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Technical 63 Country Squire late 1/2 2/3 shift

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ryans65, Aug 24, 2025 at 2:06 PM.

  1. Ryans65
    Joined: Apr 12, 2018
    Posts: 97

    Ryans65
    Member
    from Yulee FL

    Good afternoon Hambers,

    Here's a brief rundown of what I'm dealing with on my country squire:

    stock 352
    autolite 2100
    recently overhauled (not by me) MX

    The late shifting started when I pulled the sad autolite 2150 that was installed at some point and put in the correct 2100. I also had to redo some incorrect throttle linkage and set the bell crank per the factory ford manual. I've adjusted curb idle at about 500 rpm, it drives and idles very nicely, no rpm hunting, no exhaust pops, nothing.

    The only piece of information I am unsure about during the carb swap was when I was messing with the throttle linkage I was trying to make sure the linkage clears a power booster T installed at some point by the previous owner and while turning the throttle through its full range I felt it hit the kick down lever and it had some resistance but then free'd up. I didn't think anything about it until I went for a drive after all the carb work and noticed it shifting pretty high, approx. 30-35 1/2 and up to about 60 2/3. It did not do this before the carb was installed. I thought perhaps since this carb is giving the correct vacuum signal at idle then it must be the modulator, I adjusted the modulator out several times, driving after each change but no luck. The screw was protruding slightly past the vacuum nipple. I replaced both soft vacuum lines, checked that the modulator held vacuum with my manual pump and it all checked out. I thought surely the modulator was sticking or something so I replaced it, no change. I dropped the pan, saw what I think is normal fine metallic particles and some other fuzzies but nothing out of the ordinary, inside looked remarkably clean. New Type F fluid, adjusted the level in neutral while warm, no change. Transmission has a great shift through the gears, including reverse but it will not shift earlier than the aforementioned speeds. I can check pressures per the manual if that's what I need to do but my gut tells me I'm missing something simple but I was not a tranny guy when I worked on cars. Everything else I own is a manual, even my diesel truck.... this old wagon might be too if this tranny needs to come out!! Long winded I know but I'm sorta stuck at the moment. Thank you HAMB.
     
  2. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,950

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What is your manifold vacuum at idle? Have you checked the vacuum at the modulator with a gauge? It should be the same and the modulator must be connected to manifold vacuum.
     
  3. As stated above, make sure the vacuum modulator is connected to a source of full manifold vacuum. Connect a vacuum gauge also to full manifold vacuum with enough hose to route it to the inside of the car. Drive it for a spell and observe the vacuum at idle, under acceleration and at a steady cruising speed of 30 to 50 mph and report back here with your findings.
     
  4. Ryans65
    Joined: Apr 12, 2018
    Posts: 97

    Ryans65
    Member
    from Yulee FL

    Thank you both-

    Vacuum at warm idle is 18-19, I'll hook up a T and go for a ride.
     
  5. Oneball
    Joined: Jul 30, 2023
    Posts: 1,517

    Oneball
    Member

    I’ve got a 62 Merc on a 2100. The only thing the throttle linkage does is activate the kickdown. Disconnect the throttle link to the gearbox and see if it is the same. I put a new vac can on mine and it made the change perfect. The change was just harsh in mine not early or late.
     
  6. Ryans65
    Joined: Apr 12, 2018
    Posts: 97

    Ryans65
    Member
    from Yulee FL

    I'll try this too, thank you.

    On my short drive to the gas station I saw about 15in at part throttle up to let's say 35/40 then a steady drop down to 5 or so at moderate to 3/4 throttle up to about 55. This was read from a vacuum T between the manifold and the modulator.
     
  7. Ryans65
    Joined: Apr 12, 2018
    Posts: 97

    Ryans65
    Member
    from Yulee FL

    Another thing I'm probably wrong about but need to ask is if there should be any resistance on the kickdown rod if I try to actuate it by hand unhooked from the throttle bell crank.
     
  8. Oneball
    Joined: Jul 30, 2023
    Posts: 1,517

    Oneball
    Member

    As you move the rod it’ll be loose until you get to a point where it activates the kickdown mechanism and then it’ll have the resistance of say a light switch. It just clicks on.
     
  9. Ryans65
    Joined: Apr 12, 2018
    Posts: 97

    Ryans65
    Member
    from Yulee FL

    Ok, that's interesting, this one has zero feel in its full range of movement, no click no resistance.
     
  10. Oneball
    Joined: Jul 30, 2023
    Posts: 1,517

    Oneball
    Member

    The range of movement should be really quite small. Then it just clicks. It’s not like the throttle. It’s only perhaps the last 1/4 inch of pedal travel that it moves through.
     
  11. Oneball
    Joined: Jul 30, 2023
    Posts: 1,517

    Oneball
    Member

    Crawl underneath and see what it feels like when you move the lever on the trans itself.
     
  12. Ryans65
    Joined: Apr 12, 2018
    Posts: 97

    Ryans65
    Member
    from Yulee FL

    Just unhooked both ends of the kickdown rod so I could feel the actual lever, it has about 3/8 travel but is loose with no distinct detent or click or anything.
     

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