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Projects 60 El Camino

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by A. McGovern, Jan 30, 2011.

  1. If really needed some parts there's a guy named Rene in Whittier that sells used parts for Elcos and Sedan Deliveries. I've had 3 of the first gen (2 60's and 1 '59....still have my '60), great looking cars but you need to hoard parts.

    I'll see if I can get his number.

    The hardest parts (and most expensive) you have already. The bed trim, the trim behind the birds and the trim on the wing you can get easier then the other two (because they're recessed and get damaged less). You can also sell the tie down rails to get more parts money. The 1/4 panels are Elco only, the pinch weld under the rear gl*** is gonna be hard to make and also check under the grate in the bed.....I bet the well under the front is gone too.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
    Elcohaulic likes this.
  2. gotta56forme
    Joined: Feb 20, 2010
    Posts: 855

    gotta56forme
    Member
    from Seattle

    I dig those '59 & '60 Elco's. Other than the subs***ution of healthier metal, what sort of build vision/style do you have for it?

    Rootin' for ya,

    Gotta56forme/Scott
     
    A. McGovern likes this.
  3. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    Awesome, I appreciate that. I'll use 1" square just to be sure. For the floor, are you suggesting building a new floor support instead of repairing what may be rusted?? If I do that, what would you recommend using? I haven't looked at the floor supports, so hopefully I won't have to do that. Is it too much of a h***le to replace them? I've seen them listed on elcaminostore.com as well as through Sherman Parts.
     
  4. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    Scott, I dig em too. Sometimes feel like I was born in the wrong era...
    I'm thinking of a relatively mild build as far as styling goes. Keeping the original lines and trim, not getting rid of really anything except maybe the fender badges, and tailgate emblems to clean it up a little.
    I want modernized suspension, something that can handle the corners and hold it's own going down the road. Especially if I come across some punk kid weaving in and out of traffic in a tin can.
    Drivetrain I haven't really decided. I've thought about keeping the 348 stock (rebuilt obviously), throwing a good carb on it, and running it that way. Theres the possibility of taking the 348, boring and stroking it, and putting a fuel injection kit on for reliability and drivability sake. Or some combination of the two.
    Also thought about a 350 or some other SBC, easy to get parts for, dime a dozen, ole' reliable. I've played around with the idea of painting the engine the same color as the car, or sticking with chevy orange, and script valve covers. I'm not big on flashy accessories. (Although I do love me some chrome wheels.)
    Whatever engine combination I settle on, an Automatic will be mated to it.
    I want the car to be a cruiser, that can handle the corners when needed, but is comfortable to drive. I get tired of driving stick sometimes, my daily is an '06 ***mins with a 6 speed, and my '70 Elco is a 4 speed. Some days I want to drive it, but don't want to deal with shifting.
    Interior will be a light tone, like saddle or light tan, warm and inviting.

    Frago- So I've updated my thinking on this car. I want to keep original styling, but reserve the new suspension/fuel injection possibilities for my '70 elco. I want to stay period correct on this car. Find some old go fast goodies for the 348, houndstooth upholstery, etc.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
    gotta56forme likes this.
  5. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    What is the asking price for the rolling ch***is? Do you have other details?
     
  6. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 17,626

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    Wow....I see that car and I remember driving the parts El Camino for G&L auto wrecking in ElCajon back in 75 or 76. It was light blue like yours and had a 235/3 speed overdrive. Was tight and rust-free.
     
  7. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    1oldtimer, That would be great if you could get his number. Wouldn't hurt to have it in case I come across something I need. I am missing a few pieces of trim. What do the tie down rails fetch? I can always polish them up if needed. I read a few guys saying you can use impala/wagon quarters and trim them to fit because they're longer. Is that not true? I was looking at the well under the rear gl*** and thinking the same thing, it'll be challenging. The bed floor comes out doesn't it?
     
  8. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    I wish I had a more solid car, but you get what you pay for and this car was only $1500 in 2011
     
    Squablow likes this.
  9. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 3,329

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    Back when I had my 59 El Camino, I found a second car with good parts on it that the driver car needed. I found that much easier than trying to find things piece by piece.

    Mike
     
  10. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    I may end up having to do that. I’ll have to look around for something that fits the bill. The wife isn’t going to like that haha


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  11. The bed grate does unbolt, then at the front of the bed area is a well...no reason it's there but they rot out. There's a '60 on C/L above Bakersfield for $3500 you might be able to get some panels off of. On the 1/4 panels you can section them or use pieces from a 2 door but it's work. There's some one asking $1200 for a good polished pair of rails now on C/L.
     
  12. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    I bet that bed grate is a heavy ****er. I'll have to borrow my dads cherry picker to lift it out when I do that. I think that well under the bed is the floor board of the wagon. It's my understanding that the "smugglers box" on the later el caminos (which are also modeled on the wagon ch***is) is actually the foot board of the wagon. ***uming it's the same idea.
    I took a look at that '60 on C/L, the yellow one? Looks to be in pretty good shape. Too bad I don't have the cash to pick that up right now.
    Also saw those rails, that's more than I thought they'd go for! How sought after are those things?
     
  13. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    On the floor repair, it is really a judgement call. If all of the parts are available, that makes a huge difference. Also, if you plan on pulling the body off of the frame, you will probably want to run an "X" from the bed corners to the dash, with side braces in the center.
     
  14. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    Ive found full floor pans through Sherman parts, as well as El Camino Store, that's likely what I'll do. May have to fab something up for the front well under the bed floor. I'll be sure to brace. I've thought about taking the body off the frame but I'm not sure if I'll do that or not. If I do, I'll either put it on a rotisserie (which I'll make using the plans I have), or set the body up on blocks in the garage to make it easier to work on.
     
