57-up 283 power pack 4 barrel heads had the single triangle on them. In 64-up, 65 for sure, these were used with a Rochester 2 barrel for 195 HP. They were also used with the lower HP 327’s. I used them on street rebuild engines because there were millions made.
Yeah like I said I dunno the rear end ratio yet..but always felt like an overdrive would help a great deal on the highway. Its terrible on the highway.
I would like to bump the compression up a bit. I always run 90 or 91 in it cause usually all I can find in non ethonal anyway
Depending on uses. If slamming gears like an off the wagon drunk slamming whiskey I'd try something else. If just a cruiser occasionally driven in anger it'll be fine. My personal preference on a factory five speed is a nv3500. Newer and more available. Plus bellhousing is built in. Downside is they shift a lil more like a truck. But direct swap into 283 came on 94+ S10 and like 91+ Silverado. Imo 96+ Silverado is best donor as the case is smaller than S10 version and it has an internal slave cylinder
It is all about expectations, time and money . . . you have to make some decisions on what is most important to you and how much you want to sink in the end-to-end powertrain. Without a budget and set of clear goals, we're all just ******* in the wind!
With your bench seat you need the forward shifter positions. The best bench seat T5 is a hybrid 3rd gen Camaro NWC T5 with an S10 Tailhousing, shifter rail, and mainshaft To do this properly you really need to start with 2 transmissions to make one. This starts getting costly and makes a TKX Tremec look attractive Just do what the factories did in the late 70's, and use a wide ratio Super T10 and a 3.08 rear end. A Super T10 "Z" ratio [ 6 rings on the input] will literally bolt up with your existing shifter ,rear mount ,driveshaft and speedo drive. You'll need to swap the clutch plate and driveshaft yoke for the different spline count Borg-Warner Super T-10 Z-code = 1st 3.42 ,2nd 2.28 ,3rd 1.46 ,4th 1.00 even the more common Borg-Warner Super T-10 Y-code = 1st 2.88, 2nd 1.74, 3rd 1.33, 4th 1.00 would be OK With a 3.08 rear it the 283 will still be nice and crisp around town , and cruise at 70 mph at 2800 rpm The Borg-Warner Super T-10 Z-code was available in 1982 Z28 Camaros [305 4 speed] which had a 2.73:1 rear end ratio AND if you don't like the results ,you still can easily swap back the diff head and Muncie trans [it is bolt in - bolt out]
I always hesitate bringing this up due to the fact that the budget factor of these builds is usually what dictates peoples' component choices but at this stage of the game finding an OEM Super T-10 could be a challenge, not to mention expensive, real expensive if the sellers' claims of being rebuilt aren't factual. The Richmond series of Super T-10's offer a number of gearing options to match up to various drivetrain combinations. I bought mine many years ago when they were still (fairly) reasonably priced and no doubt have gone up in price, as has the cost of a new Hurst shifter.
https://northernautoparts.com/cart.php So this is what I wanna get...sound like a sound package to you guys? Went one step up on the cam as well
I'm currently building a 283 for my RPU. '60 pickup block with early 60's PP heads, Duntov 097, bored .030 over and 283 dual quad setup. Biggest mistake I've made was not working more closely with the machine shop. They decked the block but did not check piston to deck height. Even with shim head gaskets, my quench is .048", a bit too much. The 283 needs every bit of compression it can get, so if you do rebuild it, make darn sure you get the block properly decked to match your pistons. Best of luck!
X-2....... .a lot to be said for hopping up an old skool 283 but......whats the point when you add all the go fast goodies and 'nobody' can tell the difference on the out side between the two engines (except true Shivel-lay nuts that would be rude enough to point out all the tell-tale signs) "I woulda" went with a 350 to begin with but...what do I know I like FoMoCo stuff !! 6sally6
Found a set of these in the shed hear at work the other day...are these worth monking with...could prolly gettem for next to nothing
The 305 CI 416 heads are a very good head for the type of engine you're building. The chambers are around 58cc or so. You can put larger valves in them - just depends on what you want to spend. They'll need to be rebuilt like any other head and you should put screw-in rocker studs and machine the guides for good quality seals. I'd surely consider putting hard seats in the exhausts. If it was mine, I'd probably go to 1.94/1.6 stainless valves, match the ports to the intake gasket, maybe do a bit of clean up in the bowls and be done with it. You're not building a race engine, so there is no reason to go nuts on porting or other expensive head work. If you want to spend a bit of money, consider a hydraulic roller cam . . .
Why are you so obsessed with swapping the heads????????????? Unless your power pack heads are cracked ,they are already good enough for your engine. From experience with a flow bench , just do a decent 3 angle valve job [and radius the face of the exhaust valves] only go up to 1.84" intake valves if this is needed during the rebuild [and get them "back cut"] The cheapest way to up the compression on a 283 is install a 327 crank and 307 pistons [during your rebuild] This is ***uming you are buying new 283 pistons anyway. A 327 crank would be cheaper than milling the heads/decking the block AND match facing the intake manifold. A 9.0:1 compression 283 engine will jump to 9.76:1 compression just from increasing the swept volume to 307 [std bore] Power pack heads are good for 270 hp in stock form, and 300 hp with a bit of valve work . You would need to build the rest of the engine to support this. 300hp from a 283 is achievable , but more liveable from a 307 stroker [but the reality is ...... 250hp is more realistic]
If it was mine I’d have thePP heads freshened up, ridge ream and dingle ball the cylinders, install new bearings rod and crank, a 500 or 600 cfm 4bbl on a matching manifold maybe headers or least dual exhaust 2 or 2 -1/4 pipes mild cam something on the order of the comp cam 260 h and drive the snot out of it. While freshening up the bottom end if anything is found out of allowable tolerance have machine shop repair as necessary. With 3.50 ish gears it should drive anywhere well. Dan
We all are guilty of being "Romanticized" with hotrod parts and bling . It starts with dreaming over car magazines, then we fall foul of "product placement" on channels like motor trend. I've grown up around road racers where modifications were restricted to Homologated parts etc [minimum production numbers] Because of this , I've learned to blow the doors off cars with far superior engines. And sometimes my engines looked like something found in a dumpster [this goes back to my street racing / hustling days] Sometimes this was simply good engineering and sometimes it was blatant cheating @bryan boswell If you set your sites on 1hp per cubic inch it would be a good useable street engine. And stay with that .............. If you want more power, then go bigger [eg:383sbc with 380hp] over 1.15 hp per cubic inch and it is stretching the usability for an all-rounder 300hp would be a reasonable ask from a 307 Chevy [283 with 327 crank] Your existing heads with valve work would flow that. A set of 307 flat tops, a 327 crank, mild cam , dual plane intake with 500 cfm carb, and Corvette Rams Horn 2-1/2" outlet manifolds. With some thought [and repro decals] you could build a nice engine to keep the provenance of your family heirloom.
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