Projects '61 Falcon Street/Strip Gasser Build

Not sure what carb your running but have you tried opening up the secondary’s a bit? Did this with my Holley 950 hp and was able to get the transition slot squared up. One other thing I did was the wire trick in the idle feed restrictors helped along with a power valve change. Helped with idle and light cruise.

 

I didn't try any other tuning before I sent it off. I decided to let the pro's tune it. Idle feed restrictors would have helped.

 

Sure wish I still lived in Shadydale. I could come get a ride in that Hot Rod.

 

Damn it man , you hit a grand slam ! Fine Fine work. I’d be proud of that one myself x10 !

 

Thanks!

 

Yep, that's the way an old Falcon oughta look - and sound! Perfect.

 

Road testing - and the rearview mirror needs some super glue!

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=991637609127990

 

Hows the clutch?

 

Not bad. I shortened the pedal to reduce the travel. It still releases and engages a little late in the travel but I'm getting used to it.

 

Better than it engaging right off the floor and binding.

 

I run my clutch pedal high, just short of uncomfortable in normal driving but in hard driving not an issue because my foot doesn't vacate the pedal..

 

She's running pretty good.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=2749115688576577

I'm fighting a hot-start issue, though. The starter will turn over at almost full speed but it doesn't want to light off until it cools for a couple of hours. 4-5 psi fuel pressure, 8 deg initial timing, phenolic spacer added, all ignition voltage and ground tests p*** and the coil resistance is within spec. 200 psi cranking pressure might have something to do with it.
I'm wondering if the coil is getting affected by heat. It's mounted to the head on a 3/4" wood spacer.

 

If it’s spinning at full speed , it takes : fuel , timing , spark . What type of ignition ? I’m sorry I haven’t followed word for word . As far as timing on a HP engine , I always set timing at 37-40 degrees advance at 2000K , let the initial timing fall where it does . Long overlap is tough to time

 

Is your ignition wired to full 12v in crank mode ?

 

It's a Pertronix Ignitor III distributor and coil. The Kaase P-51 heads like 28-30 deg BTDC and I'm set at 29 BTDC @ 3000 rpm. I have 10.35V cold and 9.96V hot at coil with ignition on; spec is 8.0-11.5V per Pertronix. Cranking coil voltage is 9.0V cold and 8.8V hot; spec is 8.0-9.5V.

 

I’d give it another 7-8 degrees of timing for starters, if you can limit the total advance to 28-30 degrees.

 

If you hold the throttle wide open will it fire after a few cranks? I suspect your needle and seats are leaking. If you have a pressure gauge by the carb see how quick it drops after shut down at idle. Also check the air bleeds , if one is plugged it will syphon down fuel on shut down

 

I bumped it up from 8 to 12 BTDC but it dieseled when shut off.

 

You might be on to something with the needle and seat. This Holley in-tank electric returnless pump is supposed to run 6 psi. I'm seeing 4-5 psi at idle but occasionally the fuel gage needle swings wildly from 1-6 psi. Pressure drops pretty quickly to 1 psi after shutdown. I suspected the pump but I'll change needles and seat to see what happens.

 

The needle and seat were good but I changed them out anyway. Thanks to your suggestion, I found that it will hot start when you hold the throttle wide open. I can't believe I didn't think of that but I've never had that problem.

Maybe this will help someone else. Research revealed that when the fuel heat soaks after sitting in a hot engine, the fuel will expand enough to leak past the needle and seat and result in an overly rich manifold condition. The solution is to hold the throttle open to lean out the mixture. You do have to rev it a bit until the idle cleans up.

 

I set the firewall so far back that I couldn't use the OEM wipers with linkage. In fact the RH side of the firewall is completely behind the cowl wiper hole.
I went with a single United Pacific A6236 wiper motor on the driver's side. It's small and light but the wiper arm is short and skimpy. The arm uses a pinch-type clamp. I hogged out the stock wiper arm and inserted the United Pacific clamp into it. It works well enough.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1199576921168314

 

Do you have room for a phenolic spacer under the carb? Also , next time you shut it down open the hood and let it sit 15 minutes and see how it starts.

 

Are you sure the power valve is good and not leaking through , draining the carb ., into the intake ? Maybe ?

 

I only had room for a short spacer so I added a 5/16" thick Edelbrock nitrile rubber spacer and insulated the carb feed line. If you don't open the throttle to warm start it, it has to sit a couple hours before it will crank.

 

It's possible but I swapped out the PV before I changed the needle and seat.

 

Deiseling has nothing to do with the timing....when the ignition is off, there is no spark
No spark means it can't be timing keeping it running..
After run-on like that is because the primary throttle plates are open too far and the engine is siphoning fuel from the transition circuit and so then lean autoigniting.

You need to work on the carb I think.

Great looking car, I like the execution.
I hope you don't take offense to this, but to be honest on video to me the car sounds weak, considering the parts you are using. It should flat RIP the tires loose at a low gear roll, boil them on an unprepped rough surface road.
Maybe it just needs a bunch of tuning?.

I have heard mounting the coil to the head can be hard on coil life, due to vibration being transmitted to it stronger.....but factory mounted plenty of them on the intake manifolds so the head deal sounds more like a wive's tale, but I don't know??

 

If you determine the blades are open too far . Years ago we would drill a super small hole in the primary blades that would allow them to close past the mid circuit slots

 

Just to add, the hole doesn't allow them to close, it allows you to close the throttle blades to where they should be while still allowing some extra air into the engine.

Before I did that I would remove the carb, flip it over, adjust the throttle blades until the slot exposed is about as long as the slot is wide. Use the idle screw for the primaries, and there's an adjustment on the secondaries that can be hidden depending on your model of carb, but all Holleys are adjustable. Then if you can't get it to run right you can turn to permanent mods like drilling holes to get it going.

 

What's funny is I never thought about it like that because if I advanced timing on my vehicles too high they pinged and dieseled. My last car had 14 degrees initial and ran beautifully on 89 ethanol free with no dieseling but dieseled like crazy on 93 with 10% ethanol. If I took a couple degrees away it never dieseled