8BA Flathead rebuild

Also I got the bolts out of the timing cover but cant get it off. Any good tips to pop this thing off?

 

Flatblade screw driver tapped underneath the edge with a hammer. It will pop off after a few wacks.

 

After removing the pan to check for visible cracks, I'd keep on going with the rest of dis***embly. That rusty cylinder doesn't look pretty now, but after blasting I bet it will be OK. May need new valve seats though. Might be a good candidate for a slight relieving.

 

Don't give up yet. This is what my engine looked like when I tore it down. Turned out to be a crack free block.

 

Thanks

 

So that cleaned up good?

 

Tear that thing down. Theres a chance that you could get lucky like I did.
To me this looks like a good candidate for a porting/relief job.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=743696

I learned more in the past 3 days tearing into this motor and I ever could have by just using the search function or out of a book.

 

I think you are right on porting/relief job.
Nice score on your flatty by the way.

 

You need lots of heat a tig welder and foot pedal here is a real ***et.I have done dozens and dozens from 6/32 to 3/4"and never been beaten.On the cool down quench the nut with a candle and let it cool off to warm to the touch.It will come out no problem.If the weld broke that tells me it wasn't secure enough.Weld it again.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/remove-a-broken-bolt.html

My 2¢

T

 

I agree, I never had an issue getting bolts out this way. Weld wasn't strong enough if it broke off.

 

Get the decks cleaned off with a wire wheel and see what you actually have …. Then (if you see no cracks) do the same to the pan rails . that’s were they freeze crack ……we cant clean it for you here on line.

 

Good luck! I'll be keeping an eye out for a spare flatty and doing the same myself.

 

Did not get much done last night. I just drained out most of the oil and got the timing cover off. Next thing to do is take the oil pan off and look at the bottom side.

 

bump

 

Why bump your own thread when everybody is waiting to hear your results?

 

Can't find the 1/2" socket?? Get back out there and show us more autopsy work!!

 

Found it! Hope to get the pan off and turn it over this weekend to look for any pan rail cracks.

 

You've inspired me, I think I located a "good running" flathead. I will bring it home and stare at it all winter as you rebuild yours

 

Well I got the oil pan off and the motor flipped over to check out the oil pan rails for cracks. I got the gasket off and cleaned the rails up good with a wire brush and I looked it over real good and did not see any cracks. Got the two back pistons out number 4 and 8. They came out real easy. All the rings where intact. No scoring on the piston our cylinders. I have the really bad piston soaking but I doubt it will help. I will probably have to drill and hammer that one out. There was really not that much sludge in the bottom of the pan either.

Should I take the cam out because I know I have a few stuck valves as well? That way when I get the stuck piston out I can turn the crank to get the rest of the pistons out.















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I'd remove the cam gear to rotate the crank. Remove the cam after the lifters are out. Also, be sure to steel stamp the rods and caps so they go back in the motor in the same hole facing the same direction.

 

Ha!

 

Uh....yeah....

 

Don't think that will happen.

 

From your picture it looks like you can actually see the holes in the pickup tube screen. Trust me, that is a very good sign that this engine stayed well lubricated. A lot of them that I've seen have the sludge totally imbedded in the screen.

 

Bottom end looks pretty good.

Look along the inside of the block, just inside the pan rails. I recently had one that was cracked there. Be careful when knocking the stuck pistons out. Don't damage the bore. I managed to knock a bar straight through the side of the bore when trying to knock a piston out.

Good Luck, I havn't seen any dealbreakers in your pics yet.

Mart.

 

Boy the # 6&7 cylinders look nasty around the valve combustion chambers. Note to self: when storing an engine fill it completely with oil and cap everything off.

40 over means you have some meat left in the cylinders for sure.

I think I'd take the cutoff wheel to the valves to get them out. Don't think I'd keep any of the valves or springs and it'll save you a lot of time.

Nice job so far!

 

You might also want to see what others would say on the Fordbarn - many post here as well but others may also have a few suggestions for you. Seeing what you have, I think a port job will work and it seems to be a clean block otherwise.

 

I am not saving the valves or springs. Going with new ones. thanks!

 

1-4; 5 & 8 look like you might be able to get them out (being non-mushroom end valves, it will be much easier) but the bad ones for sure. Valve guides will seem like their welded in place. Sure is fun aint it!

 

Looks like the one I have under my work bench waiting for me to get to it. Keep the pics coming.