I am building a 30. it is going to be a TIGHT fit! got any tips? I was going to run an electric fuel pump, so I will have a bit more room... barely.
I probably have the parts needed to mock up many arrangements. I suspect, since you have the extra height of the 1930 radiator, your most compact setup will be a single fan belt, early pumps and 21A distributor, and generator mounted fan. The gen mounted fans come in several lengths, and I think the '35-6 is the shortest, mounting the fan barely short of cutting its own belt. I'll try to check clearance issues on the engine--I don't think the crab is incompatible with the gen mounted fan, but have never tried that either. Another route is the '42-8 fan moved back some, requiring cut down crank pulley, but I suspect that would still cost you an inch or two. Stock setup sticks out considerably. I think AV8 Dave may have tried this in an A. Here's a picture: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Engine_complete1942-48-leftside.jpg notice this has the considerably longer (but waterproof) 59A cap on the distributor, and notice that the first row of pulleys is as close as physically possible, but the 21A fan sticks way out. I think a gen mount crab fan would clear the crab, possibly with the short shaft, most likely with the '37 shaft.
i'm very interested in this also,as i'm doing a 29...anybody have any dementions on motor mount placement,etc.
Damn Bruce my head is spinning! I will do anything to get the 8BA in there and as short as possible. I just want to maintain as much of the stock A dimensions as I can. please do some investigation for me when you can. I want to use the 8BA for the reason that I already have the complete driveline
OK, are you commited to any parts combo you already have, or can you change all to shortest rig? If change is OK, I'll start stacking pars on a block...
Hokay, I'll drag out my library of flathead hardware and develop a package that will fit your 8BA in there.
Bruce, I'm having the same setup issues spinning in my head. I have an 8ba and am puting in a 29 with 29 shell. However, I have the later truck pumps that stick out 3" If I switch to the pumps that are closer will the engine sit in the same place or will I have to move the mounts? Man I'm a little concerned with what I have. I too could use the bruce lancaster engine setup kit. I want to go with electronic ignition, does the crab cap come in electronic versions.
This weekend, I'm gonna stack various early parts on the front of a flathead and measure protrusions. I don't know if I have any late pumps and stuff to compare, but at least have a late truck crank pulley as a sort of indicator.
I've compared earlier (1948) pumps to truck pumps (if that made sense) and the engine mounts end up in the same place if that's what you're asking, ukmsmalls. The comparison was done on a few different motors setting in the corner of the ba*****t with a yard stick and my eyeballs....and I have pretty accurate eyeballs. Running an 8BA with truck stuff and late distributor if you need any specific measurements.
The motor mount points will be the same. I just compared the two types of water pumps to make sure. Speedway Motors caries electroinc distributors for all of the flatheads.I like the Mallory duel point that they carry for the 8BA. It runs really well on my '52 motor that I have in a '27 roadster. pigpen I have the flat "Bundy forehead" from beating it agianst the wall all the time. Disgusting.
Bruce RULES! I like the 59A style for the symmetry. I hate the 59A, in a fat fendered car, because of the symmetry. I have a 59A in my 46 and trying to get to the distributor to make adjustments is like ******* up a rope while laying down. Oh, btw, the flathead is coming out of the 46 and I am contemplating jamming it inside some "A" rails so this is good information for a possible future project. Then again knowing how I am I will probably just sell it. And I must state it again, Bruce RULES!
'42-48 Ford distributor work: You don't do anything in there--procedure is to start the two bolts with open end, spinemout with your fingers, disconnect coil small wire at coil, push rotor forward into cap, and slide distributor out, leaving cap&wires hanging there. Takes 30 seconds on a bad day, and once you've done it you can R&R the thing without even looking at it. All adjustments are done on the bench, including timing, and the graduations on side then allow you to play with timing witout further work or losing tarack of your starting point. Odd but easy, and the preset feature makes it easy to keep a spare complete distrib for road trip disasters rather than loose parts.
The Jalopy Journal
