82 year old rusty frame

Yes, but they don't crack and break off.....lol

 

Ok when I get back on this truck I'm going to make the engine look kinda like this

With the crossram intake I want to make a air cleaner that simulates this one but is turned sideways. I have the 289 stickers I could put on each curved end. Getting a set of these style valve covers. I will cut there tops off and add them to another set to get the height to clear my valve train. Then weld on some taller tubing for the breathers, paint gold and add H M decals. Here's my cam card

I plan to run 1.8 rockers so you do the math. The card calculated to 1.6 ratio.
Update... T-5 is going to the stack of parts in the corner and T-10 going in.
Now do I put a 9" in to take it all the way period?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Either a nine inch or a dodge spec Dana 60 car rear. That would be my vote but I like Dana axles as they are nicer looking and handle more power.

 

Good read keep it up
John

 

Thanks John, just got to finish my Tudor first. It's all planned out and moving slow. It's real easy to think about the truck whenever things bog down and something sets my brain to dreaming big.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What are you planning for wheels and tires Wyatt?

Please tell me cheaterslicks and mags.....

 

Matt mostly I'll be running the wheels and tires that I put together for it already in this thread. They represent the bootlegger mountain truck vibe best. But I did recently get the 15 Lincoln steelies from Tony Martino to run a 60s period slick yes. I have always got off more on a vehicle walking a bigger stick than it looks, never the other way around. When I take it to a drag strip and don't care to much about its traditional image I will run a modern slick that can handle the nitrous hit. You won't see the truck on the street with a power adder though. I'm also installing a removable ant-roll bar out back(not period) and a chromoly main hoop inside the back of the cab. There's been some talk about a removable front section so I don't get my self killed.
I anticipate the PU being about a 800# lighter than my last mustang so if I can get the truck to hook at all with maybe another 100hp than my previous drag packages its game on!
Please don't tell my wife any of this. She believes I left all that dangerous stuff behind when I switched over to this old junk[emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Ha! Excellent. An in cab hoop is a good idea. These things have the rollover protection of a go kart.

What did your last mustang weigh? I am betting on my little truck being about 1200lbs.

 

I think it was 2,870somethin? I only guess that the pickup will 2000ish? I know this new transmission/bell housing change will be heavier though, and if I change to a Dana or 9", ouch.



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Think it will be that heavy? Model A tub on 32 rails with a flatty a friend built was 1050 across the scales.

 

Don't know really? Just sorta basing it on nothing's there and every piece has been so easy to lift or carry around. I mean I can stand in the middle of the fully boxed X member frame and carry it around and I'm not even strong. I can pickup the bed and even lift the cab up on the frame with a little wigglin.
I always remember a show T roadster in DeLuxe that they say weighed 1250 and I crapped myself.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

A T that was 1250? That seems pretty heavy. a stock 34 Tudor sedan with a flatty and fenders is 3400 as I recall.

 

Yes it was even a track job with no turtle or bed in back with the axle and gas tank right behind the body. That poundage has always stuck in my head. Taught me the power weight advantage to these traditional buggers.
Yeah looked up Tudor weight before trying to see where Hubba Hubba might end up with the wimpy flatty. I was hoping that pile will be around 2500 when done. Maybe have the fun factor of a stock late 80s Rustang. Thank God it be a hell of a lot cooler to look at,[emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

A lot cooler than that unless of course you are vanilla ice....in your 5.0...

 

Talked to my friend with the tub. 990kg's! Not pounds my bad.

 

=2182.58


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Ya I know. Frigging metric bullshit.

 

One of the benefits of multiple builds is sometimes each may advance the other as part of the common good. I've just started to put parts and panels of the pickup into the Molasses bath for my Tudor parts. The plan today was to actually cut apart the bed into smaller portions to remove its rust. I didn't get it dug out though. The grill shell and a handful of other stuff has begun its journey to salvation. If I could successfully remove the bones off the axle I robbed from the 34 I could get that lookin pretty. Then it needs to be dropped.
I'm going to take the tops off these early valve covers and apply them to another set I have to get the minimum amount of height required to clear my rockers and stud girdles.


The rear hole on the passenger side cover gets filled. Then the front gets a long tall filler tube with 3 angled gussets. The driver side gets a extension tube welded to the existing piece and the same 3 gussets. I will have to wait till I have the cross ram intake to position these mods correctly.


