Does the 59AB ford flathead need two temperature gauges? Or is the radiator the common reservoir tying both sides of the motor together? Thanks, Tony.
I have 2 on my 8BA, the heads read completely different temps. I don't know, do 59A have 2 thermostats? If so, wouldn't they need 2 temp senders?
The radiator is the only place where the coolants from each side of the engine can mix together. Each side of the engine has a separate cooling system from each other. Although the Ford cars only had one temperature gauge, they did have a temperature sensing device in each bank. The sensor on the left bank worked the gauge while the one on the right only worked the gauge if that side overheated. It would then peg the gauge to tell you something was wrong. I have only used the one sensor on the left side and it has never been a problem I think the coolant mixes enough in the radiator to minimize minor differences.
Yup, my 8BA shows somewhat different temps side to side. To accurately monitor engine temperature, a gauge on each side is required. Ford's factory system with a gauge for one side and a "hot indicator" for the other was just fine. If you don't monitor both sides and a thermostat sticks shut, a gauge in only one side may not tell the tale. Same for 59As.
I did not know this but it certainly makes sense now you have explained it. Following on from your knowledge and understanding ............. can the stock sensor from the right side be used to connect somehow to a "modern sensor" on the left side? I am curious as I just run one classic instrument sensor and gauge on the left side head and nothing on the right at this point. On my 8BA flatty the left side runs 20 degrees hotter than the right so I figured that would be where I put the sensor - ( I reasoned rightly or wrongly that if the right did ever get hotter than the left then it would eventually also show up in the left side via an overall increase in coolant temperature from the radiator.
I have seen people run a toggle switch to chose which head the gauge monitors. I chose to run two temp gauges in lieu of a volt gauge. So far that was a good idea...
I have in the past, using just one electric gauge, put a sending unit in each head and a switch to change which side the gauge is reading. You have to remember to switch from side to side when you are checking your gauges though. I prefer to use 2 gauges but that isn't always an option.
I run two gauges as well, there's nothing wrong with that. Like others have said each side of the engine runs at a slightly different temperature and it's nice to have a side by side comparison.
Has anyone ever figured out why the left side always runs hotter than the right? It really makes no sense since both sides are a mirror image of the other.
The left side of the car has more weight. The driver is always there, as well as steering and brake apparatus. So the left side has to do more work. Hence the higher temp.
I run a switch and one gauge in my '34. Works fine. For some reason, the right side runs a bit cooler than the left.
I went with two gauges (SW hencho en Mexico) that don't read all that accurate but they look nice in the cluster. I have tested with a IR and they are off by 15-20 degrees. I don't have any overheating issues so I don't worry about it.
I've only ever ran a single temperature gauge on my flatheads since in the 60's without a problem but have noticed the right bank is always 10-15 degrees warmer than the left bank with my hand held IR on the flathead in my coupe. Hadn't thought about replacing the voltage gauge with the second gauge on my 5 gauge cluster.
When I built my truck with a 59AB I ran two temp gauges below the dash. The passenger side always ran slightly less than 10 deg higher than the drivers side. When I rebuilt the original gauge cluster I went with a single temp gauge and sender. My flathead actually runs a little cool so for me its not really a issue. Two senders with a switch running a single gauge would work if your worried about it.
I run the stock, which is in the left head, and an aftermarket S&W mechanical in the right head. Seems to work okay for me.
I have been using the one gauge two sensor system for a few years now in 59L engine. Works fine, I just have to remember to use the switch. I usually don't worry about switching until I notice the temperature climbing on a hill.
I ran the auto temp switch on my 41 flatty came on at 175 kept running till temp came down to 180 what difference speedway kit easy install
I have a temperature auto switch also but I usually leave the fan on all summer. In the fall I switch it back to auto. My flathead doesn't really run hot I am just supper cautious as flatheads are generally famous for overheating and I don't want to over heat the engine and crack my block.
I made my own `gauge panel insert and barely squeezed in the speedometer plus 4 of the usual small gauges. I have 2 temperature senders and a switch to one gauge as several have described. The 2 sending units have different resistance readings so they will not read the same. The sending units ( at room temp) are within 1 ohm of each other when disconnected from the gauge. They read within .8 ohm of each other when the switched to the gauge. IIRC, with the engine warmed up, the pass. side was about 10 deg hotter than the drivers side. When I switch from one side to the other, it takes maybe 15 seconds for the gauge to " catch up ".
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