The "396" Chevy going in this is actually a 496 because of a left over 4-1/4 stroke crank from racing. It'll be reliable with a lot of low end. Oval port heads, mild hydraulic roller, 1-3/4 headers... For mounts I'm using 2-1/2" universal urethane pads made by Energy Suspension. The frame mounts were made from 5 pieces. 1/4" top, bottom and sides and 1/8" rolled edge. When they were put together it left a 1/4" pocket for the pad to sit in. Then an angle milled to reduce the step size when they were set on the frame. Next a base with a lip was made for the motor mount. There is a 1/2" stud on the bottom that goes through the bushing. A lock nut will be used on the bottom to tighten against the big washer and hold everything together. A piece of tubing machined to a height equal to a smashed bushing was used in place of the bushing for mock up and welding to keep everything straight and square. Everything was then finish welded.
Very pretty! I gotta ask, what are those front backing plates? Something that has been modified? They look smoother than the common Lincolns and repros.
Screw you and your ability to do anything.. [emoji23][emoji23] awesome build though! I'm in it for the long haul!! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They are late 40s early 50s Buick backing plates. I was going to show that next. They do require modification.
I used backingplates from a 55 Buick in front on my build. And yes they needed some modifications to fit. Will be intresting to se how you did.
WOW, great build. Gobs of creativity on the injection, frame and wheels......and your welds are art, too.
This thread is what makes this board great.Working as a machinist for over 40 years I can appreciate the level of worksmanship you have shown.Carry on.
Thanks for the positive responses. I did a lot of research on Buick brakes after I decided to use them on the front and back. The same 2 and 2-1/4 shoes had been used from the 40's to the early 70's. The early rear backing plates, late 40's and most if not all 50's, look the same and are very close to the correct 2-1/2" offset for a big bearing Ford housing end. So I bought four rear ones and figured I'd just modify them to make them fit instead of making spacers or adapter rings. I actually did the rear brakes before I finished the rear suspension. I want the tires tucked as close to the body as I can get them and with only 2-3/4 back space wheels it was going to be tight fitting a spring between the backing plates. I needed to know how much room was going to be left. Turned out not quite enough. To gain some room I welded up the E-brake holes, mounting holes and indents for the pads on the back side. Then straightened them on the press. I actually checked them before welding and found that none of the 4 were very flat from start. I set the backing plates up on the mill and cut the pads and lips down about 3/16. Now the backing plate will go into the drum all the way down until it bellow flush with the drum. Next I cut a section out of the middle and tacked it back together so with the 2-1/2 Ford offset the front of the shoes just clear. A lot of work for a 1/4" (1/2” total) that I'll never do again. I was able to get the 44-1/2 spring perch width for a 4" narrower Model A spring but its tight. For the front I made spacers and sleeves so the outside bearing on the stock Buick hub was in the right place for the nut to tighten against. All of the stock Buick bearings and seals are used to simplify things. Once the drums were mounted the amount of offset needed on the backing plate was figured. The centers were way too small so I cut them out just big enough to go over the spindles and made pockets to weld to them. Everthing was clamped flat and parallel, tacked then welded. They were put in the mill and a light cut was taken on the new cup faces and pads. Finally new spindle holes and bolt holes were put in on center. A little had to be milled off of the topof the spindle. Not sure about the scoop.
Without doubt one of the best builds on the H.A.M.B. Brilliant workmanship. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
What mad fab skills! Something we mere mortals can only dream about. I've come to realize how much of life I wasted when I see your results.
I've decided to make a few changes to the brakes. The backing plates are for 2" shoes. The front plates will get more modifications in the near future. A friend of mine that's helping with the car, Rodney, has a set of drums for 2-1/2" shoes that he has donated (at least for now). I've spent a lot of his money over the last few years helping him with cars. He drove 22 hrs. straight, got the car for me in AZ then straight through 22 hrs. back just to get a chance to spend a bunch of mine. With the fire wall and engine in place, the pedal location and shape was figured out. A 1/4" flange with 2 countersunk holes was welded to a piece of 1" round stock to use as a pivot shaft. A 1/2" thick boss with tapped holes was made for the shaft to bolt to. A hole the same shape was cut in the frame so the boss could be put in at an angle and still be at full thickness. Pieces of 1-3/8" round steel with 1" holes drilled through them are how the pedals started. A template for the pedal arms was made and two cut from 3/8" steel. They were left a little long and will be cut to length after being bent. A round curved pieces will be added to go through the firewall. Now the pedals could be mocked up with the MC to determine where everything needed to be. The hole below the pedal shaft is a sleeve that is welded to the backside of the wishbone mount before it is installed. A 2" long nut will be made so it is flush with the frame. Much easier when you need to remove it after the car is together. The MC mount was made from 1/4" and a plate to attach a brace for the end of the pedal shaft attached. I made the clutch linkage adjustable for a final ratio of 4, 5 or 6 to 1. A bell crank was made using 2 sleeves, tubing and 2 arms. After the pedals and bellcrank are welded and verified to work correctly, they were bored and oilite flanged bushings installed. The end of the clutch fork was cut off and tabs welded to it so it can be pulled instead of pushed. A bracket was made to bolt to the frame for one end of a 3/4" shaft that the bell crank will pivot on. The end of the shaft is drilled and tapped 1/2-20 to bolt it to the bracket. The shaft fits snug in the boss on the bracket for strength. the other end of the shaft has plate and gusset that bolts to threaded bungs in the x-member. 1/2" solid stainless rod was drilled and tapped for 3/8" teflon lined rod ends. A clutch return spring was added to the bell crank. A brake return spring goes between the pedal and bracket that bolts to the front of the MC.
Almost a shame to cover up that all that detail,beautiful welds and metal prep with the body. And I think I’d have to just clear coat it. Also the overhead pic a few posts back also did something for me as well. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I'm using a small Powermaster 55A alternator. There's not a whole lot of room down low to hide it. If you use one of these be sure to look at the amps at idle. They make small 55 and 75 amp alternators with either 7 or 30 amps at idle.
Magnificent workmanship. Been a blast to watch your build. Machine work, design and welding are all top notch. I love that you're fabbing components such as the pedals, alternator bracket, etc instead of catalog ordering.
The Jalopy Journal
