After I had my front fender stripped, I found this patch: Wish I had a better close up but there's gaps around that patch and it's sitting a little shallow of the rest of the fender surface. And this unrepaired rust damage: Plus there's corrosion between the panel and the support that the derusting didn't remove. So at least the skin in that area has to come off. Another fender came with the car, it's damaged up front but the back is good: I'll leave it open. How would you go about this repair? PS I'm not a 'body guy' but have a MIG, cutoff, etc. and can manage a decent job, it'll just take more time than a pro. Thanks for ideas.
Cut it out and replace with good steel. Solid weld everything, no gaps or holes! DO the inner with 16 ga. and the outer with 18.
I am going to get a little heat for this reply, but here is my opinion. That repair is perfectly good for most instances. If it was on a daily driver truck it would probably last for 10 years. On an old car that will spend most of it's time in the garage it will last longer. Now for personal satisfaction, or if it is going on a big buck car. It should be cut out and **** welded and metal finished to no filler finish. (I am not that good. It will need filler) I think I would not use the extra fender for a patch. I would save it if the front damage could be repaired if needed later.
I'm listening...thanks. oldolds, I'm not opposed to what you say except that I believe there's already corrosion between the skin and the support. I'm not comfortable with that remaining. chopolds, I agree but am not sure as to the extent to cut it out.
Personally, since you have a good back section on a junk fender, I'd cut a horizontal line about 2-3" above the existing patch panel, all the way to the wheel opening, leaving the inner structure intact. Then you could rework the inner rust area. Weld in the replacement fender, being careful to keep the crown shape from getting goofy. (a card board template would do the trick) Should make for a nice repair IMO.
Personally, since you have a good wheel opening lip, I'd leave it, but cut out the trailing edge. Since it's just a small folded over edge, that traps the inner, I'd replace that, just to leave off welding that long vertical seam. Bend a piece of metal to form the edge, and slip it over the inner, after cleaning the rust off, and trim and weld it on. hammer the edge to trap the inner carefully.
Well, here's what I decided, and glad I did. I think this gives me a good shot at success. I'm a wrench and micrometer guy. This is new territory. Thanks for the guidance.
I would make a horizontal cut just above the triangular patch from door edge to wheel opening in the OUTER panel. I would make a horizontal cut at good metal in the REINFORCEMENT. Cut a matching replacement, without separating, from the doner fender, carefully rust proof the gap between the replacement panels and weld in. Alignment before welding will be critical and possible.
My thoughts were to add a skin section following the existing diagonal cut, and separately replace the bottom of the reinforcement with a horizontal cut. This way I wouldn't interfere with the wheel opening and I believe I'd maintain the shape easier. Thoughts?