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Technical 65 C10 Lights

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rockit Miles, Aug 28, 2023.

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  1. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

    All lights work with key on. With light switch on I loose brake lights and only have one side turn signal. Light switch is new. Had problem removing knb and shaft on old switch and same thing with new switch. Spring loaded release button seems to bend and not releasing shaft?
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,686

    squirrel
    Member

    you pulled the knob out to "on" position before pressing the button?

    I'd be checking grounds, at the lights....weird problems like that sometimes are ground related.
     
  3. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,233

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

  4. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

  5. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 5,387

    dirt t
    Member

    Also look at the bulbs to insure that an element hasn't broken and shorted to the other eliment.
     
  6. 327Eric
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,201

    327Eric
    Member

    Likely the problem now, after nearly 60 years the ground path is obscured by paint and rust. My 66 C10, and my 59 El Camino needed multiple pig tails, including each light to function properly
     
  7. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,018

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ground problem at the rear lights. The park light circuit is back-feeding through the brake light circuit. I would take a good look at the side that the turn signal doesn't work on.
     
  8. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

    All my lights are grounded and work fine with key on. That circuit is run through the turn signal switch and all work fine. I lose it when the light switch is turned on. I switched the dash light turn signal wires and it has the same problem, just changes the side. I did a dash upgrade and had the housing out. Seems to be wiring issue or ground from the light switch or ignition switch, which interfears with the turn signal switch circuit. Haven't looked into it yet but I'll find it.
     
  9. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,018

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Realize that if it is wired correctly, there is no connection between the park lights/headlights and the turn signal/brake lights. However, there is one place they have a potential connection, that is in the 1157 bulb filaments. Lose a ground at any light socket and one circuit will back-feed into the other through the filaments. Since the problem only appears when you turn on the park light/headlights, it has to be a ground problem unless you have a short circuit somewhere.

    You say the grounds are good, did you check them with a meter or just visual? While you can find an obvious bad ground visually, you won't find those that aren't so obvious. Turn on the turn signals and headlights. Using a digital voltmeter, connect the ground lead to battery negative (at the battery) using a long jumper wire. Now touch the positive voltmeter lead to each light socket. The meter should read less than 0.1 volts. I think you will find one that reads over 10 volts. That's the one with a bad ground.
     
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  10. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

    I did the test with meter and have no voltage. Replaced bulbs. Same problem. With key on all turn signals and brake lights work. This circuit is key on power to purple wire to flasher to turn signal switch. Black wire is 12 volts at switch and ground at horn button. The white wire from turn switch runs to brake switch. The orange wire from brake switch runs to light switch and branches off to dome light. This tells me the orange wire is constant 12 volts at light switch as the dome light is constant with knob with key and light switch off. This is how brake lights function from brake switch back to turn signal switch for both brake lights with both ign. and lights off. Does this sound correct?
    I did the test with meter and have no voltage. Replaced bulbs. Same problem. With key on all turn signals and brake lights work. This circuit is key on power to purple wire to flasher to turn signal switch. Black wire is 12 volts at switch and ground at horn button. The white wire from turn switch runs to brake switch. The orange wire from brake switch runs to light switch and branches off to dome light. This tells me the orange wire is constant 12 volts at light switch as the dome light is constant with knob with key and light switch off. This is how brake lights function from brake switch back to turn signal switch for both brake lights with both ign. and lights off. Does this sound correct?
    Here is list of functions. Seems like ground but they all work until light switch!
    1. LS OFF KEY OFF
    BRAKE LIGHTS WORK -DOME LIGHT WORKS
    2 LS OFF KEY ON
    BOTH BL WORK BOTH TS WORK.
    3 KEY OFF LS ON
    NO BL (RIGHT SIDE SLIGHTLY BRIGHTER WITH BRAKE)
    LS NO CHANGE

    LTS ON
    LL ON RL OFF RL BRAKE WORKS

    RT ON RL OFF LL ON
    NO BLS
     
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,686

    squirrel
    Member

    Quick test...when the system is acting up, take a piece of wire, and hold one end on a good ground (like a chrome bumper, the alternator housing, or something like that) and touch the other end to the metal part of the light bulb, and see if it magically starts working. That's how you test the grounds. You can use logic and "it works when...." all you want, but that doesn't actually test the ground at the bulbs.
     
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  12. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

    Are you referring to the taillight bulbs? I know the first three problems for light problems are ground, ground, and ground. If brake lights and turn signals work with only key on the taillight grounds seem to be good? The brake lights get 12 volts from light switch to brake switch to turn signal switch. I lose brake lights when light switch is on. With key off and light switch on. I should not have any connection to turn signal circuit when applying turn signals. How do I lose 12 volts to turn signal switch from light switch for brake lights? Does this seem to be a ground problem through the light switch running lights or a wire short somewhere?
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,686

    squirrel
    Member

    I'm lost....tell me again what are the symptoms, right now. Tell me which lights work when and don't work when. Front or rear. Key on or key off.

    Then tell me what happens when you use a separate wire to ground the outer sleeve of the light bulb base, and repeat the test.
     
