yeah, it was two tone primer for years, just got paint on it a couple months ago. 73k miles on the clock now, and I had run the motor in my truck for 20k miles before I got the car. I did freshen it up once, new rings and bearings. I've run 11.25 at 122, driving it to the strip and home again 250 miles each way. But I put drag radials on it first.
I want to do it I'm trying to muster the cohoneys!!! They sure are purty!! Im not gettin any younger. My car runs to good now, fast , and no problems. Time to mix it up and learn something new/ What does unreferenced carbs mean. ? I do need to keep the cost down.!!!
You guy,s are great! thank you for help.!!! Dyer seems pretty friendly but I'm a little worried they are going to tell me I need the $3000 blower carb set-up. I would like to know a little more about your set-ups??? Power Valve-I am confused about the power connection from the manifold to the carb?? I take it i cannot just bolt carbs to the top of the blower?? i need to sense the vacuum in the manifold??? I really plan on running minimul boost and cruising around(highway) tweaking and learning about the blower. I have 100,s of hours and several divorce threats from spending time in the garage. At this point its easier to find a new wife than a bitchin Pearl Orange and black Dodge Challenger. I will try to put a pic in my Avatar I would like to just copy one of your set-ups
Boost referenced power valves get their signal from the manifold where they see both vacuum and boost pressure. At idle they are closed by vacuum and under boost they are pinned open, giving full enrichment. As mentioned, you can get decent results even without them, but it may mean being a little rich when you don't need to be. The modification is pretty simple and the only "trick" feature on a blower specific carb. The rest is just jetting, squirters, power valve and secondary spring (vacuum) selection.
I can buy an unpolished 6-71 from Detroit Diesel on E-bay that has been re-clearanced for gas for 1/2 the cost of a new polished 6-71 Am I asking for trouble especially since i am learning??
Its not a V series its a 6-71 ??? I dnt know what im doing I'm probally better off to spend the money on a new one right?????
The 6-71 is used on the in-line Detroit Diesels. The "V" Series 6-71's are used on the V-8 Detroits. You want the regular 6-71. Keep looking for one that's been rebuilt. I found mine, from a guy that needed cash, for $125...
Bingo ! On hand choke , we used them on a 6-71 2-600cfm carters, 392 @ 1 to 1. ,full choke , pull the trigger and Boom she running push in choke and happy motoring ! New Member but Old Scout !
bigalow1 Mr squirrel and Mr 345 DeSoto Are telling your straight up, with lots of first hand knowledge... You can buy used stuff all day long but you will be chasing other bits and parts for weeks or months . If it was me , I would buy it all from one place that stands behind their stuff and can back it up with a whole company..... Like it said on TV , Pay me now OR pay me later... ME Do it right the first time and be done with it and having fun....... Good luck .....YOU CAN DO IT !
On the cam....Lots of overlap won't allow the chamber to contain boost. It's the boost/pressure that goes out the exhaust that's the big issue here.
Have you mentioned the lobe separtation on the cam, I run a 112 degree lunati blower cam in mine... yes a little less efficient as it overlaps the valves, but shit with that blower kicking in, you wont know the difference. Also you need boost referneced carbs, so that your not running lean under load. You'll burn a hole through a piston pretty quick, if you dont get enough fuel... On the initial start set that timing (initial at 20-26) and try and get an overal of 30-34. Then motor will last and will run cooler too.
If it has the 8 bolt mounting flange on the "bottom", then it's not a V series. (I put quotes on it because the flange is on the side when it's on the original diesel engine, but on the bottom when you put it on a car engine) Could be a good deal, could be not a good deal, hard to say without knowing more about it.
What is your carb set up Mr 345Desoto ?? Do use the remote vacuum Boost sensor?Your car is really cool! Do have a pic from the front?
What carb set-up are you running 32fivewindow Is boost referenig carbs a big deal. I read tech articles on it and it seems like you can do it yourself with Holley's
I am running two holley 750 doublepumpers. They are factory referenced, and yes it is a big deal on holleys. Carters/edelbrocks more or less "reference" themselves. I boost-referenced my friends 600 holleys and its not too hard. You have to vacume reference the power-valve from the "opposite side." Depends a lot on the peticular carb you run. On an engine that you drop 5 k in, why not. And it will respond better.
