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Technical 63 impala location for 2nd sender

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Eth727, Jan 23, 2026.

  1. Eth727
    Joined: Jun 20, 2024
    Posts: 354

    Eth727

    IMG_8952.jpeg Hey guys I’ve got a stock 63 impala with 327. I’m looking to install coolant temp gauge. It was screwed into where the idiot lights go but have reinstalled the idiot lights to have them working but now I don’t know where to put the accessory coolant temp sender.
     
  2. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 3,650

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    You can buy a thermostat housing with a temp port

    upload_2026-1-24_8-8-17.png

    Better still
    Put the gauge sender back into the intake.
    Then solder a port to your radiator tank [below water level]
    Wires are easy to extend

    While you're at it , give the radiator a good clean. and use a 14psi recovery cap.
    Then install a radiator overflow expansion tank [on the support panel]
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2026
    hrm2k, Just Gary and COCONUTS like this.
  3. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,205

    fastcar1953
    Member

    Put it in the head.
     
    egads, Bandit Billy and Budget36 like this.
  4. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,881

    goldmountain

    You can drill and tap your intake manifold into the coolant p***age between the first two mounting bolts holding the intake manifold for 1/2" NPT.
     
  5. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 8,522

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    And leave the teflon tape for something else - use Permatex 3H. Tape can cause false reading ...
     
  6. Onemansjunk
    Joined: Nov 30, 2008
    Posts: 576

    Onemansjunk
    Member
    from Modesto,CA

    Or use the teflon tape, then start a new thread called, "My Temp Gauge Ain't Reading Right".
     
    05snopro440 likes this.
  7. Eth727
    Joined: Jun 20, 2024
    Posts: 354

    Eth727

    I bought that sender with the tape on it
     
  8. Eth727
    Joined: Jun 20, 2024
    Posts: 354

    Eth727

  9. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 16,226

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I bought a bottle of aspirin with a cotton ball in it, I removed the cotton. I think you will find you need to remove the Teflon tape as well. Check the head for a plug in the water jacket. If it doesn't have one, add the T-stat cover like is shown above.
     
    down-the-road likes this.
  10. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 38,197

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    If it is the 1963 327 heads, there are no threaded plugs in the cylinder heads. I believe that 68 was the first year for that
     
    RICH B, 427 sleeper and Johnny Gee like this.
  11. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 3,650

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    That sender doesn't ground via the threads
    It is a 2 terminal idiot light sender that uses a separate ground wire

    What temp gauge are you using OEM or Aftermarket?

    You could put the temp gauge sender back into the same port. [as before]

    Then pick up another idiot light sender with a 1/4" NPT thread, and screw that into the drain plug port at the bottom of the radiator.
    Then extend the idiot light wire with a male/female spades to the existing harness.

    If you're budget friendly [aka "cheap"] bore out the 1/4"npt port and run a 3/8"npt tap into the same boss.
    Then use your existing idiot light sender.

    Later if you decide to change this configuration ,you can swap this for a 3/8"npt drain valve [approx $7]
     
    down-the-road and skooch like this.
  12. 24riverview
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,134

    24riverview
    Member

    Disagree with this, this is actually 2 senders in one, cold and hot. Both sides need to ground through housing.
     
    down-the-road and egads like this.
  13. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,467

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    This is iffy. Sender or temp probe will come in contact with the thermostat.
     
    427 sleeper likes this.
  14. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 38,197

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    I would just abandon the idiot lights and run just the gauge…..
     
    Onemansjunk, 427 sleeper and Kerrynzl like this.
  15. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 3,650

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    OK!
    The RHD Impalas and Laurentians sold down our way didn't have idiot lights at all.
    Maybe GM overestimated the competence of Kiwi drivers [less idiotic]

    upload_2026-1-24_17-29-44.png

    upload_2026-1-24_17-36-1.png
     
  16. Eth727
    Joined: Jun 20, 2024
    Posts: 354

    Eth727

    I think I’ll just go back and reinstall the temp gauge. I’m an idiot that can’t figure out the idiot light
     
    Kerrynzl likes this.
  17. 24riverview
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,134

    24riverview
    Member

    With the key on ground the wires at the sender, should turn on both lights. If it does connect the light green to the terminal that turns the cold light on, dark green to the other one. If the lights don't come on, you have an issue under the dash or with the firewall connector.
     
  18. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,344

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    If the temperature gauge is electric there is a way to make the idiot lights work from the gauge sensor. Using an LM393 comparator IC and some resistors, a circuit can be made that compares < 150f and > 250f from the sensor and sends signals to both cold and hot idiot lights. I am going to do this for my 59 Oldsmobile.
     

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