  14. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

    Ok. First the turn signal switch on column. Key on all turns work as well as brake lights. Key on light switch on. I lose brake lights and only one turn signal flashes by way of turn signal switch left or right. The other only stays on no flash. If I turn key off and light switch on. No brake lights but my turn signal switch (turns ) is getting power some where from light switch being on. Here are exact symptoms from earlier post
    1. LS OFF KEY OFF
    BRAKE LIGHTS WORK -DOME LIGHT WORKS
    2. LS OFF KEY ON
    BOTH BL WORK BOTH TS WORK.
    3. KEY OFF LS ON
    NO BL (RIGHT SIDE SLIGHTLY BRIGHTER WITH BRAKE)
    LS NO CHANGE
    Both running lights on
    LTS ON
    LL ON RL OFF RL BRAKE WORKS

    RT ON RL OFF LL ON
    NO BLS

    I should mention this to maybe clear up confusion. My original post got blocked as this forum does not cover my issue. So let me say that I did an upgrade to dash lights. Turn signal indicator lights, bright light indicator, temp gage, oil pleasure, tachometer, speedometer, as well as wire to running lights to dim dash lights with switch on at night all from circuit board which worked fine. Everything worked except fuel gage worked backward. I installed a Meter Match to cure that problem. I then rewired dash panel lights. Thats when the problem started. This is why my thoughts are wire or short related not ground.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2023
  15. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,018

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Try disconnecting the feed to the dash lights and see what happens. Since you verified the grounds, it sounds like another circuit is feeding circuit for the flasher filaments. It would have to be after the turn signal switch and be feeding two wires (left side/right side). Like I said, it is either a ground problem or something wired wrong/shorted.
     
  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,686

    squirrel
    Member

    A dual filament bulb, such as a front or rear brake/turn bulb, if it is not grounded, will feed power from the running light circuit into the turn signal circuit. And if the dash cluster is not grounded, it will feed through a blinker indicator light and a dash light.

    I guess I'll just give up at this point because you are ignoring my suggestions.

    Have fun.
     
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  17. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

    I'm still going to do the wire test and pursue. ground issues. The board is grounded but I will confirm that as it does function correct. Thank you for the advise and I'm not disregarding your advise I just haven't got to it yet.
     
  18. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,686

    squirrel
    Member

    Ok, let us know what happens.

    I like LEDs in my 1979 vintage alarm clock, but not in old cars...they're just trouble.
     
  19. ClayMart
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,762

    ClayMart
    Member

    . . . Sez the man with the Nixie Tube watch!
    :p
     
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  20. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,686

    squirrel
    Member

    There are a few 'scope clocks around here too....
     
  21. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

    I removed dash lights completely with no change.

    I'm fairly convinced there is not a ground issue or wire short up to turn signal switch.
    I'm not completely ruling it out! Separate circuit test's seem to be ok until light switch
    is on. Ideas before going further. The following tests I did don't make any sense to me
    unless there is a contact issue in the turn signal switch?

    All these tests are with ignition switch OFF (No Power to turn signal circuit from flasher)

    Light switch OFF- Brake pedal engaged - have both BL's
    Engage LT at switch (Lose Left BR light)
    Engage RT at switch (Lose Left BR light)

    Light switch ON - Both Running tail lights ON - Brake pedal NOT engaged.
    Engage either LT or RT at switch. Left run light stays on - Right run light turns off.

    Light switch ON - Both running tail lights ON - Brake pedal engaged (No Brake light's)
    Engage RT at switch. Lose Right Run light.
    Engage LT at switch. BOTH run lights stay on

    I noticed one difference when engaging LT turn at switch NOT RT.
    My gage lights only turn on with IGN. ON
    With LT on I get dash light's on for gage's Temp, Volt, RPM, and Left turn Indicator.

    Seems to be a contact issue in Turn Signal switch?
     
  22. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

     
  23. Rockit Miles
    Joined: Aug 14, 2022
    Posts: 21

    Rockit Miles

    I removed dash lights completely with no change.

    I'm fairly convinced there is not a ground issue or wire short up to turn signal switch.
    I'm not completely ruling it out! Seperate circuit test's seem to be ok until light switch
    is on. Ideas before going further. The following tests I did don't make any sense to me
    unless there is a contact issue in the turn signal switch?

    All these tests are with ignition switch OFF (No Power to turn signal signal circuit from flasher)

    Light switch OFF- Brake pedal engaged - have both BL's
    Ingage LT at switch (Lose Left BR light)
    Ingage RT at switch (Lose Left BR light)

    Light switch ON - Both Running tail lights ON - Brake pedal NOT engaged.
    Engage either LT or RT at switch. Left run light stays on - Right run light turns off.

    Light switch ON - Both running tail lights ON - Brake pedal engaged (No Brake light's)
    Engage RT at switch. Lose Right Run light.
    Engage LT at switch. BOTH run lights stay on

    I noticed one difference when engaging LT turn at switch NOT RT.
    My gage lights only turn on with IGN. ON
    With LT on I get dash light's on for gage's Temp,Volt, RPM, and Left turn Indicator.

    Seems to be a contact issue in Turn Signal switch?
     

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