type sorry) a rubber hose to metal pipe or rubber all they way to the vacuum port on the carb at the base. This must be plugged to time the engine then installed to run correctly under acceleration.
     
  16. Good work, Sloppy!

    Goodnight guys! :D
     
  17. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 10,077

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Those small base carbs are very prone to vacuum leaks at the base too. But it's probably just the vacuum line. Like I say...let's hit it again tomorrow.

    Sloppy, do what you want, but maybe wait for help tomorrow before you go messin' around with it much more. You could go get yourself some new vacuum line from the auto parts store though. Hook it up too, if you want. Put one end on the little tit at the distributor...on the round metal thing. It's your vacuum diaphram to accuate the vac advance for the dizzy. The other end of the hose goes on the carb...probably the port that's plugged. I'd leave the valves as they are for now. If you get the hose on and it runs a lot better, you can go ahead and mess with the fuel mixture a little on the carb. It's the screw near the base. Do it while the engine is running. Turn it in until the engine just starts to slow and stumble...then back it off a little 'til it runs good. You can go back and forth to find the sweet spot. You can adjust it while the engine is not running too. Turn the screw in 'til it stops. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!...you can damage the needle. Turn the screw about 2 1/2 turns out...that'll get 'er close enough for now.
     
  18. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 10,077

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There's no vacuum advance on the carb...it's on the distributor. There needs to be a small diameter vacuum line going from a advance unit on the distributor to the carb. The vacuum from the port on the carb provides vacuum to accutate the vacuum advance diapharm at the distributor. When the car is under a load, the amount of vacuum produced by the engine and sucking through the carb, moves the diaphram and pulls a little lever in the distributor to automatically adjust the amount of spark advance. So the spark advance is always changing...according to amount of vacuum, and the engine's needs.

    I'm done. Goodnight now for real everybody. Good job, Sloppy.
     
  19. sloppymotor
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 246

    sloppymotor
    Member
    from iowa

    The Vacuum is already attached...Its a stainless line..This is a second..Vaccum hole...with the cap on it...the Vac advance line is on the inside of the carb..and has a set screw next to it...I'll post a pic of that side too...
     

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  20. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    Goodmorning bump. Any news?
     
  21. I guess I missed a lot last night lol
    Can you check if the port is plugged on the carb?
    When u rev it at idle does the dizzy turn? You should be able to see it adjust
     
  22. terryble
    Joined: Sep 25, 2008
    Posts: 541

    terryble
    Member
    from canada

    This is bad advise! The rub portion of the points needs to be on one of those raised "things" and if you adjust the points to .040 it won't run very well. Try something in the range of .025. You don't mention if the points are new or not so you may want to check that the points surface is pitted or burnt. Points someties can cause a lot of your issues check your condenser connections as well.
     
  23. This is just like being out in the garage with my old buddies. I'm trying hard not to jump in here 'cause you guys have it handled and I don't want to add any confusion bit I love shit like this!

    So where are we? Points adjusted and we're working on a vacuum leak?

    I know we're not there yet but I just want to throw in again that not all 235s had hydraulic lifters. As someone mentioned earlier, truck motors had solids.

    You're doing good Sloppy. These motors are simple once you know how to do a few things and once you learn these things you'll be in good shape from now on:

    You need to know how to:

    1) Set point gap
    2) Set spark plug gap
    2) Set timing
    3) Adjust valves
    4) Adjust Carb

    Okay, I'll shut up now 'cause I'm getting ahead. Carry on!
     
  24. Yes, that info was corrected in the thread.

    Hey Sloppy! Post bigger pictures cause I can't see what the hell I'm looking at! :)
     
  25. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    He has adjusted the points correctly , checked firing order at the cap ( previous owner may have had it wrong?) , test drove with same results. Its seems there is an ignition breakdown only under load on acceleration. When in park/nuetral all ok when revved. Sounds like condensor or mabey a plug wire ( or 2) breaking down. I advised new condesor ( cheap and should have a back up in the glove box) and to OHM check the plug wires to verify good resistance.

    Hoping for a good Sloppy day
     
  26. Somewhere early in the thread we had the point gap transposed with the plug gap. It was corrected to .016, the points are new but installed without adjustment, just right out of the box.

    This is a fun thread, kind of like a mob in India trying to get some poor soul to an ambulance without killing him. (no offence all you from India).
     
  27. HAHA I am having fun on this one. i dont think sloppy is getting up this early though he was up late.. maybe he will repost tonight?
     
  28. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    coffee is still warm
     
  29. Alrighty!

    I just got to work, and I am ready to get Sloppy's hands dirty again! :p
     
  30. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    You guys are awesome. I spent my lunch today reading this while thread wondering if he would get it running. I'll have to check again after work and see if I can help!


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     

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