A couple of more small patches I did over the last few days when I had some spare time during the week.Please excuse the cell phone pics too much on my camera and it would take forever to load em up. This is the driver's side rear under the backseat. And after being tacked in. Pasenger side rear as well. We welded in the rest of the floors today but ran out of argon before we could finish the top seam on both toeboards so I didn't take any pics yet.But theses rear patches are welded up now as well.Will post up some more pics when they get done hopefully next weekend when he comes back.I don't really know how to weld so I have to wait for him to come back but I did do all the tacking myself. I usaully cut and fab my pieces myself tack em in place and he comes back and welds em up for me. I also had made my own trunk panels about a month ago so I got some of them in place as well today so once that area is done I will post them up as well. Oh yeah any of you Falcon guys out there if you ever replace your front floor panels I got a tip from Terry over on the tffn (if you ever read the HAMB thanks Terry!!).You can drill some small holes on the panel but be careful not to go into the frame and the plug them with small welds.This is just to ensure they are snug to the frame and to add some little extra strength. Hope you guys can see them it was already getting dark when I took the pictures.
He's making perfect sense, if you are installing Granada spindles on an early Fairlane. The Fairlane front suspension/steering is completely different than the Falcon, nothing interchanges, so some of this does not apply - particularly the tie rod ends. For Fairlane to Granada spindles, you can also use early Corvair inner tie rod ends, same thread as Fairlane but NOT the same as Falcon - either 6 or V8 (recommended) steering. -KK
Hey everyone about to put my new springs right now and noticed the old ones have a tappered end and the new have the pigtails on both.Which side should go up.I already tried compressing them and I probably could have went a little more but it seems like they may be a little too large. I bought for a v8 but they do seem like they would almost have to be compressed to about a foot and half to be able to slide in the shock tower.Any suggestions? Thanks
This blows Been trying to compress and install y front springs today and I couldn't get them to clear the spring perch.I mean I had the spring compressed to the point where they were almost touching.It got to the point a minute ago while I was uncompressing the spring the spring compressor tool heated up and started to kind of strip the threads.They are still there but you can see the new shiny metal on the threads.The lower control arm is all the way down and the upper is as down as it gets. Don't want to cut a coil out if I don't have too.Im sure they are the right springs I have cross referenced my part numbers and invoice to make sure I did get the right ones.You can tell in the above picture that the new springs are much more beefer because they are for a v8 and the old ones are for the inline 6 suspension.
Well after some long research looks like the springs that were called for on the rockauto site for a 2-door h/t are a little long.I should point out that o'riley's call for the same part but also have a slight shorter spring for the v8 application.Maybe one is for vans i don't know.Im sure if I get them compressed enough they would fit but I'm not sure I wont to go that route. Going give the inline6 ones a shot and see how it looks once the engine is installed.If not autozone carrie a pair with the tangential end.Which is what I have with my old ones.The new ones have a pigtail at both ends and are not tangential on one end.I also have read that these type of springs are not to be cut.Something about them not be able to sit right once installed. I'll get at it tomorrow since I'm off and see what happens.
Is it just me, or is "too much information SOMETIMES Nealy as bad as not enough information? There are so damn many posts on this issue to sort through, that I almost think it would be easier to just throw what parts I THINK might work at the problem and sort it out for myself.... LOL... (I am not joking, but it is still funny) If I were doing this I might say try Mustang Poly bushings, an aftermarket Mustang R&P, adapted to fit might just be the bomb! Right at the moment, we are using the orig, 6 cyl steering on my sons 64 Falcon with a newly installed and slightly raised 302. It WORKS FINE, drives and steers great, with no issues or vibration whatsoever. IMO, the 302 with aluminum heads and intake ain't much heavier than the 6 that came out, but bigger drum brakes are not a bad idea just because,,, even though I have not seen a practical need even for these. What I THINK I might be saying is that we might be making things TOO complicated. My older son has a 66 Mustang with a R&P setup and otherwise stock suspension that drives pretty damn nice in my unsophisticated but somewhat pointed opinion... The Mustang was a 6 at one time also, the R&P setup was an "easy" (if not a little pricey) way to go from 6 to 8.
Yes sir I agree seems so.Someone told me before I started my rebuild that the old inline 6 suspension would hold up fine with the added weight of the v8 im running a 289.But not wanting to leave nothing to chance I opted to get all new v8 suspension parts.I got to say I could of saved some cash but not having to get another pitman,idler arm & bracket and the center link if I would of just bought all new tie rods but it's a lesson learned. You are correct about the additional weigt I believe the inline is 365lbs and the v8 comes to 485 lbs.So there is only a 120lb difference.The old ones will need some cleaning but Im looking forward to getting them in there.
