I hate swapping (and buying) parts trying fix stuff. A few voltage drop tests with any cheap voltmeter will quickly provide a road map as to what is really broken, what connections need cleaning, which cables are too small or have internal problems, etc. disregard the references to toyota terminal numbering. The picture is pretty good. May have to CTRL and scroll wheel to zoom it big enough to see http://diychamber.com/2010/03/voltage-drop-test-guide-for-toyota-starting-systems/
Wait a minute. Are you telling me that lifting up the shifter to start the car wasn't factory installed on all Fords? I guess I have just been lucky enough to get this rare option on every old Ford I have ever owned.
Does the battery ground strap go directly to engine? The "moveable pole shoe" starters draw a lot of voltage and amps upon initialization. I have gone so far as to connect ground cable directly to starter mounting bolt on Fords.
Do you have the old starter? There are two different-length starter shafts for early Fords. If you put the shorter one in, instead of the longer one, the starter drive will stay engaged with the flex plate and you'll only get a click. If you pull the inspection plate between the engine and trans, you'll be able to see if the starter drive is engaged with the flex plate with the key off. It shouldn't be.
I would skip the dielectric grease right now. You want all your connections clean, dry and tight. Mr48Chevy has a good tip there regarding jumping or remote starting the solenoid. Everyone with an old car should have a remote start box on hand. Bob
this isnt a good idea either, that switch is there for a reason. You probably wont miss it,,, till you run over someone or something.
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