Projects '59 Custom 300 motor swap

I was a little chicken to post this after looking at several of the more involved builds posted here, then I thought, what the heck. I bought a 1959 Ford Custom 300 last June and I love it. While I've never been a big fan of the bodystyle, this one caught my eye. The only thing I didn't like was the 223 six, I'm just a V-8 kind of guy. After driving it home, I did a disc brake conversion on it. I drove it last summer to several shows and I always had problems with it overheating and I couldn't solve the problem. So I bought a 302 and a 5 speed to put in her then I yanked the six in March and got to work rebuilding the roller cam 302. I used Randy's machine shop here in Columbus, Oh based on recommendations I found on this forum, great job by a great guy. While I'm redoing things, I decided to rewire the car as there is no fuse box and I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator on the floors. I spent a week with the bare block and trans getting everything lined up. I cleaned up the engine compartment and cut off the 3-on-the-tree shift rods.
The plan was to put the fuel injection on the motor put I can't get my head around the look of the modern intake in this cl***ic. The motor build is stock 93 GT. So I hogged out the GT heads a little and port matched a factory aluminum intake and topped it with an Edlebrock carb. I painted the motor red to look like the old 312 T-bird motors and the valve covers are black so I can put the "Thunderbird Special" decals on them (the motor came out of a T-Bird). I want it to look like the motor came in the car.
The body is in great shape and the interior is new. Not much of a build, but I'll post progress as I make some. The goal is to have it on the road by the 1st of June. Here's some photos:
The car as I bought it:

Cleaned up engine compartment: (firewall needs done)

Motor to start with:

Motor as of a week ago:

Out with the old, in with the new:

Thanks for looking!

 

looks like a nice cruiser, beautiful car, love it.




PM me about your 223... i might be interested, if you plan to sell and the price is right

 

Nice ride. I would have went with a YBlock but thats just me. At least the engine colors are right. That 5sp going in it? Would make it a joy to drive.

 

Love the car and your engine choice. You will end up with a very nice, reliable cruiser. And I've ALWAYS liked that body style.. very cool.

 

My Ag teacher in Irwin, Iowa bought a brand new ford jst like that in 1959. red with a 6 and 3-speed stick. Hee was a hell of a nice guy. You have done a great job on it.I would much rather see a guy like you hot rod these old Fords than read about some filthy rich guy in Hot Rod mabagine spend a lot of money and then sit and LOOK at it!!
I bought a 1960 T-Bird 4 years ago, was a real junker. But I made my own panels(galvanized heat ing duct tin) and am redy to paint it Monte Carlo red this weekend. I put a 430 Lincoln in it. Not a show car by ANY means, but I get many compliments and it is absolutley a blast to dive.can't say that about a new $40,000 dollar junk they build now.

 

Nice project and I really think you made the right choice for the engine, especially nice with the earler paint scheme.

Keep up the good work.

Ray

 

Thanks! I shied away from the Y-blocks because I know very little about them and also price & parts availability. The 5 speed in the photo is going behind the small block in about 5 mins, if all goes well, I may have her sitting in the car tonight. It will be a cruiser, the wife and I plan to drive it to death and then rebuild it so we can do it again. More to come!

 

There is someone who has posted a wanted add for 223s and parts on the Dayton craigslist if you have not found a buyer for the six.

 

if someone can use it local, let em have at it... it'd be well over a month or more until i could come and get it anyhow...

 

Thanks, I'll check it out!

 

Hey 59' I'm just about to start the same project on a 59 Galaxie Fairlane 500, 302 with a T-5. What are you using for motor mounts? What what I've read so far is that I need to buy a $200 mount kit for a 302. I'm hoping I can find a cheaper way to go!

 

Mounts for a mid 70's truck work ($30), but you need to open up the mounting slots in the frame because the motor sits a little ****ed. The original trans crossmember works, so you can use the original mounting holes to line everything up. I also had to fab some 1/4 in spacers because my oil pan was sitting on the frame. I'm working on a trans mount, I have a Mustang T-5 conversion mount that may work. What are you doing for your clutch? I'm using Mustang conversion parts from Sacremento Mustang to install the original Z bar linkage. I'll post some pics tomorrow of the set up. I hope to drop the motor in tomorrow

 

Ok thanks for the info, i'd like to see the pics. I haven't thought much about the clutch ***embly, this is my first project like this so everything will be a learning experience. I rolled my 93 mustang a couple months ago, so the plan is to take as much as i can off it and put it into the galaxie to make it work. Any suggestions you have will help.

