Projects 8ba in 29 Model A

Looking for some advice here, I'm a young guy trying to get in the hot rod scene.

I already bought the book Traditional hot rod ford that everyone says to buy.

But my questions is does this look like its Spose to? The wishbone lands right under the front of the transmisson and I just want to make sure it's right. The book really didn't help me because that engine was a AB not a BA.

Any help is appreciated

 

And is there a certain degree that the rear end should be at, the torque tube?

 

It appears as though you're using the Model A 'bone. Easiest solution is a longer wishbone, 33/34 being the one you want.

 

Thank you for the response, I will have to look into that. Is there any reason why the torque tube is on a high angle?
Is that okay to run like that?

 

when you say high angle what are you talking 8 10 degrees up or what. 3 degrees is workable

 

The other choice is to fab a belly band to keep the Model A wishbone. I posted some pics of this on a thread here called "Dropped Axles & Front Ends in general".

 

Yeah it just looks like a steep angle. I will get my digital angle on it and see exactly.

But of I brought it down the motor would be so low in the frame rails it wouldn't look right.

But I will get a exact degree and let you know. Thank you

 

You actually will want a 32 wishbone for the correct length but they are expensive. Get a 33-34 bone and extend it by using your model a yoke. There are threads on here about that. Or you could split the bones and not worry about extending it. Spliting the bones is easiest I think, Im still in process of extending mine. which will be done tomorrow I hope.

As far as the torque tube goes you will get all kinds of answers here about that. I could not personally find the exact answer. Mine is set at the angle that it ended up in with a f1 crossmember. top of my block is basically parallel w tops of frame rails.

I used a complete model a rear end and torque tube to locate everything on my car and used that to determine the crossmember location and motor mounts. It just barely clears the firewall and looks about like everyones locations as far as I can tell from the pictures I see online.

Also the measurments for motor mount location in "THE BOOK" are wrong apparently. Use the book as guidelines, research here, and trial and error to get you where you need to be.

You can check my build thread also I am doing the same build as you for the first time also. I am in abpout the same place in the build as you as well.

FWIW get a tardel crossmember and engine mount brackets its a hell of a lot less work than using a f1 just more expensive for the initial part and pedal ***embly. You can save a few bucks on his parts by buying a alliance membership also.

Hope this helps you out some!

 

Thank you for the answers and the great response. I appreciate it very much. I will defiantly check out your build thread.

We have tossed around the idea of putting the later wishbone in it, wasn't sure if we had to or not. I might know of someone with a 32 wishbone[/QUOTE]

 

If you go w a 32 wishbone and a tardel crossmember it will go together very easy

 

I will have to look more in depth with the 32 bones.

If I can't locate any can I use the stock model a or is there a is sure using that?

 

No issues except length. Im using a 33-34 that I cut yoke off of and a model a yoke and couple inches of the bones that will get sleeved together.

Read through this some misinformation in it but most appears to be corrected about a dozen times.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/fabricating-a-wishbone.453014/

 

one suggestion, put an intake manifold on your block as the breather and fuel pump is really what determines the clearance at the firewall

 

rusty, good call on intake and fuel pump install. a comprehensive mock-up (many times on my build) will pay dividends later in the build.

 

Hey man, good luck with your build, a lot of good stuff to learn on here. Im 23 so sorta young and building my first hot rod also. I can't give much good advice except take you time and think about things, for me I'll think about somethings forever before I commit to doing it, but I may change my mind until I find the right way. And remember cause and effect of what you do, and find a good order to do things in if that makes since, good luck!

 

Here some pics how I have built my customers 1929 A-ford Tudor.
- First I remove Banger, mechanical brakes, orig. front axle etc.
- Next I weld boxing plates and changed axle to 1932 Heavy model. Wishbones are new production splitted, new posies style HD spring, new production 1932 ford style K-member with 1932 pedals, 1940 maincylinder,...
- I left there Original rear axle and driveshaft.
- New hardplywood floorpanels.
- New steering column, banjo wheel, vega, borgeson u-joints etc.
- Little more space to firewall and own production lakesters, 1932 grill and shell, own style headlight bar etc.
- 1940 brakes all over.

maybe 300hours total. Next week I leave car to its owner. He needs to install carpet, seats, wirings,.... and some more small easy jobs before car is ready to enjoy on the road after winter.

AULIS
Finland

 

Couple of things...if building using all Ford stuff and stock rear, you simply want engine on same axis as the Model A engine. In back you want the torque tube connection at the height of the model A one, in front you want center of crank pulley in line with the bearing for the hand crank atop the Model A U bolts. This puts engine right where God told Henry to put it.
On the 8BA, that engine is inherently longer than 59 shown in book whether you use full original pulleys or go to a single row because the (very bad) 8BA distributor forces the belts to be farther from block. If you have a ready to run engine, you are limited here, but if you need to rebuild use a 59A type camshaft, then you can go to the (very good) early flat distributor, early pumps, and single row setup shown it the book...your engine will be same in front as an early engine. The early stuff swaps need only minor fiddling, and you can go as far as you want converting engine to 59 parts for more of a hotrod look.
Note that the stock rear is your basic locator here, dictating where you put mounts and so on.
Suggestion...grab a may 1954 Hot Rod Magazine. Full swap and build of an A-V8, using a late motor, very like the good book you have but with some alternatives too. Next issue finishes the swap, but rally everything you need is in April.

 

few pics more.

As You see, all goes between frame and under floor.


aulis

 

I'm putting same motor on my 29. Not sure what transmission your using but I put a 39 three speed on mine. I'm also using an f1 crossmember for my build. Had to cut my center cross member a bit for my torque tube in order to have some clearance. Bolted everything up to determine where my motor mounts would be. Pretty easy to do but I also used 34 split wishbones to avoid oil pan clearance.

 

Here's an update on my build with the 8ba flathead guys.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Sounds great. Great work.