Oh and ignore the parts pricing...thats obviously if I had him supply pistons and rings ect...he said they would be cast flat tops..didnt get Into brand tho. Def don't wanna go on the cheap. I want the engine to last most of all. Also he mentioned going to a retro roller setup if I wanted ...says he does it to all the older small blocks he does now but obviously quite a bit more money. I know ill probably have more money wrapped up in this compared to just building a 350 or buying something to throw in it.
As a comment on "picking your pockets"...the pricing shown on his quote seems to be the going rate these days. Around here, those numbers would be celebrated as economical!
Is going 40 over safe on this block? He didnt seem worried about even going 60 but obviously didn't want to if he didn't have to
Stock 283ci bored .030 Edelbrock RPM Performer Intake and 600cfm carb Comp Cam (480/480 Lift) Comp Cam 1.6 Roller Tip Rockers Comp Cam Push Rods and Lifter Comp Cam Double Roller Timing Chain Stock Forge Steel Crank Gridle and splash shield Eagle "I" Beam Rods TRW 11 to 1 Pistons 305 HO Heads with 2.02/1.88 Valves Dual Springs Valve Springs Saw this another forum...seemed like a cool biuld?
Sounds like a good combination - though it isn't really a totally budget build at this point. If I was going to put all of that into a 283, I'd probably just build a 350. Buy Hey - it is your car/engine, not mine! LOL
Usually not a problem but always depends on the particular block. In the 60's, boring a 283 block 1/8" (.125) over was common for building a 301. Nowadays the issue is piston availability.
And 2.02 valves will hit the bore, you have to relieve the top edge of the bore for clearance..... The biggest valve you can use in a 283 with a safe overbore is 1.94 I have fitted a 2.02 valve [one] into a power pack head to test on the flow bench. This was a head that some "expert" hogged out the throat with a Dremel and it flowed less than stock.[no velocity] By installing the 2.02 valve created a "bell mouth" or restored some venturi to the throat. This restored the flow in the head, but the real gain was low lift flow [.150" to .250"] I was going to try a 2.02 valve on a stock power pack head but couldn't find a "Free" candidate [the heads we used were "cracked" donations] My thinking on heads changed a lot after this experiment. Most people get mesmerized by maximum flow numbers but this usually only happens at peak lift. The valve spends more time "off the seat" either opening or closing, than at maximum lift. Also the engine needs to support the flow numbers. It is a waste of time [$$$] using high performance heads if the engine is spending most of it's time at lower rpm. [trying to accelerate] Which brings me to one conclusion, the best all round Hot Rod head for a street vehicle is a stock "un ****ed with" Vortec head. They are good for 380hp and using long duration high lift cams, bigger valves will not produce any better results. But they are very good flowing even at below peak numbers.
If I was going to go with a vortec head on a 283 I'd get a set of 305 vortecs. Most of the same benefits but smaller chamber so you doubt lose a lot of compression like usual when putting a head off a larger bore engine onto a smaller bore.
True! but I wasn't actually suggesting that @bryan boswell use Vortecs. I was just pointing out that we all get seduced by romantic components which can be detrimental to our end results. Race engines and pseudo race engines are absolute dogs on the street. This a 283 in a street driven vehicle ,a realistic goal would be an honest 240-250 horsepower [but even then it will only be making those numbers when you wind it out] 90% of the time the engine will only be making 106-133 hp [2000-2500 rpm at 280 ft/lbs] Why bother with all these ******** hot rod parts when the engine [and car] doesn't support it. With a 283 engine there are more gains to be made with rear-end ratios and different transmission ratios
On my own 283 build (57 power pack) I'll be going visual super power pack dual quad clone. Main deviations from stock power pack will be a modern equivalent of a duntov cam and 1.86 valves in original power pack heads(simply for warm fuzzy feeling lol)
One can spend an awful lot of time and money on stock cast-iron heads - trying to get some HP out of them. I like the idea of the 305 Vortec HO heads - probably the best bang for the buck. From the Web: The Vortec 305 head comes with 1.84" x 1.50" valves and use center bolt valve covers1. Another common 305 head for performance use is the 1980-'86 "HO" heads, which have nominal 58cc combustion chamber volume and 1.84" x 1.50" valves1. The 14022601 1979-'86 heads also respond well to porting and 1.94" intake valves1. The 376450 heads should be avoided as they have 1.72" intake valves1. The best flowing stock GM casting for a 305 is the Vortec truck head from the '96-99 GM pickups which came with a 5.0 305. They come with 1.85" and 1.50" valves and the casting number ends with 0592.
