Rewiring my hotrod with a rebel harness and with the switch pulled out only one lug is hot. Doesnt match the diagram l have. I know l can run a relay off of it just wondering if anyone has a work around. From the factory the switch has the fuse panel attached. Thanks
I did it on my 64 Fairlane, when I get home tonight I will look you have to jumper two of the terminals together.
Yep, that diagram is wrong. That switch should have two feeds to it, one for the headlights and one for everything else. To identify the second feed, turn the dimmer until the 'dome light' would be on (with the main switch 'off'). You should have continuity between two terminals. Mark those. Pull the switch to 'park'; you should now have continuity to the taillight/dash circuit. Turn 'off' the dome light (with the 'park' still on). One of the terminals that you identified first that still has continuity to the taillights is the incoming power feed. I'll note that if you have a new aftermarket replacement switch, they're pretty ****py quality; I went though several on a '64 Comet I had, finally installed a good used OEM switch. Swapping to a '65-67 switch will eliminate the gl*** fuses on the switch, but will require a different switch plug.
1. Agree with general quality of aftermarket switches. OEM used is easy to open up, grese and clean, etc. 2. Have a look at the plastic on the terminal block of the switch...OEM and most aftermarket ones are marked with letters just like that diagram, only correct. You will most likely note the 2 B terminals.
Thanks for all the replys. I still have my factory one and a couple of spare parts trucks. I purchased a new one just so l thought it would be one less thing l need to worry about. I will look at all my stuff tonight!
I bought their HL switch when I got my Kwik Wire harness. I figured it would ward off evil spirits between the OG Ford switch. Quality of the new switch seems okay and I was able to use the Ford knob on it.
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