 

The Y block would have been my choice too. I still have one from '57 that is factory equipped with the dual quads. It took some doing from a lot of talented folks but it did become a real contender and is still a quick dependable car. This is a real nice car. Enjoy it!
Normbc9

 

Okay! I did some more work on the car yesterday and I took photos. I'll try to post a description with each one. If I start to bore you all, let me know. If not I'll continue to ramble.
Driver's side frame mount was widened so the motor would sit straight:

P***enger side frame mount is opened up a little because the motor sits lower in the frame:

70's truck motor mount on the block:

Spacers to raise the motor up about 1/2" to make clearance for the oil pan. The extra bolt goes through both plates and the frame and the motor mount goes through both plates and the frame mount:

 

The clutch uses a 65-68 Mustang clutch fork and a '69 Mustang throwout bearing. To switch from a "pull" type to a "push" type you need a spacer block and mounting bracket. I bought mine at Sacramento Mustang:

The spacer and bracket need to be mounted exactly 1" from the edge of the bellhousing:

The mounting ear for the clutch cable needs to be modified. Before:

After:

Frame mounts bolted up. Both bolts (grade 8) go through the frame mounts:

Firewall clearance:

Oil pan clearance is very tight:

 

dude, VERY well done and thought out... how much clearance between the pan an the crossmember... enough for torque rotation?

 

I tried some BBK headers because I cannot get the studs out of the factory headers and in mock up the seem to interfere with the clutch:

As you can see, the Z bar won't fit:

So back to the Factory headers:

I used a bracket from CJ Pony parts to mount the stud for the Z bar on the motor:

Again, clearance is tight:

The other side may have an issue with the Idler arm:

The clutch linkage from the bottom:

 

Here's how she sits:


Today I'm working on the trans mount and driveline alignment. More to come!

 

Very nice work on a very nice car. You are on the road to a summer of fun with this car.

 

It's really tight, a 1/2" at best. If I were running more power the motor would have to go higher or an inch or so forward. I may be wrong, I'll find out in a couple of weeks when I fire it up.

 

take yur torch, even a propane or mapp gas will do in a pinch, heat the flanges till they are a nice dull red, say 1200*f and try to NOT heat the studs... grab a vice grip and twist on the studs... they should slide out pretty well at that point

 

if it does, you can always modify the pan and pickup a little... i did that on a 250 chevy mill i had planned on putting into my 54 ford... got a 230 pan, moved the drain plug to the rear from where it was on the bottom, and took out about 1/2" of the rear of the pan IIRC... you got a lot of the hard part out of the way man, you are going to have a nice cruiser that'll be able to get out of its own way! LOL

 

Well done. Enjoy it, you've earned it!

 

I moderate the 1952-56 Ford group,here is a hint do not use the truck mounts that you used late model Mustang & MKVII mounts are taller and eliminate the need for spacers part# ANCHOR 2725 &2726 at Autozone or O'Reillys, If you want them in polyurethane(no sagging with age) you can use the Energy Suspension set # 4.1124 which also has the transmission mount which you can order from the same places to avoid paying shipping.HEDMAN header part# 88400 can also be used.

 

I am subscribing because this is just a sweet car.

 

Thanks! Where were you when I was hunting everywhere for a proper mount. The '57 Ford guys are using the truck mounts, so I went with those. I'm going tomorrow to get a late model trans mount, the early Mustang swap mount is too short. Today I worked on mounting the alternator, finishing up the clutch linkage, aligned the drive line, and checked shifter clearance with the seat. The alternator is giving me fits, but I'll get it worked out. Then I'm on to the fuel pump and wiring. She's getting a new harness, Ford left out a fuse block in '59.

 

Thanks!

 

JeffB2, I went out and bought the mounts you suggested on my way home from work, I'll slap them in tonight. I put the trans mount in and the motor is now too high in the rear, goofing up my trans to rear end angles. It would also be great to get the oil pan a little farther off of the frame. Thanks for the help.

 

More Photos! The first 2 are with the old mounts and show the shifter location in relation to the seat. It was very close even with the seat all the way back. It's a good thing I'm not short. The other hole was for the 3 speed floor shifter that was in the car when I bought it. The 2x4 is in there to shift the ****** over to the center, but the problem was fixed before I decided to switch mounts.


By the way, that CD player is history, I don't know why I haven't pulled it yet. It kinda kills the vibe of the car.