There's this '66 D200 with a 318 LA V8 at my aunts (I don't own it). i've just started trying to get it to run, it cranks over and has spark on the 2 cylinders i've checked. The compression of each cylinder is 115-125, one cylinder is 50 and another is 150, all others are in the range. It isn't hooked up to fuel but i've used some starter fluid but it didn't change anything or make it pop. What are the next steps i should take to get it to run?
Doing similar. Engine sat for over 20 years. No spark. Fixed that with points and condenser but only hit on 2 or 3 cyls. You’ll find all kinds of things on old engines. This one had at least one fouled plug, a sketchy wire from coil to distributor, corrosion in the distributor cap, old wires jumping fire and 2 stuck valves. Plus a ground from engine to body was disconnected and the coil wired backwards
I would check the points for continuity with an Ohm meter, file as needed. And I don't like starting fluid, I would rather fill the float bowl with gasoline and see what it does. But that also depends on the condition of the carb, which we can't see because you didn't post even one picture of the engine. and that's unfortunate, because we really want to know if it's a 318 LA (which started life in 1967) or a 318A (which was used through 1966 in most domestic applications) and a single picture of the whole engine would tell us immediately.
Yep. Fuel air fire plus timing and compression. After removing the mud dobbers out of the carb, we cleaned it up and built it with leftovers from old carb kits. Once I got it to hit on dumping gas down the carb I hooked up the fuel pump to a jug. Then started chasing all the other issues. diagnosing engine issues **** when only using starting fluid
Starting fluid is one thing thats not allowed in my garage . A shot of that in a diesel and it is doing way way more untold damage than one cares to know . Give the old kicker Harley a shot and it will light 1/2 way through the stroke , see how one’s body reacts to those effects . I dare say after one event , it will be declared the winner , and never happen again .
If you have spark, compression and fuel it should run. That is; unless it had jumped time. Luckily the 318 isn't a valve bender if the timing chain jumped.
If the timing chain jumped, wouldn't that lower his cranking compression readings lower than he reported?
I'm 99% sure it's a 318 LA because it has angled spark plugs. So knowing it's a 318 LA, is there anything i should check before hooking it up to fuel?
I guess I’d check voltage to and from the coil. a spark tester comes in handy too. They’re cheap. Double check wiring My cap looked good on the inside but had corrosion where the plug wires go. The low comp number on one cyl could be a valve sticking.
It's a newer engine, yes it is an LA. What distributor does it have? Are there 1 or 2 small wires coming out of it? Since the engine looks like it's from the 70s,it might have electronic ignition, might need some close up pictures of that part of it
They are not very high. I've been able to get 318's to run with one tooth jumped. They do not run too bad, but they are on their way out.
I think I would start with bring #1 cylinder up on compression and pop the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing towards the wire going to # 1 cylinder. Then I would go around the cap to be sure the wires are going to the correct cylinders in the firing order. Unless the truck belongs to you, you have no idea what has or has not been done to it while its been sitting for years. I think I would dump a bit of gas down the carb and crank the motor to see if it will fire. I'm not real fast on connecting gas to a motor that has been sitting. I've seen way to many carbs loaded with junk, and too many fuel pumps that just dump the gas into the oil pan. If you are real antsy about getting fuel into the motor, I think I would start with filling the carb float bowl. If filling the carb float bowl is successful, then run fuel through the pump.
Update: i poured fuel into the carb and bowl and when i cranked it, it pushed air out of the carb. I'm thinking that the timing is off, but i'm not sure. I also got more pictures.
Yes, look at this first. If you had an ignition timing problem it probably would have rolled a big fireball up thru the carb. Also, while you're experimenting with things like pouring gas directly into the carb and trying to start it, set the air cleaner back in place and at least lightly thread the wing nut down. If it did happen to backfire this will keep you safe and prevent doing any real serious damage.
Yep, LA motor for sure. That one cylinder that was low on compression would be the first place to look once the valve cover is off. An intake valve stuck open would cause the gas to blow back out of the carb. However, if the timing it too advanced, that too can cause the gas to blow back out of the carb, as can a couple of plug wires being crossed. If you have not loosened the distributor and turned it (or even if you have), you can still bring #1 up on compression (pull out the spark plug, put the plug wire to the side, put your thumb over the plug hole, and bump the starter so the motor spins over a bit. When you feel the compression building on your thumb, stop cranking the motor with the starter. Now you need to get in a position where you can see the timing marks and turn the motor by hand until the timing marks line up, (you shouldn't need to turn the motor by hand more then a 1/4 inch of balancer rotation for the timing marks to line up). Then take the distributor cap off and see if the rotor is pointing to the number 1 spark plug wire in the cap. If the rotor is pointing 1/2 way around the cap when timing marks are lined up with rotor from where the wire that goes to #1 cylinder the 1st time, I suggest you go through the process again, to make sure you didn't go past the #1 cylinder on compression. If it comes up wrong the second time, and you did not loosen or turn the distributor, the rotor is about one wire distance off. it could mean the timing chain has slipped. If you have moved the distributor around, at this point, rotate th distributor so the rotor matches up with where the #1 wire is on the cap. Then put the plug back in, and try to start the motor again.
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