My 8BA starting using water and getting hot last week. I pulled the heads and this is what I found. Is this a normal place to crack. Engine runs great and I can't tell that these "cracks" go into the valve seats. Every other flathead I have seen was cracked from the valve seat to the cylinder. Any advise? Thanks, Jim
a crack like that shouldn't be a problem unless it's going into the exhaust p***age. are you using sealant on your head bolts?
I had sealant on my head studs. I am running aftermarket aluminum heads. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Did you check bolt torque before you took them off? I have aluminum heads that have leaked a little. I've had to retorque mine a couple times. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I did not retorque heads for a while. Never used water before. Are the horizontal looking cracks between intake valves not serious? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
From the pics it almost doesn't look like they're cracks. Looks like a bit of a rough block surface. Have you considered trying a new set of good gaskets? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have a full new set of gaskets but don't want to waste my time if they are cracks. I would love to just have to change gaskets but that seems to good to be true Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I'm trying to decide if I should put the engine back together and run it or pull it. Any flathead experts got ideas on the 3 horizontal cracks? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
When the picture is enlarged, they dont appear to be cracks or if they are, very short ones. I dunno, Maybe they look bigger when they expand under heat, but dang, those dont look bad at all. I would check heads for straightness and make sure to check the torque after installation and driven for a while. Real world, maybe a pressure test is needed, but I would probably re-install with fresh gaskets and see how it does after fresh install, and then a week or two later if it arises again, it may indicate stud torque needs checking. The deck looks like someone straightened it using a co**** hand file and a few beers.
Haha, the deck does look like it was done with a file. When I bought the engine it was a 0.060 over older rebuilt running engine out of a pick up. I don't have any other history on it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hard to say from pics, but if you mean the lines between the valve pockets, they don't look like cracks. Strange way to crack as well.... If it was using water, find the cylinder that's way cleaner than the rest and look for problems there.
didn't look like cracking between the valves to me either. i did see ones running from bolt holes, and i think most of 'em crack like that with no ill affect.
Try new composition gaskets. Use something like Permatex aviation sealer on the standard end of the stud. Re-torque as many times as it takes. might take 5 or 6 times to account for the stretch and so forth. The "cracks" look insignificant. Also lightly lube the fine thread and washer on top of the aluminum heads. Lots of reasons for the "flattie" to run hot, often times it starts with a block partially full of debris.
Thanks for the info. I understand there is a lot of reasons a flathead can run hot, my main concern is why was it using water? Thanks, Jim Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
if there were no leaks etc, it may be using water via a cylinder burning it, look for the cleanest cylinder, inspect the gasket very closely and look for signs of the path. I agree with the above post with the new "thicker" gasket and proper torque sequence and recheck torque after the first run and so on.
What are the new "thicker" gaskets? I put the engine back together the other night with new felpro gaskets and I sprayed them with copper seal. I also cleaned every stud and coated the studs with permatex thread sealer where they screw into the block. Head surfaces looked very nice and true. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Pressure test or magnaflux. It's hard enough to find cracks in person, not to mention through internet photos.
So now that it's together, can you test for combustion gases in the cooling system with the fluid that turns colour? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I figured for the price of a set of head gaskets it was worth a shot. If it still uses water its coming out. I have been driving the car almost a year with no issues so I thought I would give the gasket a try. The top of the number 4 piston did seem cleaner than all the rest. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The old homesteader method for crack checking is to brush on a few coats of diesel several minutes apart, then let it sit a while to soak in good. Small parts can be dipped. Wipe your surface very dry with an absorbent rag.... t-shirt or towel. Then dust it with corn starch. If you have a crack, the diesel will have soaked in some and the corn starch will draw it back out making the corn starch wet where the crack is. Mixing a little carboned up used diesel engine oil in with your crack check diesel before you brush it on will make it show more on your corn starch.
just had my 51 Ford out to day (mid 70's) 8 ba flathead... just wondering if I have a bad temp sensor or what... The car sat for about 4 weeks , since that last time I drove it...the battery was pretty weak...pulled the battery and charged it. It has the new- style Dennis Carpenter water pumps(installed awhile back). I let the car idle while talking with some friend for a few minutes and came back to see the temp gauge reading HOT... Got in and started driving and the temp went down( also turned on the heater) got back to my garage and took the radiator cap off slowly with out much pressure..just baffled is would start running hot from siting...rad cap didn't seem very hot ...going to check the radiator level again tomorrow night,,, Radiator was cleaned out, new stats... wondering if maybe a thermostat stuck closed from sitting ????
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