  15. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    I decided to take a walk out to the cover where the Elco is parked with my son. He’s home sick with the flu but the SoCal sun is shining and it’s a beautiful day. Took a gander at the car after talking with a few fellow H.A.M.B’ers. I’m a bit concerned about the frame. The holes cut for hydros are going to be a ***** to repair. I can see that already. My tailgate has rust at the bottom underneath the panel inside the bed. Luckily I have 3 of the 4 valances. I’m only missing the left rear. But the right rear is pretty beat. IMG_2003.JPG IMG_2004.JPG IMG_2006.JPG IMG_2007.JPG IMG_2008.JPG IMG_0002.JPG IMG_2014.JPG IMG_2009.JPG IMG_2010.JPG IMG_2011.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  16. Rusty Heaps
    Joined: May 19, 2011
    Posts: 1,005

    Rusty Heaps
    Member

    therre's a '60 El Camino being sold for parts on Craigslist in Greeneville,TN, I saw it on the Knoxville list
     
  17. Bruce A Lyke
    Joined: Jun 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,559

    Bruce A Lyke
    Member

    when building my wagon impala parts were used with repe***ively minor modifications.
    many parts will need to used, Carl Keefer is a good source .
    carlk60 on the HAMB
    Looking forward to the build.
     
  18. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    I didn't see it when I just looked. Any chance you can link the posting?

    When you say you use Impala parts, were they new body panels for an Impala or other parts? I'll look up Carl, thanks for the referral.
     
  19. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Ah, hydros equals hydraulics. Just my opinion, but you could be better off finding a less rusty example that needs the good stuff you have.
     
  20. 327Eric
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,203

    327Eric
    Member

    As rusty as she is, the rust you have is fairly typical of these cars. My 59 looked much nicer than yours, but , aside from the front fenders and rockers, the rust repair was the same, and was from the toeboards to the tailgate. You may want to remove the cab roof trim and check the metal underneath before you proceed.
     
  21. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    I've certainly thought about it. We'll see. I'm going to take a deeper look at it sometime in the near future. If once I start the build it turns out to be too much. I'll look for a donor car.

    That is re***uring. Honestly. I hope I can resurrect the car. It'd hate for it to go to waste. There were only 14,163 built, and every one that can't be saved takes away from the number of survivors left. I plan to remove the roof trim to check that metal, I do see some red underneath there, but hoping it's not through and through. What's the best way to go about removing that trim anyhow? I don't want to damage anything.
     
  22. Rusty Heaps
    Joined: May 19, 2011
    Posts: 1,005

    Rusty Heaps
    Member

     
  23. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,664

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Just cut all the rust off! :eek:

    [​IMG]
     
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  24. Chili Phil
    Joined: Jan 15, 2004
    Posts: 7,597

    Chili Phil
    Member

    Contact TERPU, here on the HAMB. He has a pretty good project one for sale. Might be cheaper to use parts from your Elky... Also, there's one being parted out on the Bako Craigslist.
     
  25. 59bones
    Joined: Dec 13, 2010
    Posts: 356

    59bones
    Member
    from Illinois

    Roof trim removal goes something like this - Start at the A- pillar and remove the two pieces (each side) just in front of the vent window. This will expose end screws for the upper and lower front windshield molding. Remove interior headliner trim to expose other speed nuts for rest of upper exterior stainless. Remove wiper arms, then sheet metal piece with holes in it for wipers. This will expose clips for lower windshield trim. Windshield done. Remove upper rear interior molding to expose clip screws at rear gl***, same as at front. Remove interior B pillar trim to get at more screws for little thin exterior trim at side/ends of back window. Remove two pieces of corner stainless bed trim with exposed screws from the exterior. The lower rear gl*** trim is the tuffy cuz the nuts are up in there and are probably rusted away. I think there is one exterior screw in the center. The stainless at the top of the doors just slips on/off but will be stuck cuz its got a bunch of gummy sealer underneath, I don't think there are any exterior screws. Done. Now see what the condition of your rusty relic is really like.... Probably rusted thru at the roof and at the bottom of the rear window. Both **** but rof can be an easy fix while lower rear window is a mother.

    Hope this helps. Good luck. IMG_0830.JPG
     
  26. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I would also take pictures during dis***embly, and find a lot of containers for hardware. Break it down into small groups with real specific labeling. It helps a lot during re***embly to grab the can with just the bolts for a specific item, instead of groveling through fifty bolts nuts and screws in a can that says "trim screws". I also don't use baggies, too damn easy to poke a hole in one and lose that unobtainable clip.
     
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  27. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    I see it now. I was looking in cars, not parts.

    That's a serious chop job!

    Thanks, I'll look him up. Bako, like Bakersfield?

    That's an awesome set of directions! Thank you, I'll be walking through this for sure. I'm hoping you're wrong about the roof, but you hit the nail on the head with the bottom of the rear window. Looks like im in for a real mother.

     
    Bowtie Coupe likes this.
  28. A. McGovern
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 77

    A. McGovern
    Member
    from Lancaster

    Very good advice. I was thinking of using bags, but then thinking long term, those will dry out and fall apart and I'll lose everything. I'll probably get some tupperware containers or hardware containers. I definitely don't want to lose hardware for this project. I didn't use the best methods of organizing the hardware for the 53 P/U and I'm regretting it.
     
    Bowtie Coupe likes this.
  29. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    These work purty well, along with coffee cans, cottage cheese containers and the like. I'm cheap.
     
    Bowtie Coupe likes this.

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