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700R4 in a 63-66 Chevy truck? I have questions :)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mike Paul, Jan 22, 2011.

  1. Mike Paul
    Joined: Oct 10, 2003
    Posts: 1,034

    Mike Paul
    Member

    I have a 63 chevy C-10 with a 230 I-6. I'm swapping the 3 speed manual for a 700R4. I know about the crossmember,driveshaft,tranny cooler,torque converter lockout and all that jazz. I want to keep the stock gas pedal and linkage to the carb but I also need to hook up the TV cable. I know some of you guys on here have done it. So do I need to make some kind of bracket to hold the cable that bolts to the head? How about where the cable hooks to the bellcrank on the manifold? Any pics/ideas? Thanks......Mike
     
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  2. Mike Paul
    Joined: Oct 10, 2003
    Posts: 1,034

    Mike Paul
    Member

  3. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,922

    kisam
    Member

    Mike I did this swap on my 66 with a 350. I ended up getting the correct stock bracket from the junkyard and I followed Bowtie's instructions to the "t". I tried some other brackets and they just scared me. I would suggest going the same route. As you probably know, if you don't get the TV cable properly adjusted it will burn up the 700R4. I still can't feel it when it kicks into OD but I can see the RPM's drop. You are going to be happy!
     
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  4. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    I did a 66 with a 250 six with a 700r4. I had to fab a custom bracket that uses two of the bell housing bolts to hold the cable. It needs to be strong so it won't flex. Also the cable adjustment is critical.

    When most backyarders tear out the side bellhousing mounts and the bell crossmember, they just use a simple trans crossmember that bolts to the lower frame flanges. If you look how that stock bell crossmember supports both the upper and lower frame flanges from twisting outwards from the extreme weight on the front cab mounts, you can understand that a better trans crossmember is needed.

    The best one to use is 63-72 Chev/GMC pickup/suburban that had a factory automatic trans. The 70/72 will be a bit easier to find because more of those had A/T. It bolts to both the upper and lower flanges and does support the frame rails from twisting.


    EDIT; By the way, you likely have a 3.7 rear ratio. That 66 I did had that also. The O/D in lockup was great in most driving conditions here, but out on the highway on long grinding hills, you really had to plan for a hill because the 250 was slightly overgeared with the 3.7. It needed just a bit more torque to not loose speed....or just increase the speed at the bottom of a hill.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2011
  5. dbradley
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,036

    dbradley
    Member

    Here's instructions with the 'geometry' for the throttle linkage shown. Just fab a bracket for your throttle plate linkage and attach to match the geometry shown (Figure 2). The brackets that are sold for both Holley or Edelbrock may be worth having to do your fab work. Don't know how much you're wanting to invest in the transmission but TCI also sells a valve body that maintains pressure, doing away with the dreaded low pressure burn down and makes life much more simple on the install.

    http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm

    http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=376020
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2011
  6. Mike Paul
    Joined: Oct 10, 2003
    Posts: 1,034

    Mike Paul
    Member

    Thanks guys. My other option is a turbo 350 or a turbo 400. Maybe since this truck won't see a ton of interstate driving I'll just go that route.
     
    1Nimrod likes this.

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