Hey there. I am currently looking for my first project ever! I have been scanning the internet doing as much research as I can before I purchase anything. Need to make sure I know what I am getting myself into (sort of..) Ideally I would like to buy a 61-65 F100 or 61-72 Chevy. Eventually lower it and build up a nice v8. Anyways! to the point. I have attached photos of two trucks I am currently considering. I have read a few threads about what to look for such as rust on the tailgate, torque box, bottom of cab/box. From these photos can anyone provide me with the pro's and con's of each, and shine some light on any common limitations with these truck (i.e how comfortable would a 302 or 351 fit into a uni body?) Any comments, criticisms, praise is appreciated. Like I said this will be my first project. (Ive only helped build a few motors in the past.) I will make an introduction thread once I have a project! Cheers, Brent
Given my choices I would prefer the unibody, but I have a soft spot for unibodies and that one looks pretty solid. Look for the bed floor to be rusted out that is a common malady with them. An SBF goes in pretty easy, I have never run one with an SBF, only Y blocks and FEs but an SBF fits just fine. You can probably buy anything you need to make the swap so that isn't an issue. I would not use the bread truck ****** in one if I was building a hot rod though. I would either go with a 3 or 4 speed or a C4 or C6.
Yep not a problem. We have been playing with those old trucks since they were new and we didn't build a new hump every time we changed the ****** in one.
302 and 351M have been in mine with plenty of room. AOD trans was a tight fit but didnt have to cut the floor for it still. You will have to make your own front cab mounts as nobody remakes them, but they arent that hard to make. Expect any of the fords of the era to need the front mounts and some floor work, youll see why when you tear into it. The defrost vent doesnt drain, and is a nice leaf collector. That Uni is pretty solid aside from the floor what I see in your pics. Just be ready, everything on the uni aside from the front clip is specific to them, doors, roof skin, box, tailgate and all.
Pretty much any engine will fit with no problems. I have a '62 uni with an FE/C6 in it. Lots of support parts and groups out there. We have members with everything from inline sixes to diesels to Ford Modular motors to BBC. Join Slick 60's ( http://www.slick60s.com/portal.php ) for all your answers. The unibody is a good pick but don't let anyone tell you they are "rare". They are no more rare than any other truck built for 3 years. The 61-64 are straight axle trucks and the 65-66 are twin I-beam trucks. hey all have front cab mount issues. Floor pans rust as do the front edge of the box floor. Tailgates rust and internal steps/rockers rust. Area around the tailgate hinges also rust on unibodies. Check the edges of the rook/drip rail areas. Lower cowl also traps dirt/sand/mud and rusts out. Same for bottom hinge pocket in door jambs. Radiator supports rust along the bottom edge and the cab corners on non-unibody trucks. The inner fenders rust right under the battery on the right side and under the hood hinges on both sides. There are a lot of vendors for parts. Cab mounts, floor pans, radiator supports, tailgates, gl***, trim, fenders and lights are all reproduced along with a lot of patch panels for the body. SPark
Thanks, I guess you partially touched on my next question. I live in a very inconvenient place in Canada, so everything I will have to order and ship it to family in Arizona and get them to send it to me to avoid duty OR i **** it up pay shipping and/or duty and have it delivered straight to my place. Based on your last comment, there is a decent amount of vendors for uni parts? I know LMC doesn't have too much (not to mention ive heard mixed reviews about their quality).
From the photos you supplied it looks like you have two decent choices. My preference would be the UNI AND to keep the yblock in it. Most of the truck you find that will be affordable all have some sort of issues with them. Usually rust but not always-I was lucky enough to find one that wasn't too bad. Mines a 64 with a 292 yblock. Parts house carry the usual stuff you will need and as LM14 said if you join up with Slick60's you can source stuff that way also. Like most things there's a learning curve. The uni's look pretty cool, but I have leaned to like the regular cab/bed trucks better. But I also use my old truck for what it was made for, just hauling stuff occasionally and working with it. The stock brakes on all of them are lousy even when repaired. I know because I did it and soon did it again with a complete disk front later. Mainly just be prepared for surprises on cost of "a project" My 2 cents… get something you can drive soon…it's sometimes better to get it out and have a little fun with it. Once you start taking them apart, they never go back together fast or cheap!
Looking at those pics again… you can see in the pic of the 64 on the trailer, that the door gap at the front of the fender is opened up more at the bottom. This is a sign of bad front body mounts. It's fixable but is an indicator of more issues unseen. I personally am not interested in this kind of extra work on this kind of vehicle. It can be fixed though.
As a first time project I would suggest the 64 as sheetmetal parts are more available than for the uni. Unless somebody has already changed the motor in the 64, it will have a 292 in it as well.
