The rear main in my '51 Ford sedan is puking all over my trans. The trans is out of the car right now, so I figured I should probably change it at this time. Can someone give me some basic instructions of how to change that seal once I get the pan popped off? I really would like to do this only one time and do it right. Oh, its the wonderful rope type seal, which I hear you have to trim to length?? Help! Thanks!
Try this link for some good info on the subject. The last entry gives a detailed explantion on how to install the rope seal. http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/mainseal.htm
392, thanks for the link, that is a huge help. This is gonna sound stupid, but I have to fully remove the crank to get to the seal holder on the other side out? This is sounding like it could totally***** trying to do under the car with the motor still in. Would it be better to just yank the entire motor and put it on the stand?
51 - You may want to call Red's Headers (see link below) or someone and see if there's a way to do the upper seal without dropping the crank. I don't see any way that's possible, but I may be wrong. Doing it on a stand would be a lot easier than in the car, unless maybe you have a lift. I guess it comes down to how much trouble it is to disconnect everything and pull it out. Red's has some info on rear main seals. Here's the link: http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red_s_engine_talk_6.htm. This site has a lot of good exploded parts drawings, including the crank, seal, etc.****embly: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_drawings_engines.htm
BTTT, anyone else had the (dis)pleasure of having to do this? Hoping someone out there has a quick and dirty way to swap out this rear main with the engine still in the car.
there is another way , you can use a tool called a sneeky pete , it can be bought as a set comes with a little corkscrew lookin thing that you thread into the upper seal, then pull as you rotate the crank in the same direction, insert the other tool a little cable thing that you fish through the upper seal area and hook the rope seal to and drag it through as you rotate the crank again ,works pretty good . they also make a new silicone type seal that you can use to replace the old rope seal, Larrys T birds sells them for Y blocks , they are the same as a flathead .
Its not hard to change. I did one in my dads 40. The upper half of the seal is in a holder that rolls out after you have the cap off. Hardest part was getting the pan off and on. Had to drop the wish bone at the x member. Do you got room in a 51 to drop the pan?
296, I do have access to the pan, so that should not be too hard to deal with. The Sneaky Pete sounds like the way to go. Thanks a bunch for the advice guys!
I don't believe you need the Sneaky Pete device--that rope seal is in a die cast crescent that can be pushed and rotated out. Go here: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Engine_crankshaftassy_1949to53.jpg Look at part #6335. Push up on one end and it should rotate out of its home.
[ QUOTE ] .......they also make a new silicone type seal that you can use to replace the old rope seal, Larrys T birds sells them for Y blocks , they are the same as a flathead . [/ QUOTE ] Does Larry's "T" Birds have a web site??
Yea, he has a website. http://www.larrystbird.com/. Looks like good place for tbird stuff, though I didnt see the sneaky pete tool on it, but I know its available almost everywhere.
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