I've got my reservations posting this as its in no way trad but I couldn't find answers on my own and figured this was my best bet. What I am wondering is if anyone has any combination that will result in a disc brake rotor with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern working on a mustang 2 spindle. The set ups I see are running a granada type rotor with various metric calipers resulting in a 5x4 1/2 or 4 3/4 bolt pattern. I currently am running a 74 ish ford F truck disk that is roughly 11 3/4 inch diameter with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and a non metric gm caliper off a big car like an impala. This is all slid onto a 46 ford spindle using a seal adapter on the spindle for the back of the rotor and a different 'cup' put into the front side of the rotor to use the correct bearing. my stock wheels bolt right on and clear everything fine. For various reasons we have been talking about changing over to a mustang 2 front end and I would like to keep my stock wheels up front. In all honesty if I could get my rotors and calipers that I already have to work that'd be even better but I'd settle for being able to keep my stock 16's and not have to buy some aftermarket wheels that look like the stock ones but with the right bolt pattern. All right, so with that said anyone have any solutions?
I bought a kit from ECI uses Dekota rotors,had to use 16" wheels. I took off truck to lower selling price and if interested will sell minus brakes. 5on 5 1/2" for mustangII spindle. The kit uses 94-99 dodge ram 1500 4wd 11 5/8"rotors drilled to 5 on 5 1/2, 71-76 chevy caliper , ECI CT check it out.$625 kit. $300 plus shipping.
I had a similar interest...I wanted 5 x 5" bolt pattern. I did successfully adapt '79 Cadillac Seville rotors to stock Mustang II spindles, using a off the shelf bearings. I also made mounting brackets for big GM calipers that were easy to fab. I spent some time in the "bearing book" at my local old school parts house to find the right combo of ID and OD for the bearings, but they existed. The real headache was the seals. Couldn't find anything that had the correct ID/OD I needed. I had a local machine shop make some diameter reducers for the hub bore to use an available seal. That could be a pain someday, if and when the rotor requires replacement, but I think that is likely a long way off and I will deal with when it happens. Anyway, lots can be done with some good luck and ingenuity. Start by measuring the spindle bearing and seal surfaces and the axial spacing of the bearings and compare that to the hubs you want to use and go from there. You may need to make bearing 'bushings' or some such. The thing about the MMII spindle though, it already has a very generous sized bearing set, big as Galaxy models of the era, so the sizes may be closer to (or the same as) the truck hubs. Best wishes............ Ray
Thanks guys, With the dakota disc set up what all was involved? adapters, swapping bits and pieces ect? Hnstray, Thats a good thing to hear about the bearing set size, I was dreaming that maybe they would be big enough that the truck part much slide right on. but it is ford stuff, and god forbid any ford stuff bolt to other ford stuff It'll be at least 6 months before I get around to actually tearing the car apart at the soonest as life has plenty of priority's to stand in my way but I'm trying to get the whole thing sorted so I can make a parts list and figure out how to budget it. If I could keep the rotor and caliper that i have now, and thus the wheels and tires itd make things a whole lot cheaper. well maybe cheaper isn't the correct wording. It'd just cost me less haha. thanks guys
looks like you already added the info George, guess I glanced past your edit. Are they stock rotors? or do they have a different bearing/adapter to make them work? Those are the calipers i already have so it would seem feasable that i could could buy the ECI bracket and rotor and be rolling
http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/mustang_pinto_discbrake_conversions.html this looks like what your talking about, at the bottom? the photo looks like it doesn't require an adapter but photos lie...thats why im asking questions that probably sound redundant when I just looked at the web page. If its prices similar to the other kits they offer I could snag the "basic" kit for $180 ish and get brackets etc and then use everything else i already have save for purchasing whatever rotors they are using with the kit.
The cost of this kit is the hubs alm with bearings,brackets maybe different because of rortors,chevy calipers. I had a 56pu with 9" rear and wanted 1 spare. After buying kit couldn,t find 15" wheels that fit, So i bought 16" wheel and tires. I run it short time and wanted to sell truck.with the kit ,wheels,tire, over $1500. Took off put stock wheel had back on. Any way I now have a 53 f100 and thinking of going m2 but having hard time finding 9" rearend.I may reuse them if not sold. The kit overall was good(except dust cap would be better if screwed on).