Well went to take off the rear drums and they wouldn't budge.Looks like the rearend may have been sitting in some water or out in the rain for years because the backing plates are very pitted.It was to the point that the shoes were rusted to the drum which would explain them not wanting to come. The front suspension is done will try and post up some pics later.Now I need to look for some new rear drums and backing plates.
**** it going try and clean up the backing plates and see how they look after a grinder and wire wheel get ahold of them.Then I only would have to worry about the new drums the damage has been done.
Know anyone with a gl*** bead cabinet? I would try to clean them up because I freaking HATE looking for obscure parts.... I think I have some good backing plates from a 6 cyl 66 Mustang rear....
No sir I wish I did.The pitting seems to be only at the bottom part of the plate.About 4 inches worth.Let me know about the plates if you want to get rid of them.I'll measure mine,they are from an 8 inch rear - 67 mustang.
Here are a couple of shots of the floors after primering and painting. Start Welded in Seam sealer Painted after a lot of prep work and couple of heavy coats of primer Same process other side....
A couple of shots of the rear panels and some patches I made under the backseat.... Did the same process on the underside and it can get to be very time consuming. All primering and painting done by rattle can.Right now in the process of shooting the third and final coat of primer on the underside,then time for some paint followed by some brush on rubberized coating. I have started on my trunk area as well,im having to make my own patch panels and piece it together.Its coming along I will post up pics when I get everything done like I did on the floors.
Yes sir it is a lot of work.I didn't realize the amount of welding that it would take to replace the floors.Of course though I welded them top and bottom but I'm glad I got it over with before the summer months because that would have killed me.
A few shots of the coating on the inside.... and underside.... Also working on my trunk area. Making my own patch panels and pretty much replacing the whole floor of the trunk.The hard part for me is going to be attempting to make the whole chanell area of the trunk.The lip is pretty rusted up but I'm going to do the best I can without a donor.Guess I could have created another topic but rather than make a new one I will continue to add on this one and continue with updates of the build.Im pretty stoked becuae the rear end is almost done then onto the transmission and finally start to dress up my SBF.
I got the whole new third member w/posi and new axles installed a couple of weeks back.It was a good learning experience to tear the housing down to a complete empty shell and then go back and replace everything new and put it all back together.The gentleman who helped me gather my parts and instructed me on the build was tops.I told him I wanted to do it myself to gain the knowledge from the beginning and he was very cool about showing me how it's done.He said most people just want to drop it off and pick it up when it's done sometimes even wanting the install as well.So it was very cool to learn and do it with his help and it saved me some cash on the labor end. Here are a few shots of what I have been working on since the roundup on my trunk area.It ain't pretty but I'm learning seeing this is my first attempt at fabbing a trunk floor from s**** and also going at it alone.The rear end is done though so that's a plus.Just need to connect the dots on the welds do some grinding and repeat the same process as the floors.I still got to tackle the trunk lip but need to finish this up first. A couple of shots of the small patches to the inner rear wells....
A few more of some of the rust problematic prone areas... New metal and 1 1/2 angle tacked in place... Trying my hand at making some small patches on the body... Before shot of bondo cracking... All is revealed... First small patch tacked in...
Good progress, and well do***ented. When are you going to throw a gas tank in it and get it on the road? I still got to get with you about that 8" clutch pack, I got distracted before LSR and forgot.
Thanks guys, No problem man on the clutch pack,just let me know when you are ready. I looked for you by your ride at the roundup but never did see you.Well I might try to do some welding this Sunday because Saturday is all booked up with the Burnout. Soon as I get it all welded and cleaned up I'll drill the holes and drop the new tank in.It's easier when I can take the old one out because it gives me a little better access from within to work.Yeah that new tank is just sitting there in my shed begging to be installed.Im ready to drive it and I'm shooting for the end of summer if not before.
I think this has been very informative for many guys here. As for your suggestion to use a Mustang Rack & Pinion, that won't work. Mustangs are wider than Falcons so you end up with different geometry and bump steer galore! There are however aftermarket Rack & Pinions from Unisteer and Total Control that are Falcon specific.
What do you guys think about smoothing a little mud(bondo)or fibergl*** over the small indentations I made while hammering it.Just kind of want to smoothe it over a bit before painting.Any sugestions out there?
I'm no bondo hater, It gets a bad name when misused. If you put it on thin and block it well afterwards, I consider it a quality repair.
Same here Im talking about a really thin skim of it.I just didn't know if fibergl*** would be the better choice. <TABLE cl***=tborder style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR ***le="Post 5180736" vAlign=top><TD cl***=alt2 align=middle width=125>Scott</TD><TD cl***=alt1><HR style="COLOR: #e5e5e5; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1>Glad I read this thread, I WAS going to buy a 63 falcon and "drop in" a v8 Scott if the 63 is setup for the v8 go for it. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
The Jalopy Journal