I have these 2 correct era nos breathers that need the decals that go on top. The spouts will run a hose to the evac valves on my headers.
Until then I'll de-rust more parts. Mostly I am selling stuff as quickly as possible to pay for the bell housing and trans I signed on for. Soon I hope[emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Now I have stacks of clean rust free steel for my Tudor and PU. Wish I could attack the cab but it's just gonna have to wait for another time. I'm pretty stoked about my original shell.

Other than the bottom, which I have a repair patch for, and the fact that I didn't have the time to remove the old paint before soaking, the bulk of it is just awesome. If you remember back I bought this shell with a 34 that I turned around and sold for almost the $150 I paid for the pair. It has a nice worn emblem too. I will get the lower splash panel in about a month then maybe weld it all back together just so I can admire its ol'henry beauty.
The other great shocker is the 1930 Plymouth tank that was original to my now extensively modded frame. It was of course heavily protected by the rear crossmember type piece that covered the whole top of the tank. But I never thought it would look so good.

It has a few dents in the bottom I have to fix that are actually my fault from back when I didn't really think about saving for the build. I also saved the stock lower straps that held her in. I will make new mounting positions for these since they originally attached to that crossmember part that I discarded, it weighed a little to much for this X racer.
I just wanted to update some of you that I have not forgotten my love for this truck and it will have its day.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

That tank is pretty cool.

 

Obviously financially way off for me. But it's hard to not think about my truck after attending the Meltdown Drags last weekend. I see in the classifieds today these babies




The owner isn't selling the wheels but... I mixed a color almost identical to this for a set of motorcycle rims once. I'm sure I could figure it out again. I have the extra wheels now but will need the rubber to recreate this look for the HAMB Drags. The gold would really help the 60s look switch for my truck in race trim. Even against the maroon paint, or maybe black body color?
Sooooooo cool!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Gold wheels rock, yes indeed

 

So @themoose came through again over on the photoshop thread. I asked to alter a pic of Aaron Blatter's black 32 to look more like I'm after.
Dress shoes

Work boots



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Maybe someone can help me with this one.

I finally got a 32 commercial lower inside replacement panel for my grill shell. I had previously purchased a replacement outside lower lip for a 33/34 cause it was is all that's available. Now I'm not expecting it to fit but hoped it might be a workable starting point. I don't know what either years factory contours are supposed to be. My question is if these gaps below are to be expected with the two different models or is this more likely a substantial slop factor between makers?



I would not be surprised if the 33/34 grill is fatter in this "gap" area compared to a 32. Ive always thought they look quite "husky" or "just big boned"[emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My mangled 33 grill fits together about like that!
The lip looks like it needs to be rolled around more to fit the inner panel. My mint 34 grill has the two edges line up almost but not perfectly

 

Matt I think I'll take a better look at my re-pop shell on the Tudor and see if it could be sacrificed to make a better fit for the commercial. Then just get an original again for Hubba Hubba since I'm still unhappy with the fit of the replacement. Better hurry before they all cost over $2k. Thanks for your info it's always a big help, well when your not dogging on the undeniable superiority of the Ford flathead[emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Here's a shot of a 32 that was listed in the classifieds a while back




Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I don't know, it looks like if you trim a little out of the middle of the straight on each side of the 33/34 lower you could get it to tuck in properly. The Radius in the corners look pretty close just too far away. Just from your pics I'm thinking an inch would be too much and 1/2" total might not be enough... but that's a guess without it in front of me.

 

Well after eleven months of getting the final parts to repair the commercial grill shell, I finally am fixing it. I have been thinking about the truck a lot this whole time I’ve put it on pause to build my Tudor. I shouldn’t be waisting time or money on it. But after going to the Meltdown Drags two years in a row I had to do something to it. I’ve been inspired a bunch by watching the “Goldchainer” 32 5w of @daddy_o’s_diner. I’d love to race against him. It will mostly be 2 to 3 years though before I can get RunninShine rollin.
So I started by checking the aftermarket replacement lower patch I got for 33/34 grills up against my OG passenger shell. This told me a lot.
The patch is close but too wide and the side radius is too tight. So a little shrinker stretcher work and a cut and trim to the middle. Now it’s much better.






I stared fitting it on and hope to finish welding it and the bars tonight with a pic update. I stole 3 3/8” from the sides to repair my Tudor’s shell since the truck is channeled anyway.



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Still fighting the lower grill shell a little, soon though.
But real excited to have a replacement for the firewall I stole to use on the Tudor. The classifieds come through again. Thanks so much @Krash !

Can’t wait to work this out. A trip through the molasses bath tub and some weld repair in it will all workout for the best. The missing sections work great with my channel and engine combo.



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app