A lot of guys in Canada on the Slick 60's site. Most ship to a US address and drop over the border to pick it up or ship to family. LMC is a last choice for parts. http://www.flashbackf100s.com/ sells only the best stuff for slicks and is a player in Slicks big time. About the only parts that are truly different on a uni vs a regular truck is 1. Uni's don't have cab corners 2. Uni's have a torque box where the box/cab meet - these rust out 3. Taillights are different but both styles are available new 4. Uni's use a different headliner but both styles are available new 5. Uni doors have a different body line (straight) than other trucks(dipped) 6. Tailgate is totally different as is all the hardware. It's all available new. 7. Front clips are the same from the bumper to the firewall. 8. Gl*** is the same with the exception of a big back window uni 9. No rear cab mount on a unibody but the holes are punced in the frame for tem and rear cab mounts from a standard cab truck bolt right up making them stiffer. 10. All the seals, window gaskets, lights, suspension is easy to find new. Pick what you like the looks of best. Plenty of parts around for all styles. SPark
Thanks I really appreciate it! I've also found a 1970 F100 with a 360. Fortunately this one is 15 mins form my house so I plan on checking it out. I did some research into the 360 and i most certainly would turn it into a 390. It's not as old as I was originally hoping, but I feel like for a first project it may be easier to learn on. The guy only had one photo available which is ****ty, but I will check it out this week. Any suggestions for a 70?
No experience there except stealing my dad's to go riding around in the mid 70's. We don't talk much about that. SPark
A 1970 ford is a nice pu as well . They are a nice handling truck. 1967 -1972 are the same body style ,so lots of new and used parts available. Also the driveline parts are fairly available as truck will have a 300 six cylinder or 302 or 390 . The front inner fender wells are usually the first to rust away so have a good look there . They are a good truck ,you wont be disappointed
Are all 70's I Beam suspension ? Im digging into it a bit more. What could a guy expect to spend on lowering it if it has I beams (properly)
'70s Chevy is independent and '70s Ford are twin I beam. The Chevy lowering is easy peasy the Ford not so much. They make dropped I beams for Fords or if you don't drop it much they make adjustable king pin bushings. major pain in the ****. Stay traditional and avoid the headaches.
The 67-72 have a weird two piece bed that will sometimes rust/come apart above the belt line. If it's not too bad you can fill it back in with seam sealer. Otherwise they're great trucks.
I get that a lot! If it makes a difference, all of these trucks are 20-30 years older than me haha. Original doesn't have the same appeal to me, as it would to my father! haha But i will keep diggin, im gettin a lot of emails from the kijiji ad i posted but no pictures! So this weekend i will be doing a tour. but i appreciate the advice!
Original doesn't appeal to anyone other then people who don't belong here. LOL You will find that the older stuff is easier to work with when it comes to mods then the newer stuff. But Ford wise I do like the idea of mixing the coil spring suspension with the earlier pre twin I beam axles, if that makes one wonder a little bit about possibilities.
What is the after market like for 62 quarter panels. a guy emailed me today and he has one with no motor, but 2 of the panels look pretty messed up. google hasnt provided me much, besides the national part depot e catalog and the LMC catalog.
I tried to join that site and it still says my account hasn't been activated, been quite awhile now. I also sent an email to the admin to prove I wasn't a bot or a spammer. Kinda bummed, looks like a good site for the trucks. Well that's weird, after I posted this I got an email that acknowledged my membership, just needs to be ok'd by an admin =)
Of the 3 trucks you mentioned, the uni-body is worth the most. All 3 trucks will cost about the same to restore. I'm building a 64 F100 to sell. I had a 68 F100 with a 360 and it used a lot of gas and had a lot of low end torque. The 64 will have an AOD and 302 shortly and after sitting in a fence row for 15 years I had to replace a lot of metal because of rust. The biggest problem with the 70 is the front frame mounts rust away and let the cab sag. My 64 showed a small amount of rust, then I took off the old paint and you could see with a light on the back side it had rust pin holes in it
good to know thanks. The 64 Sold yesterday. Im goign to look at the 70 after work today. i was sent pics of a 67 today too. Not in bad condition. I'd have to find a bigger motor for it seeing as I would like a v8. Pictures wont all load :'(
Nothin' on that can't be repaired but you can find quarters and the like for them if you must. For 600 dollars I would be on that one like a duck on a June Bug.
Just an FYI and not to rain on your parade, if you go with anything newer then about 64 or 5 don't bring your questions here. Here is a link to our guidelines if you haven't already read them. http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-h-a-m-b-rules-guidelines.44274/ Not to be mean we just are not about late model.
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