You usually get what you pay for and I would buy a blower from a reputable shop. I've had, three from Dyers, all good. Another thing, AFBs don't just reference themselves. They work on the same principle, just go about it in a different manner. Holleys use a diaphragm to actuate a valve and AFBs have a spring loaded piston connected to metering rods.
I have 2 Edelbrock 800 AFB Performer carbs new. Could I use these?????? without modification?? I dnt want the motor to lean out under load because I am trying to save $900.00 Again I am going to run 10percent under a take it easy till I figure out what I am doin g
I am sure they would be fine. I had two AFB 650 carbs on my 283" 4-71 set up progressive. It ran awesome. Edelbrock even has a base supercharger use tune suggestion in thier carb literature manual. You can download the carb manual from edebrock. It'll tell you everything you need to know to tune it. You just want to make sure the secondary metering rod springs are light enought to ennrichen when on WOT. On a normally aspirated engine, when you floor it, the vacuum reduces greatly or completely goes away and the stepped secondary rods that were held down by the vacuum plugging the hole, raise enrichening the circuit. On a supercharged engine, the carbs are on top of the blower and they always see vacuum under the carbs because in theory the supercharger is sucking under the carbs and pressurizing the intake under the blower. The vacuum directly under the carbs still reduces from cruising vacuum to something significantly lower when you open the throttles up. If you calibrate the secondary metering rods springs the secondaries will still enrichen when you open the throttles on top of the blower. The vacuum reduces - it just doesn't go completely away. Squirrel made a video and put a vacuum gauge directly under the carbs and rode around punching it occsionally. He also had a vacuum/boost gauge that was hooked to the manifold under the blower right next to it. You could see the difference in vacuum above and below the blower while he was driving and under WOT. I believe it demonstrated that there was siginificanlty reduced vacuum under the carbs at WOT. As long as there is a step in vacuum between cruising (not enriched) conditions and WOT (enriched conditions) you can find the spring that will work inbetween the two vacuums. Then to be safe - all you have to do is put the car on a chassis dyno and plot the A/F mixture at WOT to make sure you are not leaning out. You should do this anyway. Sounds like an awesome ride. Any pictures?
The dyno should have a broad band sensor that goes in your exhaust. With that they can chart the Air Fuel Ratio of the engine under load versus the full RPM range and they can tell if you are lean on the money or rich. Then you can adjust the carbs and do another pull to chart the differences. If you follow the set up in the Edelbrock manual you will most likely have a nice rich safe base set up until you can get to the dyno and check it. Just normal driving around you will not be creating boost and will not have to worry about it. Only under WOT when the boost is generated and the compression in the cylinders is raised is when you're at risk of detonation or a lean condition burning up your pistons.
Tudor, not saying your wrong (never actually used AFBs on a blower myself) but wouldn't you want a stiffer spring rather than a "lighter" on the metering rods? Even in full boogie, towards the tail end, I'd think there'd still be boost while starting to get some decent vacuum back. Is it that the vacuum is low to begin with? I'd love to see squirrels video.
You're right, a stiffer spring would raise the rod easier, enrichening the circuit quicker when the vacuum starts to go away. I'll go back and fix my earlier post, you just want it to be able enrichen when there is vacuum still present, or be able to erichen the secondaries with less of a drop in vacuum than what the carb would have on a N/A engine. An 8 spring would open with 8 in hg present while a 3 in hg spring opens at only 3 present. Same basic way a Holley Power Valve works. The manual says they come off the shelf with a 5 in-hg, so the secondary circuit enrichens when the vacuum drops to 5 in-hg under the carb, to be safe, you'd want to put in a 7 in-hg or 8 in-hg spring so it'll ernichen when the vacuum under the carb drops to 7 or 8 in-hg rather than waiting until it drops more to 5.
Great!!! Sounds like I may be able to use the Edel carbs with success. to ensure i do not have the carbs miss adjusted and lean out my Fresh engine, can I take it to a chassis Dyno, or do I have to pull the engine so they can test the fuel/air ratio on each header tube. (they bolt on special headers with bungs on each tube )
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