Technical 64 Chevy Fuel Starvation Issue

Ok, I’m lost finding a fuel starvation issue. I’m probably going to be overly detailed with info, but I want to be thorough. It’s a 64 Chevy Bel Air with a 230/Glide. A few weeks ago I replaced what appeared to be the original mechanical fuel pump, the existing pump worked fine, but was leaking out of the bottom. I replaced it with a typical modern aftermarket pump, and it worked fine. Took it on a 130 round trip, ran awesome. A day later, while driving it to a cruise, a rock caught my radiator right in a tube, and caused a severe leak. It got warm by the time I got off the interstate (no gauge, but I could tell it was hot). I pinched the hole shut and made it home. After brazing it for a temp fix while I wait on radiator from Jegs, I cleaned the engine compartment out with engine cleaner and a power washer to clean up the antifreeze that went everywhere. That’s when the issue started. The next day while running across town, it quit. No fuel. Got it home, disconnected the fuel line, cranked it, no fuel supply. Thought my offshore aftermarket “new” pump was ****. Replaced it, added a clear filter so I can see the flow, started fine, drove it, after a few stops and it cooling off, it did it again, quit on me and wouldn’t start. I byp***ed the tank with a jug and made it home. This car has a new tank and sender. Here’s what I’ve done to troubleshoot so far:

-Replaced my second new mechanical pump with an OE old pump off a spare engine, and after initial started up it filled the fuel filter and ran fine, but as it warmed, the filter ran dry and engine stalled

-Blew out fuel line, ran it without the fuel cap, same end result, no fuel, stalled out.

-Cleaner and blew out factory fuel cap, vent is working properly.

-Plumbed in electric Edelbrock pump (3 psi), ran new hose from the pump away from heat up to the fuel filter by the carb. Started up, ran awesome, but as it warmed, the fuel filter ran dry and stalled out with the new electric pump in place.

-Dropped tank and checked sender for flow, the tank for contamination, it was squeaky clean. Ran light air through the sender and sock, no restrictions. Blew out the fuel line from front to back, no blockage. Put the tank back in.

-Tested electric pump with jug of fuel, unhooked from carb, and with a hose ran off the output side of the filter, it filled a quart cup in about 15 seconds, nice pressure.

-Plumbed the electric pump back into the reinstalled fuel tank and factory lines. I tested the electric pump again the way I did above, and with nice pressure it filled a quart cup in 15 seconds hooked up to the factory system with the fuel cap on.

So it has to be in the carb, right? It’s a rebuilt Rochester B1 that works awesome. I pulled the hat, checked float level, replaced the needle and seat, blew out p***ages, removed the br*** filter, and re-installed it.

SAME RESULT!

As it warms to operating temperature, the fuel supply into the filter dries out and the car stalls. I’ve given up. I’m gonna try a different carb body, but I’m out of ideas. I know this is super long, but I wanted to provide as much info as I can. Any direction or ideas would be super.

Thanks in advance!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Well, if the fuel filter is running dry, and it is in-line before the carb, your issue would not be at
the carb. I had an identical car as your's, which had sat for awhile. It developed some rust in the
tank, the caused intermittent flow issues. To locate my issue, I put a temporary clear type fuel
filter ahead of the fuel pump and was amazed at the particles that got ****ed up. The fuel pump
has little "flapper valves" in it, and the rust was keeping them open and not working.
You're on the right track, take it slow and try one thing at a time.

 

Did you happen to fill the g*** tank just before this no fuel started or is there another filter in line?

 

It sounds like you either have something in the tank that is being ****ed up in the sock or you are ****ing air somewhere in your plumbing. I don't see how it could possibly be carb related if the filter goes dry. It's got to be in the supply. Maybe a section of rubber or fabric line that is ****ing together and shutting off the fuel supply. Bad kink somewhere in the metal supply line?

 

The tank and sender are only a few months old, and the tank is very clean. No collapsed or kinked lines. The pump moves a ton fuel with it “on” disconnected from the carb inlet. That’s why I’m struggling....


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If there are any rubber lines connected to the hard lines, replace them. Could be a rubber line collapsing internally under pressure from the pump or vacuum from the pump drawing fuel from the tank.