If you reversed the mathematics. Using stock Vortec heads which are good for 380hp on a 283, it would reach it's hp at 7100 rpm This is calculated using "the rule of thumb" formula of approx 1 ft/lb torque per cubic inch. [280 ft/lbs] The engine would need to be built to support this RPM range. Valvetrain / Cam / Compression If the same heads were plonked onto a mild 383 stroker it should make the same power at 5250 rpm But with 380 ft/lbs, it would be a lot more driveable down low A 383 stroker with 380 ft/lbs torque x 3.55:1 rear end ratio will have exactly the same axle torque as a 283 with 280 ft/lbs torque x 4.81:1 rear end ratio. [and the wheel speed is the same when comparing 5250÷ 3.55 to 7100÷ 4.81] Personally for a 283 the best bang for the buck is gear ratios and transmission swaps [keep the power pack heads]
Still look like late model heads I don’t care what anyone runs could care less about hp if ya want the old look, ya need old parts
If I stick with the power packs should I maybe just go to a 1.84 intake would a 1.94 not be worth it?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1161547074...kgIBFEbuoT0DulGcTKv6wkehg=|tkp:Bk9SR4yJgZ_NZA I considered buying these for the 327 I'm putting together but found double humps at a resonable price. These would be good for a 283. Gary
Read this thread. A lot of talk on getting good numbers out of a 283 . Big valves , cams , higher flow heads , compression and sticking it in a heavy street car with fairly high gears. This is not so bad if you plan driving it around in lower gears trying to make the HP it's now capable of. I must be getting old but unless I'm flogging out it hard all the time I want torque when I'm pulling a vehicle from zero to what ever realistic speed the road or traffic allows in nice driver like the OP has. I have fast stuff , radical stuff, low geared stuff BUT if I had the OPs nice car I'd be more concerned on how well it ran from 900 rpm to about 3100 RPM were its going to be actually driven and ran 98% of the time and want a little bit more power say up to a realistic 4000 RPM and a ability to not float the valves or come apart after it goes past peak HP. My opinion for what it's worth is build it for the seat of the pants low end acceleration for that short blast as you pull onto the interstate or such under real driving . A 283 is a lot of fun in a light hot rod with low gears. Bigger cars are better with torque . If that was my car I'd at least go 327 settle for a 350 and want a 383 or bigger in a small block and want the OD trans IF I was driving it a lot and going long distances in it and wanted low end grunt . Adding MAYBE a extra 50 HP with cam and heads on a 283 and that still runs on pump gas is only going to move the peak HP up the RPM range and likely cost it down low were you actually want it . So unless your planning on running it up to 5000 RPM every shift torque is king . I'd want a stick in then and OD so I could run at least a 3.73 gear I have had 283 and 302 SBC screamers and 327's that ran low 12s in a chevelle but they ****ed for a daily driver if making big HP . With a automatic and 308 gears they would be total turds . I don't know what his 283 will over bore to but IF it can go 4" and take the crank id make it a 327. Even if it goes. 060 over and a 327 crank making it a over bored 307 in reality it's going be better with street gearing. Cost about the same. I have a .060 307 with forged flat tops in my 57 vette right now. I run mildly ported 461 heads with 1.94 heads and cam made for about 4500 rpm ( mild cam) it will run on regular gas but run it on no alcohol premium. I doubt any one here can tell it's short about 10 CI from a actual 327 with a slightly bigger bore . I'd wager a identical but 4" 327 only makes maybe 10 or so HP more with same heads, cam, compression etc. It makes maybe 350 HP runs good Now add 2.02 valves that fit the 4" bore and the fact the valves are more unshrouded and you get gains and hundreds more aftermarket head choices . You pick up HP and torque. My opinion with today's gas limitations on compression ratios that affect cam choices and such. Bigger is better and torque is what I'd want in that car. Now if this was a 2000 pound roadster with 4.11 gears and 4 speed. Let that 283 scream
How high do plan on spinning it? 1.94 valves won't likely hurt but there of little help if it's got a tiny cam and will never see 5000 RPM. Defining the goals you seek should dictate the cam, heads , intake gears stall if its a automatic. How do you plan on driving it ?
Just a cruiser with an occasional " get on it" ...and it would be nice to be able to occasionally do a 2 wheel peel. Lol..I'm thinking just dp 1.84 valves and go with that.
I also still need to figure out the gearing just havnt gotten around to it. Id likento be abl to cruise at 70 with out winding the hell out of it. 4 spd muncie
For my 64 impala, I drove it for a few years with the stock 283 and 2 barrel and powerglide. Eventually my Pops and I swapped in another stock 283 with a 4 barrel. What a difference. It drove essentially the same, but when I stomped on it at a light it would twist up the left front corner a little, and sound great. That was 30 years ago. Still have it. 1000005957 by NoSurf posted Jan 4, 2024 at 7:55 PM
Yeah...I'm betting just some mild upgrades will wake it up a little...I'm definitely over complicating it a bit.
Depending on if your willing to buy premium gas I'd get the compression up around 10-1. I'd likely go with a small cam that allows a stock stall converter if you have a automatic. It will sound better to . I'd go with a 600 ish CFM carb on a dual plane manifold . I'd likely go 1.95 valves but your not gaining much if its not reving past 5,000 rpm if even more. Honestly lower gears and a OD that allows freeway speeds will do more for the car than any thing really radical. Look at what a 50's corvette 283 does they had the same engine pretty much with a cast iron PG in a much heavier full size chevy and they ran OK . Cams have come a long ways since as have transmissions . I had a 61 Impala with a 283 and a power glide had 11-1 compression Team G intake 650 Holley and a 30-30 solid cam. It ****ed with 308 gears and the power glide sure it would rev but I was doing 100 by the time it got there . LOL. 3.73 gears and a 4 speed made it fun but then it was no good on the freeway for long distance. What it needed was a 5 speed or a auto like a 200 4r with good lower gears. It got a warmed up 350 and it was better down low and more fun IMO. I had a Camaro with both a really hot 12-1 283 and a 302 with a m22 and 4.11 gears a blast to drive if you were not really going any were.
The Jalopy Journal
