It's like spinning that big Ole wheel on the Price is Right. Sometimes you hit the jack pot but sometimes.... I would much prefer the OEM brass radiator. If it can be properly renewed for $800, I would strongly consider it. Aluminum radiators can be....Pot-Luck. Do a search. Whatever you do...Do not go cheap. Do a Compression Check!!!!
The new radiator could probably stand a 20+ psi cap but it’s the rest of the system that should dictate the rating you should use now. Originally the coolant was left low in the tank for expansion and no pressure cap was used. Even up to the mid 50’s a 7 psi was factory. I only raised mine to 13 psi after a heater core change. I would run 7 psi and 160 thermostats and make sure there is flow to be seen in the tank after 160* is reached at an idle. If temperature creeps up at intersections and stop/go traffic it had to get it back down.
I have used the champion 3-row in about three shoebox Fords. One flat head one small block Ford and one 350 Chevy and they all worked good I would use them again
Thank you so much guys, I went with a champion 3 row. Seems to have good reviews all around and the price was reasonable. I also went ahead and bought a 7lb cap just to be on the safe side. You guys are awesome, really appreciate all of your help.
Make sure that you come back and let us know how this all turns out for you. A lot of times, when someone is able to solve a problem, they just go on their way. It's always good to know what worked and what didn't. I, for one would like to know how the aluminum radiator works out. Most of the reports from the guys that actually use them are positive, but there are a lot of "Doubting Thomas's" out there who seem to have a built in prejudice against them.
Oh I'll definitely come back and let you all know how everything turned out. I should receive the parts Friday and will have everything installed and tested by the end of the weekend. This thing has been sitting for too long, I need to go for a cruise already!
CONGRATS on your radiator decision. Now you will run cool. Be sure to not mix different kinds of antifreeze when you fill it. When the DEXCOOL antifreeeze first appeared, it would turn to jello when mixed with the green stuff (ethylene glycol). Also, get some Ph strips to periodically check the Ph of your coolant. Also add NoRosion . Open this and scroll down for good reading: https://www.google.com/search?q=dex...30j0i390l4.12041j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 and https://www.no-rosion.com/tech_coolant.htm
Hey guys, Wanted to give you all an update. After installing all the new parts the car is running like a dream! I took it out this morning and ran it for about an hour and it never got over 180. I am super stoked to finally be able to cruise it after dealing with all this mess. Thank you all so much for sharing your wisdom and experience with me, I am so grateful to have found this community. Here is what I did in case anyone is curious or runs into a similar situation: Parts Purchased: Champion 3 row aluminum radiator https://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Coo...CUSTOM&submodel=BASE&engine=V8+(+3.9L+/+239+) 160 degree Thermostats https://shoebox-central.com/1949-1950-1951-1952-1953-ford-flathead-v8-160-degree-thermostat Water Necks https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1949-53-Flathead-Stock-Angle-Water-Neck,7313.html I followed the steps in the shoebox-central thermostat youtube video, drilling 3/16 holes at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions on both thermostats. I installed them using some napa auto parts gaskets and let them set for a day. I removed the temperature sending units I had previously installed from both sides and with a narrow funnel, poured about 10 quarts of coolant into the heads (until they started overflowing). I replaced the temperature sending units then filled the radiator with another 11 quarts of coolant (until coolant was about an inch below the radiator cap) and covered it with a 7lb radiator cap. I let everything sit overnight and checked for leaks in the morning. Everything ensuring I had no leaks I started it up with the cap on and took it out for a cruise. Today it was around 65 when I left the house. It took about 25 minutes for it to even get up to 160 degrees while driving. I noticed the thermostats open up at about 180 because it cooled down significantly back to around 160. I continued driving for a little over an hour, getting on the highway and then getting into neighborhoods where I could do some stop n go. Both SW mechanical gauges never went over 180 through the duration of the drive. I checked both gauges before installing them in some boiling water against a digital thermometer, they were accurate. I waited for the car to cool and checked the coolant levels and they didn't change by much so I left it as is. Overall, couldn't be happier! The radiator never spat any coolant out and there were no leaks even after the drive. Cant thank you guys enough!
Well there are lots of suggestions here that you need to do . The engine is older and there is alot more going on in the engine now than 40-60 years ago . The blow-by issue is another old engine symptom it is normal for older engines if it ain't glurping a quart of oil every 500 miles then keep the engine in the car till then of course . I learned from Roseville Carl how to clean out a blocks coolant system with a 1/4 " stainless steel rod I make them about 30 " long . I do this with engine block out and bare but in the car you can make a real difference also I would disconnect the lower radiator hose and start with the garden hose with a good nozzle really shoot a jet stream in there maybe a wand will work I don't know just try something here to break up all the flakes inside believe me there is going to be 3/4 lb of rust crud in the bottom of the cooling jackets so after you bust that all loose take the stainless rod and go fishing in the water jacket then clear it out again with the hose and do that process over and over in a far away corner cause of the mess and make sure you got a full cooler and a working radio and enjoy next Saturday afternoon in the back of the backyard
Glad it all worked out for you. Only thing I have to offer is that if it was mine I'd ditch the tiny helmet air cleaner and go with something a tad bit big bigger. This is what I'm running on my stock 8ba with EAB heads. But that's JMO.
I believe it is off a Chevy 6 banger but not positive. IIRC there is/was someone who was making similar ones. There was a posting here about them, I think by Buba.
Put stainless steel washers with 1/2 in hole instead of thermostats, retorque the heads when warm to 65 / 70 foot pounds, ditch the heater it might be leaking, put a 6 to 8 lb radiator cap.
This is the info on the air cleaners I was referring to: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/grace-co-air-cleaners.1039241/
Sounds like you have this handled. I never liked the idea of washers instead of thermostats anyway, and a heater can be nice to have on a chilly night.
DO NOT install stainless washers instead of thermostats as they create cavitation which inhibits cooling due to the air bubbles created. Read all about it here: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22047&showall=1 and here https://www.google.com/search?q=use+flat+washers+instead+of+thermostats&oq=use+flat+washers+instead+of+thermostats&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160l2.10264j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Nice car , glad you got it back on the road. All the advice above was well meaning, and has no doubt worked for somebody in the past, but if its not broke....Hope you get many smiles to the gallon. Good Luck.
Not planning on it, everything is working now... not sure I would do it even if things weren't, seems like a very strange solution.
The Jalopy Journal