So they are using dakota or ram rotors with some one off hub? Did I read that correctly? Might give them a call Monday I'll let you all know what I find out
I am a retired Dodge dealer. Dakota from '87 thru about '91 were 5 x 4 1/2" bolt pattern..... '92 up where 6 x 4 1/2". Dodge Ram used 5 x 5 1/2" in the later '90s onward...... Ray
we have dakota drop spindles on my brothers 93 d150. d150 5x5.5 rotors go right on dakota spindles if you want to go the s10 route, i can show you what to do to get 5x5.5. and you already have some of the parts.
Take a look at an 85 or so Dodge B150 Van front rotor. Here is the O'Reilly cheat sheet on it. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_C0062_1070794_3703&pt=C0062&ppt=C0009 They are a bit big being 11.75 but you should be able to get around that.a I've got a pair out in the shed and a MII spindle in the garage so I can run out and check to see if it is at all possible to make work.
I went out to the garage and shed and after digging my keys out from the garage floor with a stick under the door I dug out the 85 Dodge B150 rotor and played with it a bit. The spindle sat down in the hub and cleared the rotor but one might have to do a bit of clearance dressing on the spindle in a couple of spots. The inner bearing and seal didn't match up though. The style of seal on the Dodge hub hit the spindle. With the hub on the spindle there isn't enough room on the spindle to get the nut on it. <a href="http://s173.beta.photobucket.com/user/mr48chev/media/Dodge%20B150%20rotors%20on%20MII%20spindle/DSCN6688.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a> That issue might be able to be solved by having the hub machined so that the outer race sets further in the hub and then having the front face of the hub cut down the same amount. The good thing there is that at least on the stock Dodge hub there is plenty of metal there to be able to do just that. A guy still would have to solve the caliper bracket issue but guys have been building their own caliper brackets for these spindles for years.
Damn, I knew I should have checked the parts out. We had a F100, in and out of the shop, with a MII setup, and 5-on-5-1/2" rotors! It has been done, but I am unsure of the origin.
The Dekota rotor I said was wrong my mistake. The kit uses 94-99 dodge ram 1500 4wd 11 5/8"rotors drilled to 5 on 5 1/2,(no bearing on rotor) The hubs are drill for 5on 5 1/2 or 5on 5" 71-76 chevy caliper , This is there kit and made to work.The only thing you can buy stock is the calipers.
take 2. take one was deleted by fat thumbs on an ipod while trying to submit George, thank you for the additional photos and information. I do see one piece of information that seems conflicting on there sheet though. They make note of drilling the new bolt circle into the rotor when those rotors should have come from the factory with that bolt pattern? Though to be totally fair it does say they drilled it to the 5 inch circle. that paired with the dual pattern hub<-- which does not state its original application if any, makes me think they make a 5x5.5 and a 5x5 kit that is the same kit with a different drilled rotor so they just use the same instruction sheet for both set ups. seeing as its litteraly all the same parts i guess that would make enough since to me. Mr48chev, Thank you so much for taking the time to drag some stuff out and measure it. it really helps getting a real eye ball on the parts and hands on time to see what this all would actually intell. With the dodge rotor/hub being close enough to feasibly make work I'm curious how close they are to my existing Ford rotors/hubs. If Dodge is close enough to fit the ford maybe ford will be close enough to fit the ford? haha. I should have a little time this after noon to take a tape measure to my parts and or search around online for part measurements/specs of the ford part ~ again they are 74 ford truck parts 5x5.5 and 11 3/4 ~ what spots would be the best to measure to then compare to your dodge piece? I don't have a mustang spindle right now so the best i can do is measure and compare I guess. supervert, thank you for the offer. If i do for some reason go that route I will keep you in mind. Thank you all again. timm
I suggest measuring the distance in the hub from the seating surface of the bearing cups of your present hub...... and comparing that with the dimensions of the hub you want to use. That will give some insight as to the compatibility of the spindle length with the proposed hub. Also, the depth from the inner bearing seating surface to the backside of the rotor surface. Next, compare the OD of the bearing cups (or ID of the hub bore) of the hubs in question. Next, spindle spindle diameter where the bearing races and seals ride. These dimensions will quickly show if they are close enough to proceed. For instance, if the spindle length required for the Dodge hub is beyond that of the Mustang spindle's length...and/or cannot be modifed easily to fit.............move on. Ray
The f100/150 rotors are a lot deeper than the slip on dodge ones. On my f100 in my sig I am running a s10 clip with the dodge rotors because the f100 rotors where to deep to fit, so I took the f100 rotor and turned off the rotor and made a hub out of it and then slid on the dodge rotor. I did luck out that the s10 bearings fit right in the f100 rotor.
