Technical 6v horn relay wiring

What is the trick? I've tried every way to wire this that I can think of, but all I get is a click.
Horn works, ****on works, if I hook it up direct it works.
1939 Ford pickup
Tried new one and old one both do the same thing?

 

Horn ****on is usually the earth so 3 to 6v 1 to horn 5 to horn switch. Should have permanent 6v at 3

 

What he said.... ^^^

 

So if you hook the horn ****on to the horn it works? I'm ***uming your horn ****on provides a ground which means your horn already has 6 volts at one of the horn terminals. If that's the case, you need to wire the relay into the power side.

When you say a click, is it the relay clicking or the horn?

 

Nope, still just clicks.
Horn has 2 terminals, one was hooked to power, the other to the ****on. It worked like that, just thought it should have a relay. Maybe I'm over thinking it?

 

The relay needs to be on the power side of the horn. You need to take the power wire off the horn and connect it terminal 3. Then connect termial 1 to the horn where the power was previously. Then connect the horn ****on to terminal 5. That should make it work.

 

Yes, I have tried it exactly that way. It just clicks

 

Is the horn grounded? The horn ****on is now activating the relay. The body of the horn now needs to be grounded in order for it to work when the relay is activated.

 

there's not much there to connect incorrectly, could be a bad relay.

 

Disconnect the horn and connect up a 6v light bulb. If it lights when you hit the horn ****on, your horn is knackered.

 

This ^^^then ground the other horn terminal.
Edit: Like twenty8's diagram who must of posted about the same time.

 

3 is the common. It supplies either power or ground to both the control side (the wiggle) and the load side (the swinging door)
A 1939 is going to be positive ground.(EDIT: I believe that's the only issue with 28's diagram. (Posted while I was typing and grabbing the pic)
According to this 39 car diagram, the horn ****on is the trigger on the ground side. This should connect to #5.
Power (- battery) is direct to the common, #3.
Feed to horn(s) should be #1.

 

Click is usually a poor connection which means there isn't enough current flow to actuate the relay.

 

The wiring and horn ****on on your car was adequate enough that a relay was not needed and many times the horn was wired "hot" to simplify the circuitry.

If you really think it needs a relay.

Remove the power wire from the horn and connect it to 3.
Connect 1 to where you removed the power wire from the horn.
Remove the horn ****on wire from the horn and connect it to 5.
Ground the terminal on the horn where removed the horn wire ****on.

 

This is probably where your problem lies.
Without a relay the horn is grounded via the horn ****on. Simple single circuit.
When a relay is added, the system is effectively changed to a two circuit set up.
The horn ****on only grounds and activates the "trigger" circuit. This then closes the switch in the relay to power the main circuit to supply power to the horn. For the horn to work with a relay it will need its own ground.

 

Hey @RMR&C , got that horn working? Are you having a HOOT yet...???

 

Haven't had time to mess with it again, but I'm sure it will work now.
Thanks to everyone for your help and patience. I'm electrically challenged......but I think I finally got it thru my thick skull!

 

If the terminals are not marked on the relay (they should be with the schematic printed on it), you can use an ohmmeter to check.
With the 2 leads, check for continuity between each terminal. 1 will not have continuity to 3 or 5.
That will ID #1.
3 and 5 will have continuity.
#5 should be smaller/lighter duty.

 

You sure that you have a 6 volt relay and not a 12v relay? A 12v relay might provide a weak click. But the horn contact may not handle the horn current.