62 Thunderbird rear brakes getting hot

Glad to see you heeded my advice to search for additional items on VTCI's Forum (see post #25). This issue was pointed out in the late '80s when an article in the club's magazine, Thunderbird Scoop, called out the error in the factory shop manual re. primary/secondary shoes on wrong sides. That's part of the reason why I have been a staunch advocate of marque clubs that focus on a particular model in greater depth and detail. Of course, being VTCI's past editor, president and their current Technical Director kind of makes me biased .

 

I didn't change anything at all until after the first "Cook up" Then I changed the shoes following the factory manual instructions.

 

well now everything will be new.I am curious how long had you driven with original backward shoes?not faulting you or whoever for them being backwards probably followed the manual at the time.if they work now they were probably dragging all along.it should be a lot easier on gas and trans now.drive and enjoy

 

As has been noted, the e brake cables come in from the rear on the 62 Tbird. That means some internal parts are also reversed, as I recall from my 62 roadster.

If the self adjusters are placed on the rear as usual, I believe the brakes may adjust when going forward rather than backing up. That could cause brakes to always being in hard contact with the drums.

I modified the e brakes on a 57 Chev rear I had in my 32 Ford back in the 70s.

I agree, flexible brake hose can be a big issue when they get old.

Jack

 

Well I fitted the new/master cylinder today along with another set of brake shoes, This time the shoes are original ford frames with good quality lining bonded on here in NZ. I changed the shoes because I was told the Chinese ones might be the problem ( It was worth a try)

We went for a long drive and checked things a few times. For the first few miles all was ok then the rears started to get hot again. Not as hot as they have been but still hotter than they should be.

Came back home got it off the ground and checked for residual pressure which there was none then I checked the adjustment on the drums.
I turned the adjuster wheel until the shoes touched the drums and then backed them off 3/4 of a turn as per the factory manual.

I rotated the wheel backwards by hand and it span freely then forwards and straight away it locked up and grabbed. Bingo!!!!!

I have never been able to get this dam thing to do this before but tonight I did. The only thing I have done is to reverse the shoes so the primary is at the front and the secondary is at the rear.

In all the pictures and information I look at it shows this is how it should be set up. But in all of these pictures the park brake cable is coming in from the front and as we discussed the 62 T Bird park brake comes in from the rear.

I am unsure if the reward entry of the park brake cable has an impact on the placement of the shoes

I am now positive the issue is not hydraulic. I still cant figure out what is wrong though.

 

Have you got the stronger of the two top return springs on the front (primary) shoe??

 

if you don't smell the brakes...then it may be a heat transference like an axle bearing....

 

ratman,
I have been following your post because I've worked with Bendix duo-servo drum brakes for many years but never knew, or have seen park cables coming in from the rear, as on your T-Bird. I finally found a couple of pictures to verify the brake layout.
The brake is ***embled almost like any other Bendix of this type; that is, the short primary lining goes to the front and longer secondary to the rear. The self adjuster parts are ***embled normally on the secondary rear shoe. The only difference is the park lever, which now attaches to the primary front shoe instead of the secondary rear.
The same 11 1/32 X 2 1/2" rear shoes, Bendix #264, were used from '59 (as far back as my book goes) up through '62. Both front and rear shoes changed in '63.
I would look again at the park cables. It was suggested by finn back on post # 37 to completely disconnect the cables from the shoes, but I did not see you follow through.
It's possible the secondary cables are partially frozen, and normal rear suspension movement could activate/pull on one or more rear cables, staying in this position, and resulting in partial park application.
You can just remove the horizontal park strut and spring from each brake if you don't want to pull the cables from the backing plates. Grab the park levers and return them to their forward positions. ( You may need a screw driver/pry bar if the cables are sticking))
Re-adjust the brake, backing off 10-12 notches from a locked drum, and center the shoes by eye and feeling the shoe distance from lining to back plate about 9 and 3 o'clock.
Now give it another try.

 

Thanks for the advise V8 Bob, I will go and check again but I have had both rear e brake cables completely out for inspection. Both looked in good condition. I lubricated them and re installed.

What I don't understand is now the right rear free wheels while rotating the wheel in reverse while up on the axle stands and grabs when you rotate it forwards.

I going to go and remove everything from the wheel ***embly measure and re check.

This is past ridiculous. I have been a tradesman fitter turner machinest for 36 years, had hot rods for the same period and I cannot get a set of 9" Ford brakes to work. I also have two other cars with 9" diffs and I cant see anything different apart from the freaking e brake cable entry point.

I appreciate all the help.
Thanks
Peter

 

Don't know how why or what but the brakes now run as per normal.

We went out on what we call the Hell Road which is full of hills and tight turns, took along a digital thermometer and everything stayed within the normal temp range.

Its seems this has happened to other 62 T Bird owners who also couldn't figure it out.

Thanks to everybody for there help.