edit, i just checked and mII use the same a12 and a13 bearings. so if the hat height is good they should go on and you will probably just have to make caliper brakets f100 inner bearing MasterPro® Bearing/Seal - Wheel Bearing And Race Set Part Number: A13 Line: MPB 90 day limited warranty UPC: 44464992013 Front Inner Rear Wheel Drive Detailed Description Cone Bore: 1.3772" Cone Length: 0.66" Cone Radius: 0.203" Cone Outside Diameter: 2.328" Cup Length: 0.47 Cup Radius: 0.05" Cup Standout: 0.155" Cup Width: 0.625" f100 outer bearing MasterPro® Bearing/Seal - Wheel Bearing And Race Set Part Number: A12 Line: MPB 90 day limited warranty UPC: 44464992006 Front Outer Rear Wheel Drive Detailed Description Cone Bore: 0.8661" Cone Length: 0.655" Cone Radius: 0.05" Cone Outside Diameter: 1.781" Cup Length: 0.475 Cup Radius: 0.05" Cup Standout: 0.135" Cup Width: 0.61" f100 rotor BrakeBest® Select™ - Brake Rotor And Hub ***embly Part Number: 6032RGS Line: BBR 2 year limited warranty UPC: 829352442067 Front Rear Wheel Drive Detailed Description Overall Height: 5.39" Overall Diameter: 11.72" Bolt/Holes: 5 Bolt Circle Diameter: 5.50" Nominal Thickness: 1.19" Discard Thickness: 1.12" Type: Vented
or you can go this route to if needed, http://www.colemanracing.com/Custom-Products-You-Dream-It-We-Build-It-W9.aspx
I haven't figured out an inner bearing to make the Dodge van hub work but a bit of research might take care of that. The ID of the outer bearing is the same. If it were me right now I'd be all over that kit that the link was posted for. The end cost of doing what I suggested with the Dodge front rotors would probably equal the cost of that used setup by the time you were done.
so superverts info is showing that the truck rotors and the mustang ii stuff use the same inner and outer bearings etc. so my next step is to see how much 'deeper' the truck rotors are then the mustang rotors. Supervert, when you refer to the deepness of the ford rotor what are your measuring points? in my mind im seeing it almost as the 'back spacing' of the rotor like a wheel. from the furthest inboard edge to the mounting surface were the hub face would meet the rotor. does that make sense?
Dirt T im not entirely sure i understand what your getting at? It's not an issue of having front and back bolt patterns match as much as being able to use the stock 16 inch 5x5.5 bolt pattern wheels.
<a href="http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g98/timm95/?action=view&current=rotors.jpg" target="_blank"></a> from this if i am reading it correctly the f-100 rotor is 1.18 inches taller then the mustang unit, so our 'depth' should be the height measurement minus the thickness of the rotor itself at the wheel mounting surface?
you can see how they measure them here(usually I + B), the f100 rotor hit my s10 on the actual disc section, to i tuned it of on the lathe and then sid on the dodge rotor because the hat depth was like a inch less. if you go on rockauto or another parts store you find all of the measurements to cross reference. http://www.colemanracing.com/***ets/file/Hat_Rotor.pdf
I called Gayle Bridges in Hot Springs Arkansas and got my rotors for my '56 F100/ Mustang II and also my '32 with '48 spindles. Both use GM metric calipers and now have 5 on 5 1/2 BC.
see the f100 one may hit the spindle, but the id of the back side may alow it to clear since it has a larger opening. if not you can do like i did and cut off the rotor disc and make a hub out of it and then start trying different slip on 5on5.5 rotors. rotors to look for are suzuki sammy's (but they will be smaller solid) jeep cj different year dodge full size front, or rears after 02(mine where 2001 fronts) and some later f100 before they went metric
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